bushbasher

hey dude... its not the 90s anymore Your car looks fine to me... better than mine!

accidentally pressing the horn? I think you need to be more descriptive than "goose"

yes I do know that... maybe I wasn't clear, I just tend to ramble and make wordy sentences... I was talking about making custom axles to fit the s10 diff with its different stubs, therefore eliminating the weak point of the subaru diff stubs. But, I was also saying that its not really a good idea to do that 'cause its nice having the stubs go before more expensive parts go, like axles, or the "stubs" that go through the suspension arm. Don't worry about me, I've got this pretty much figured out now, and I did do a 6" lift to an 89 turbowagon 2 years ago, which ended up ripping out (I kinda overestimated the strength of a unibody ), but it still taught me how the driveline and suspension works. Since that booty-fab/just for laughs experiment I have also learned alot from the board.

with a tcase lift you forget about the front outputs on the tranny, and run the tranny in 4wd to keep the rear output engaged. The rear output goes to a nissan t-case via a short driveshaft. Then the t-case outputs go to the rear diff, and to a rear diff thrown up front underneath the motor, attached to the dropped crossmember. This means that the tranny is always in 4hi or 4lo, and the t-case engages the front axle plus has it's own high/lo. This means that 2wd is rwd just like nissan trucks, instead of fwd like subes. I was worried at first on hearing about the use of the rear output on the tranny, but it apparently didn't break on the rubicon, and there have been 3 cars? now with this set up, with no problems. I think s10/jimmy etc diffs use or can use 930 cvs which are very strong. You would eliminate the stub problem with s10 type diffs but you'd have to make custom axles, which would be a pain to have to fix or recreate, instead of just pulling axles from yards. Without the stubs to break, the weak link will become something more expensive and more time consuming to fix. From others rates of stub destruction, the stubs break less than my friends jeep breaks ujoints and he is only just beginning to think of a bigger axle swap. Hes been breaking ujoints for years and just puts up with it.

I have to fiddle a bit, then it goes in, but when I push it feels like it goes in after it snaps past something metal. So I've stopped doing it. It sucks having to stop before going into first to climb bigger hills when 4x4ing.

Even if you have the power you're hitting stuff too fast to crawl with 31s. With the 30s that I stuck on the front of the car, 1st gear at 700rpm was running speed (in 2wd). Mud and bajain will be fine with that but trying to climb a rockface with the tires trying to go that fast is scary. You don't have much control. Even my friends jeep with 2:1, 4.10s and 35s could use slowing down. I will either do 6" lift with 27-28s (they might look kinda small on it but I need some crawlability, and the good approach angles of the 6" for my terrain) This would be easier to make and better for the road cause I can pull a rear axle to drive the welded diff on pavement. Or do the 8" nissan t-case, like rooinators but without 4.11s and a front lsd, because they are near impossible to find here. Id run 31 tires then. Harder, but way better off-road, and on road suffers cause I wont be able to pull an axle for road driving (rwd) My rear axles and tires would wear fast, and the squeal on corners would get annoying. oh hey what is the reduction of the nissan case?

I'm probably going to start the t-case lift by the end of feb. I may end up just a doing 6" lift if I can't find a nissan thatll let the case go for cheap. With a budget under 500 I can't afford to let the t-case cost too much. Got the time, place, and fab supplies, but I need to get a part-time job at least too, Ive only got a stagnant account to draw from. Im getting free 6 lug toy rims from the local tire pile (I have 3 of 4 of a generic stock pattern), lots a sets of cheap used 31" tires around I can buy, the island is full of guys upgrading from small tires. The guy that runs the yard with subies got my lifted t-wagon and got it running around at his house, thought the thing was awesome, now he gives me suby stuff for cheap or free. So I'm pretty much set except for the t-case, (unless I find it at that same yard and tell him its going in the subaru )

if you did it for ej20 and up there'd be a possibility

Rooinater pointed out to me that I'd be the first to t-case an ea82 wagon if I decide to go for it. I can't see any problems over doing it to an ea81, but maybe somebody else does?

now were talking... GD - And there is no reason that a pushrod engine could not be designed to go just as fast as any OHC - it's just a matter of buiding it. It would be more expensive, and have more moving parts - but anything is possible. Thats pretty much what I said. It is possible to go as fast as any ohc with pushrods, but it takes more work, so much that it isn't really practical once you get up past 8000rpm. Just please stop comparing an ea81 with a cam, decked heads and high comp pistons to ea82s when only a few people have even experimented with cams in ea82 cars, and haven't tried decking heads etc. I'm sure that with cams, higher compression, and a big carb thatll push more than the spfi, an ea82 would be up where qmans ea81s are. The fact is the ports on an ea81 dont flow any better than ea82s, and pushrods aren't going to give your car superior power over ohc. All that matters at normal rpms is the cam profile. It really won't make a difference unless you start playing in the upper rpm ranges, which is not what qmans ea81s are created for. He wants low rpm power for off-roading. At least this is what I have heard him say on the board, talking about torque-grind cams. If you want a good powerful 4x4ing/torquey motor go with an ea81.

i had almost the exact same idea for valves once and thought it was untried... oh well

looks good. The acceleration in low range in that justy is going to be neck breaking. that is if it is a dr

go have fun with a mig if it's all underbody rust... start welding in patches

when idling pull a plug wire... if the engine drops significantly then that cyl has good compression/ign. try it with each cylinder (replacing the wire before going to the next) If you find a cylinder where the engine does not change much... That's gonna be your bad cylinder. Then it could be no spark to that cylinder or no compression for whatever reason.

