bushbasher

I agree that the you should go down to a 16, and get a bit more sidewall, keep it low profile, but just a bit more meat there. Also maybe go for some wheels with thicker spokes. I'm sounding kind of critical but really I too agree that you've done a beautiful job.

guess I'm wrong then. Figured you'd want to keep the road drivability without pulling axles. But yeah welded's the way to go. Did you bust your welded diff? BTW sorry to hijack, but I doubt it's gonna spin off into another topic (lsd vs. welded maybe )

When accelerating or revving the engine, I hear a gushing water type noise, very audibly through the dash, or maybe firewall. Is this the heater core, or air in the cooling system? I'm confused as my engine's cooling system is doing funny things and this seems to be one of it's oddities. I can hear it from the engine bay as well, but not as loud. My t-wagon never did this.

Oh I think I get it now, the thermostat is actually a switch itself, not a varying resistance deal? If that is so then I should definitely be getting 12v to the switch, but I am not. Still need help!!

I had my car almost in the red, with no go for the fan. Shouldn't the sensor be recieving more than .2v? shouldn't it be 12v?

it is not high current at all, it isn't even going to drain your battery in any appreciable amount, it isn't going to hurt your car in any way. There are two types of this kind of rust protection: sacrificial, and electrical. Both do the same thing, and the sacrificial method is used almost universally in boats. Sacrificial is when you have a piece of zinc on the bottom of your boat, which corrodes instead of the aluminum of the outboard or hull, because it is more reactive. The zinc can only protect the metal that is in contact through water, but rust usually happens when the metal is wet anyways. This product sounds like a combination of sacrificial and electrical methods. The theory works, and if the product is built correctly it will work too. The problem is that there's almost no way to really tell if it's working until you wait for years. Then you also don't know how bad it would have been if you hadn't bought it. If you remember grade 11-12 chem you should understand how this works. If you do then I could go into valence electrons, ions, charges etc. Obviously it won't cure rust, but it will greatly slow it from spreading.

qmud

Rusting is a chemical reaction, meaning electrons are being transferred between the atoms. This supposedly puts a charge on the body of the car, so that the charged atoms (ions) become stable (not + or -) and the reaction will not take place. I am not quite sure whether the principle or the product works, but apparently people driving their cars on the beach in the salt water have used them successfully.

wow deja vu!

I can't figure out why my electric fan is not turning on. First, I found that the temperature sensor in the rad had a wire broken off, so I soldered it back on. Now it reads around 20m ohms when the car is at 1/2 heat. I put a voltmeter to the wires to the sensor, and they recieve 0.2v, and when the car is off 0 volts. The fan also works fine itself. What reads the sensor, is it the computer, or just some relay type thing? All my fuses are good, but since that wire came off it could have shorted on something, and damaged whatever reads the sensor. Any ideas?

LSD LSD LSD LSD LSD LSD LSD LSD LSD LSD LSD LSD LSD LSD LSD LSD LSD LSD LSD LSD LSD LSD LSD LSD Just cause I know you wouldn't want to weld it.

i haven't transferred my title yet, but it's not on the road, I will do it before I insure it. Just haven't gotten around to it, and it's cost me money in the past, and I don't have any money that I want to get rid of right now

how can your axles handle being 3" lower than stock when fully extended? With my eyeballing the doj would hit max travel before 3"farther down on an ea82 wagon. I heard something about using outers on the inside, to get more angle... :cornfuzz:

I'm confused, when someone regrinds your cam, do they actually just grind off metal? or do they make a new cam. I don't see how grinding an existing cam can make the lift higher.

the ea82 turbo is an rhb5 isn't it?

I don't think the axles would have any problem being pulled out a little, It takes a good amount of power to snap those axles, and they are meant to pull in and out as the suspension moves. wouldn't it take more than 5mm to have much effect though?

make space in the back and route an rv battery!

you could probably have it repaired, unless that fencepost was really sturdy.

if your newly installed parts show wear too, I would swap out the whole front suspension, crossmember, struts, axles and all. I dunno if the axles are the same between 2wd turbo and 4wd na though. It sounds to me like you are running xt axles in a wagon strut/hub or maybe vice versa, and that may be causing problems. On that turbo motor, you can get quite a bit of horsepower just by increasing the boost, and adding an intercooler. With increased boost, an intercooler, custom turbo exhaust etc you could have 160hp, possibly alot more. There are several members getting at least this from their motors.

the 2wd xt suspension will bring your car down to the right ride height. With the struts you've got on there, the steering arms may be angled down, which could cause the wheels to be toed in. I'm not sure about what problems this will cause, but may only be part of the problem with the handling. Don't have a clue what's wrong with your axles, are you sure you installed them correctly? perhaps the outside axle stubs are not pulled through the hub all the way, and are slowly making their way out? Did you put the bearings in right, are they still good? Maybe control arm bushings/ball-joints? As for the engine, you shouldn't have to do much in the way of computer or wiring work, they use the same computers and harness. you will have to swap crossmembers, as the turbo crossmember has room for the turbo exhaust.

a standard ea82 rear coilover has around 5.5/6" of travel at the shock, so somewhere around. If you let the suspension travel up (from the point were the axle is horizontal) as much as it normally travels down, I measured a 8" shock possible.

You might have to put a different rear diff in, as I don't know if the justy has the same final drive ratio (3.70 or 3.90 are the ones found in ea series cars.

the thing that REALLY changes were the ideal rpm is is the cam. The heads also affect it, but they are higher flow, so they will be much better than stock until you get to that rpm where they are really really better than stock.

I remember that there was/is such a car, no pics though. Also a justy with hp in the high 100's from the 1.2l, but apparently it required some serious work. by custom engine bay I mean that basically all the surrounding sheetmetal is useless, it is meant to fit around a transverse motor. You'd also have to find a new home for the rad. Basically you'd be doing a whole custom front end out of tubing, and mounting the body panels like a skin onto the tubes. It might be better to put the ea81 in there, it is not as wide, and no computer issues. Plane the heads and put 1600 pistons in, then put a weber and an exhaust on. I would want a full-time 4wd box cause wheelspin would be crazy in 2wd, and because there would be less stress on each axle.

Alot of work but probably worth it in the end. There is another who has successfully put an ea82 in a justy. You'll probably have to make a completely custom engine bay and subframe, the axles will need adapting, probably more. But imagine this: 5spd dual range 4wd in a justy with 100hp! Anybody know what the justy axles/rear diff/hubs can stand?