bushbasher

If you punch it with the spfi it will hesitate for maybe a second and then rev up, it will also hesitate slightly at low rpm under load. The check engine light flashes. However there is a green connector in the engine bay right in the top corner by the strut, which stops the check engine light, but causes the engine to hesitate a bit more severely, and idle a bit lower. Any ideas?

with batteries you get a higher unloaded voltage, but it drops when under load. A good battery will always be a bit higher than it's number. eg a brand new 1.5v aa battery will be about 1.6v when not under load (tested with a multimeter) all batteries do this to my knowledge, though probably to different extents, and the amount is proportional to the size of the battery. When you put a load on them they will drop down closer to the normal voltage. same principle actually applies to any power source, alternator or switching power supply etc.

wider is better really only applies to heat buildup. On pavement or rocks wider can be better because more surface area means more capacity to take heat before they burn. On the dirt it doesn't matter much because you have the same amount of weight pushing on the ground, just a higher pressure contact area. For snow or water thin is best because you don't have to push as much water or snow out of the way, and you will sink to hard ground faster.

wow that brat sounds like quite a project (@RGAFF'S)

In the front the first thing you run into is the strut. You only have what 5" of travel on each strut? cv axle limitations. The axle hits the inner control arm mount after you go about 2" down past stock full droop ( you could move the mounts inward with custom control arms and fix this), but there is more uptravel room, even more after you body lift it. In the back, the shock absorber limits the suspension travel, but if you go more than 3" or so below the stock droop, your axles hit max angle. With stock axles I could see about 8-10" at each wheel max. Also at these limits the axles would be alot weaker too, and we already have a weak axle problem. There is the rguyver mod which puts the sliding cups at both ends of the rear axle, giving you the potential for a few more inches of travel. For traction during crawling I think uptravel would make as much a difference as downtravel. If I could get more stuf***e I think that would be good, because you still have weight on that stuffed wheel, and less weight will be taken off of the drooping wheel. Basically when your wheel is near the max of downtravel, it wont offer you much traction anyway cause theres hardly any weight on it. edit: why did it censor s.t.u.f.f.a.g.e.?Oh wait now I get it :brolleye:

set the mazda straight with a backhoe and a railroad tie

yah yah people were buggin me to get off the comp.

no easy replacement of rear fender, it's part of the unibody, welded in. The only way to replace rusty metal is to weld in patches.

subaru3 what do you need it for, your cars are MINT!

sounds like something gooey on the bushing for the needle, as inside the speedo there is a device which is like a spinning magnet type thing, with a preset friction or spring thing tuned on the needle end that regulates how much it is dragged by the magnetism. oil or goo could make the needle slow to react, but still able to stay accurate. However oil or goo in the magnet mechanism can make your speedo way to fast because it will cause drag between the magnets and the metal needle pickup thingy, so I don't know how you got goo at the needle but not anywhere else. Actually I have no idea if that is how suby speedos work, but that's how most speedos work.

My seat fabric has become full of a kind of fine dusty clayish dirt, the vacuum got some of it, but does anyone else have a method of getting this stuff out? Any good products to try? It's dry and not really "ground in" so I figure it shouldn't be too much of a struggle.

imagine the amount of noise you'd get from that tire... your azz cheeks would go numb from the vibration If I were to compete in mud drags in my sube I'd go for those puppies.

hehe grass is always greener on the other side The B.C. coast is really mild, no snow and freezing cold, not much hot weather. Means I have to travel to find either :boohoo:

ya but the hard parts making the roof fit back on! The celica's homemade t-tops required a piece of vinvl riveted onto the body, which folded between the rear headliner and roof panel in the back when not in use. Before that it was duct tape and garbage bags

like when my battery dies, and I'm cussing and pounding the dashboard. I hold the key, and it slowly goes over the compression stroke, and with a slow ra-rump it starts without even turning over a full rev! Subaru quirkyness drains the battery but subaru engine starts like a charm everytime. My suby never fails to start, heck you could jump start it trying to push it uphill Also when your dual diagonal brakes fail giving you traction control when 1 front and 1 rear spin in the mud, and giving you the ability hammer the brakes midcorner and still go where you point

omg my soon to be 6" lifted wagon just has to get a turbo swap now. That pic is cool. Alan's jeep is too done up for me to outcrawl, maybe I should be mud/dirt king.

A light flywheel will make for slightly better acceleration once you are moving. A heavier flywheel will make it easier to start from a stop without stalling, but will slow your aceleration a bit once you are moving. Subaru flywheels are heavy enough for alot of weight to be removed before you really have to worry about stalling though. The only time a flywheel takes energy is when accelerating (or deccelerating). Remember force=mass x acceleration, so the lighter the flywheel, the faster the acceleration of the flywheel. So if your car is slow, you are accelerating the flywheel at a slow rate, therefore the flywheel is using less energy. If your car accelerates fast, you are accelerating the flywheel faster and it is using more power. So on a 15sec to 60 car a light flywheel wont mean much, but on a 4 sec car it will matter alot. This is saying that the slow car is slow because of bad power to weight, with a percentage being used on the flywheel, not because the car has a humongous flywheel and is therefore slow.

From my experience with my 4eat it didn't really matter under hardcore bushbashing, as once you do the little slippy lag thing it seems to stay in 4wd afterwards. If I slipped at the beginning then stomped on it again once moving in the mud there would be no second time lag, it would instantly spin all 4. However there would be a time lag if I took it easy to start then hammered it, I would get a lag. Does anybody know when the tcu decides to disengage the center clutch? It wouldn't do it instantly or the 4wd would stutter on gravel hills etc. Also from one position I had my car in, the front end was up in the air with one wheel in the air, with the car basically standing on the rear wheels. The one front wheel would spin, whereas the rears with the welded diff wouldn't budge. The one wheel in the air could still spin a fair amount, even though you could feel the rears trying to push the car. The tranny and wheel seemed to slip before the rears would move. Even in 50/50 mode the clutch still slips is what I'm trying to say. Oh ya and after trying to get over the obstacle like this for a few minutes, the tranny started to smoke, so I stopped

sounds to me that your problems are not with the tranny, it's with the cv, the solenoid or vacuum? 4wd engagement, and the shifter.

usually a sloppy linkage, many subarus have this problem. There are ways to solve it found in the USRM under "suspension and steering"

my car does the same thing, and so does my dad's honda, I would say nothing to worry about.

can't you just disconnect the knock sensor to see if that is the cause. I thought they were just a trigger, and only send a signal when there is knocking.

When you hook a good battery up to the car does it make any kind of spark? Check ignition parts to see if they get warm. I've had older non subaru cars that would keep putting juice into the coil when the ingition is off. If you battery is drained overnight it is likely that whatever is draining it is gonna be warm or hot. Theres a chance this could be related to your pump replacement, what did you remove to change the water pump?

don't all clutch pack lsd's just work on a preset load on friction plates? clutch pack lsds dont lock nor do they ever open I thought. In any case you could stuff increasingly stiffer springs until you find the right mix between off-road ability and making the front tires skip on the pavement when turning.

my little 4-banger rumbles. Subaru 4's can rumble, Honda 4's can't. I just took off the muffler and am running a 2" straight pipe right to the back. It has the perfect exhaust note, rumbly and bass-ey, but only loud when you punch it, and then you get a nice snarl and a 4 wheel spray of mud