I could do that but thats whole nother heap of problems and money and time. Then Im worried about stub axles. You are running newer 4.11 diffs, what is the rear diff stub design? what do you do for front and rear cv axles? I do feel the lack of crawling ratios right now, as I have been around trucks for awhile, but figure I will always kick rump roast in mud and general baja'in, though crawling is my real love. What would a t-case, driveshafts and diffs cost me from the yard?

man that subaru 12 is a mess... thats when belts become scary. Im not sure whether f1 engines us belts or chains. They might even use overhead cams with gears... Mclaren is developing electromagnetic valves that can make their engine run over 20 000 rpm

porsche once made a quad cam flat 8 in one of their race cars that made a 1000hp, and the car was also street legal and drivable if you put better ratios in the gearbox. I saw an article on it on the speed channel oh and could somebody please show me a pushrod motor that can run 18 000 rpm and 800+ hp like a formula 1 car? And last lap after lap? I don't think so. A 7000-hp alcohol drag racing v8 means nothing about the advantage of pushrods, they do not go to outrageous rpms, nor do they last long at all. GD you keep comparing modified ea81s to stock ea82s. If you worked over an ea82 or other ohc motor you can attain much higher rpms with more reliability than you could with a pushrod ea81 or other pushrod design. There is nothing wrong with pushrods, they are fine for everything except high rpm. The amount of horsepower and torque you can make is not really related to where the cam is, but the rpm is affected, which in turn affects power, cause power is torque x rpm (with constants to account for the units) The RS23… (4 valve/cyl dohc 3 litre v10 ferrari f1 motor) Produces more than 250 bhp/litre; Revs to over 18,000 rpm; Sucks in over 600 litres of air per second at full speed; Produces 160 decibels of noise at full speed, which is more than a Boeing 747 on takeoff; Uses 75 litres of unleaded fuel per 100km; Produces 150 sparks, and completes 300 piston cycles, in one second; Accelerates the pistons at a force equivalent to 8,500G at maximum revs; Operates at temperatures in excess of 110°C; Generates surface temperatures close to 300°C; Weighs just 90kg; Includes 5,000 different components, of which 1,500 are moving parts wait thats renault.. ferrari goes to 19 000 and produces 920hp

i am a fan of the sawzall as well. Everybody tells me I shouldnt use the sawzall, but they haven't seen the light. Its way more controllable, safer (no spark showers), quieter, makes a cleaner cut to begin with, and not any slower than discs

OK I am interested now... I read your shock page before and there was no mention of that. How much more travel does it give... what model car is the strut for?

actually it increases understeer. With the front swaybar off, and one in the back it'll enjoy flicking it's tail out aggressively. Of course on the old school board the obvious method is to chuck it

yes but the difference is yours doesnt give you longer travel it just gives you additional shock absorbtion. The stock strut can only move up and down 6" due to the length of the internal shock which also happens to take the side loads of the suspension. my strut replaces the stock strut, giving me the suspension travel of a rancho shock. If I could host pictures somewhere I could show a diagram as it is tough to explain what I have in mind.

After my two finals Ive got 2-3 hrs a day at the shop every day until summer as I am on good terms with my metalwork and mechanics teacher and don't need to actually be in his class. So, the 6" body lift begins in a few weeks. I'll probably just be running some snow tires on drilled 15s from the tire pile (I have 3 of 4 wheels so far ) for the first little while. Then some custom rear coilovers will be in the making. I have an idea for the front but realistically probably won't get to it. It involves a custom lower mount that solidly mounts a rancho or similiar shock to the hub like a strut while creating a spring perch at the same time. Then the top of the rancho shaft will be modified to hold a strut top. The 6" lift will give me room to fit the rancho. This'll hopeully give me closer to ~9-10" of travel vs the stock ~6" in the front. In the rear I will probably be getting 8-9" at the shock vs the ~6. I know I can only go 2" further down in the front, and 3" in the back so ill be getting more uptravel than downtravel in the front at least. I have gotten mixed opinions on uptravel but I say any travel is better, plus when I go airborn, on landing I have 9" of travel to soak it up. I'll just have to make the springs just the right stiffness so that it is hard to get to the top of the 9". Better make a skidplate too Comments? I guess this isnt what I should be thinking about at exam time, but oh well

Eriks got a good point there. My car has 2" from the cat back with no muffler and it sounds wicked, more power at all rpms, not loud at idle but goes from a clean growl to a wild howl that'll compete with a tight v8 in coolness of sound if not speed. Even at high rpms it isn't too loud to hear the radio. With the heater fan on 3 or 4 you cant hear the motor under normal driving unless you strain your ears.

-ea82s make higher rpm easier, because of less reciprocating mass in the valvetrain. there are less parts, the camshafts are easy to get at. an ea81 with 200 hp is so loaded with aircraft parts theres no way you could compare it with a stock ea82. You could go further in an ea82 with that much money in aircraft parts. You can still get high rpm with ohv, but you need springs that are stiffer, and your valvetrain is going to wear out alot faster with that kind of stress on it, and the beefier you make the parts the more spring you need. There is a reason why modern performance engines use ohc or dohc. Also I dont see why it is such a big deal to unscrew the plastic cover and put new timing belts on every 100k km? Its well worth it to me considering I get fuel injection and a higher hp motor.

um I heard this explanation for something similiar but dont know if its right or not, but it goes like this: A weak ground causes a voltage drop, causing the lights to draw more current instead, causing the gradual fuse blowing. Or something like that. Anyway, it cant be too hard to take off the ground wires and clean em up.