bushbasher

the lift and tires are still worth money, don't chuck them!

A stock ea71 isn't going to be overcarbbed with 2 ea82's on it. I'd go the weber route then you don't have to deal with crabby sube carbs, and you won't have to worry about keeping them in sync or anything.

I still did plenty of off-roading in my 6" lifted single range turbowagon, you can still get over obstacles like logs/rocks better, better in mud, sand, and fit bigger, better, more aggresive tires. Not all off-roading is climbing. The one argument I have is the huge overhangs that the outbacks have, you'd need a lot of lift to overcome that. To me 6" is what it takes to make the comparatively small overhangs on a ea82 wagon bearable. But basically there are the scorpion lifts from aus. , or you make your own or get someone like mudrat to fab one. He'd have to have an outback/legacy to work from though. There are aggressive tires for 16" rims, what height do your current tires measure?

yes the dual range is built in internally to the 5spd, there is no way to fit it to an automatic, it doesn't bolt on the end like normal transfer cases. There are also no dual range automatic boxes produced either, so if you want dual range you are stuck with a manual. Like Dr. RX said, you can swap a manual dual range transmission into an automatic car if you put in the pedal assembly and other bits to match.

I have some 14" 6 lug wheels. Only about 3/4" more offset than stock, in 8-spoke, with a center hole that fits subaru. I believe they are off of an earlier datsun/nissan pickup.

I look in gallery but see no photos.

I noticed that fuel pump cycling thing, didn't see the connection to the connection, and haven't checked if disconnecting made a difference. The check engine light flashes when disconnected, but the engine runs better!

head gasket letting oil leak into the cylinders? Did you pull the pistons to look at the rings? Inspect inside the ring grooves? Pull plugs to see if it is a specific cylinder burning oil.

pull the carpets and get them dry. You may have to remove the fuzzy insulation underneath, as that takes forever to dry. My carpets are plastic on the bottom, so whatever is under the carpet won't dry unless I pull them. Yours might be too. That's the only way unless you like mold and rust.

Go find the largest horn you can!!

no idea, everything I get comes from the junkyard.

my guess would be something emissions/vacuum related sucking oil into the intake

if the bushings are gone then your engine can knock back and forth. If you get someone to engage the clutch in gear while the e-brake is up, as if trying to move, with the hood up you should be able to see if it has too much play.

my wagon has no skidplate, is this stock or was it removed? I've already put a dent in the oilpan. oh well, It won't work with the lift, and my oil pan is rusty anyways (I bet many of you have not seen a rusty subaru oil pan before )

what does it do exactly?

most likely something bent. If you want yor car to run straight again, likely you'll want to replace the strut and hub. If you notice that your brakes pulse or vibrate then your spindle/axle could be bent too. Get an alignment after you replace the struts/hubs, and see where it goes from there. btw your lucky man... I was behind a girl in a hyundai who passed out and went head on into a bus at 60mph

I think I got rid of it when I drained the rad to pull the fan thermoswitch. (I did put the water back in )

is it the one by the firewall? I just pulled this one and noticed the revs increased, and now the car doesn't sputter when I step on it from idle! But the check engine light flashes??

u-joints in the driveshaft (4wd?)?

If your back end is actually that light, you'd want to go with something with a light shock rating. or you will have too much shock absorbtion. Rancho's would be overkill. Are you using the same torsion rods? then that would be way to stiff too. Maybe you should convert to coilovers from an ea82 and put a lighter spring in. Then you get the shock absorber with it.

same deal with the 4wd tranny. You just have to keep the ea82 pressure plate mated with the ea81 clutch disk or something along those lines.

ea82 bolts up to ea81 tranny, but there will be very little clearance in the front as the ea82 motors are wider. You may also have to deal with moving the radiator. Also there is the wiring of the computer and fuel injection, and all the vacuum hoses etc. With some work and some money you can get 110-120 out of your ea81 motor. Put a weber 32/36, an exhaust, and ea82 pistons and you're getting close. You can get a cam regrind too. And you'll still have a nice and simple engine.

The only reason I don't want a switch in the dash is because I might leave it off and forget it, or if someone else drives it he or SHE won't remember about it even if I repeat it over and over.

just wired the fan to be on whenever the engine/ignition is on. It gets up to 1/2 quickly and stays there. It rarely goes below freezing here, so it should still be able to heat up in the winter. It also keeps me from ever leaving the ignition on, because I can hear it. There is an override switch in the engine compartment now.

on vw rear suspension it is done by pulling out the torsion rod and rotating it a spline or 2. I've never played with ea81 ea71 before so I'm just guessing that could be how you could do it.