bushbasher

about 1 in 20-30 cars here is a subaru, subaru put a dealership out here in the early 80's, and it was one of the few dealerships around. The majority here are 2wd ea82 wagons and sedans, then theres the outbacks and foresters, then 4x4 ea82's. Theres a high humber of turbowagons around, but hardly any ea81's, a few imprezas/wrx's, and NO bajas.

if you want to do cable, you would have to do some work to the rear drums/discs, you would have to rework the e-brake lever, and route cables. The brakes would be the hard part. To do it through the main brake system you would have to conver the brake system to be on seperate front/rear circuits, instead of dual diagonal, which is a matter of rerouting brake lines. Then, you could add a clutch cylinder or small master cylinder into the rear circuit, to be actuated by the handbrake lever. This will give you better slide control, with less effort to lock up the wheels, which I'm sure you would be very keen on

my dad's 85 honda accord has almost 400k km on it, on country roads (and trips over the rockies), and it still runs like a top. It's because every time he changes the oil it is still amber. Carbon is what wears out everything (and what makes your oil black), and it comes from inefficient burning (just like black smoke, too rich). If your engine burns ideally, it will last almost forever. By the way the honda has never seen anything but the cheapest oil on the shelf. I think that other factors are what are going to change how long your engine lasts, not the oil brand or type. People just focus on it because it such an easy thing to do to your car, much easier than diagnostic testing and fine tuning of carbs and injection systems. Carbon is a major reason why japanese engines last much longer than american engines, as they are far more efficient burning.

I must be the only subaru owner without an oil leak. On the other hand, I'm probably the only subaru owner with surface rust on the oil pan.

so the datsun/nissan diff has the same splines, similar, what? I never paid much attention to previous discussions. oh, and using 930 cv's our axles could be stronger than the average solid axle. I don't plan on doing any work on strengthening my drivetrain until I see my driving style breaking what's there already. I didn't manage to break anything on a 300+k subaru turbowagon, and I was a leadfoot (high rpm n to d slams), primarily in a very rocky/steep environment.

is there a good place I can host pics from. I've got an mspaint-cad drawing I'd like to share.

ive heard of xt's and xt6's on nitrous, so I suppose it could be done on an ea81/82. I don't know about running higher boost with nitrous, that sounds like trouble.

There is no reason why one can't get 8 inches of suspension travel on each wheel with the stock axles. The stock rear can handle 8" travel at the shock, if you have enough lift to allow the axles to go up as much as they can go down. I took some rough measurements. With my planned 6" of lift I am making 12" travel coilovers for the back (with a strap to keep the suspension from going too far down) In the front, With the extra 6" of space in the front I could get maybe an extra 3" with a telescopic strut block. I was also thinking of how I could make a-arms acting on the top of the strut, mounted to bars bolted across the strut towers, which could give me a full 6" more travel if there is room for the axles to go up. I just hope that my car will be road-drivable enough to get to school and back!

that was a junyard find? what kind of yards you got down there anyway? :eh:

man it's the most hilarious thing... my friend has a monstrous jeep with little exhaust and 37" krawlers, and he put a loudspeaker hooked up to a cb mic. Anyways, he plays this cd that has 1 song on it, it's that "move, bitch" song by Ludacris (i think). Anyways, he sticks the mic to the speaker on his stereo, revs his engine, and everybody will pull over for him. This loudspeaker is great for pranks, and he can vent his roadrage, and the other guy actually hears him. Just the other day we pulled the move, B*** thing on a little lowered honda with some kid in a car full of girls, god it was funny. He pulled over fast. Hopefully I will be able to have the same effect in the subaru... :eh:

I had a brake line burst on my subaru the other day, while doing some stock 4x4ing. Anyways, I decided to drive to the top of my property (mountain side) without full brakes, as in 4x4 I can use the e-brake for low speed stopping and holding. So I'm at the top of this little trail, and I roll backwards after stalling and not getting on the ebrake soon enough, and wedge myself against a log. The car is stuck, so i try airing down, and it makes some difference but not enough. I try and try, shoveling etc. Then it hits me. I've got only one diagonal of braking, and that diagonal puts the brakes on only the spinning wheels!!! So sure enough I put the brakes on and the gas and it flies out as if locked front and rear!! Subaru thinks of everything!!!

I repeat... NO LOCKERS. You can weld it or search the boneyards for an lsd. That's it. There so far is not enough of a market for things like lockers or lower range gear sets, r&p's etc.

did they think you were cracking a joke or that you were pretty much clueless?

all lsd's are 3.7 I think, so to put an lsd in any manual dual range car you must swap out the 3.7s and put in the 3.9s from your old open diff. There is a tutorial in the USRM.

it would matter if you only had 2500 good rpms to play with if you had the same gearing as a gasoline car. If you change the gearing, the torque is converted to rpm, and you can get the same acceleration through a gear, and the same speed range. The engine rpm will just increase less per speed increase. And reoff, though your points are good, I don't see how burning biodiesel could be beneficial to air quality. It's not like it sucks in pollution and spits out air. Any spent fuel ejected into the air is bad, because good air means it has nothing in it.

I'm sure the bushing is the same as any 4wd ea81 or ea82. Ask for a bushing for an early 90's loyale, maybe that will help. BTW on mine it's the one round bushing hanging the front of the diff up.

And I'd like to know how a magnet affects fuel when fuel is not magnetic?

I noticed on my car the bushing is gone too, and same on almost every 4wd sube at the yard I was at. Try getting someone to look underneath the car while you start and stop. I noticed my dead bushing while hanging out the door, looking under the car at a rock I was stuck on I guess you could do that too, if you're still young and flexible

convert to a vw gas fired heater! Garanteed to keep you warm with the windows down!

sounds a bit scary to me.

a rod knock will happen generally when you are hovering at an rpm or changing from acceleration to decelerationg. If it does it under hard acceleration it could be something else, but still could be I suppose. If you have cheap low grade gas in it, it could be pinging. Mine does that when it's cold right now. It's kind of tinny noise, whereas a rod knock is more solid sounding, and louder. Once it's warmed up a bit it is completely gone no matter how much gas I give it or what rpm.

a pair of 120 watt rms RFT home theatre cabinets, higher quality speakers in the doors, and a 52x4 watt xplod is all I'm putting in mine. I like rock and stuff, no rap, so I don't "need" huge subs. The 8" subs in the cabinets are enough to make your stomach rattle inside the car. I just gotta figure out how to mount the cabinets inside, and how to fit the stereo in that stupid shallow hole.

I like, I like

Today I got a new rust-free dent free, front fender, hood, complete hatch, and rear suspension mounts for 100 cdn! All that is left now is to cut the rear wheelarches and weld some new arches in. Then all rust is gone!! Actually I will do the rear fenders after I see how much I'll need to cut to use my 9" rear coilovers I saw an rx, but alas, no lsd, ft4wd tranny, or turbo setup left. And the body kit was banged up from the forklift :boohoo:

If this is a common problem, I think thise writeup would fit nicely in the body & interior category.