bushbasher

theres no problem with honing the block. By reboring you're going into dangerous territory according to some. Some say too thin, some say it will spin the sleeves in the alum. block.

if the pipe has broken right at the flange at the muffler so that there would be nothing to bolt to on the muffler end, you can splice in a smaller pipe inside the tube and muffler and use muffler clamps (the u-bolt things) to try and hold it there, which is going to add restriction and be a possibly loose fit on the muffler or you could find another muffler, the stock one is junk anyways and it sounds like its full of crap anyways. You can get them pretty cheap, (a cherry bomb turbo muffler is like 40bucks cdn at the local place) and adapt the new one on with muffler clamps and exhaust pipe size adapters, which should be able to find at the local car parts place.

For snow, you want floatation and that means bigger tires. Your not going to win it with your pie cutters and subframes buried in the snow. go to 26-28" tires on drilled 6lug toyota rims, on a 3-4" lift. If you stay down to 3-4" all you have to deal with is making the lift blocks, the steering linkage, and maybe some shift linkage work. Rad hoses might give you a little trouble too. The bigger tires make the real difference in the snow because they give you more clearance under the diffs wereas a big bodylift wont. You could do 12" without axle work, but whats the point? You want to have more clearance for deep snow, but if the snow is actually that deep, your engine and subframes are still going to be buried because they are dropped down with a lift. You wont get very far with the front of your motor pushing through the snow.

the program is actually called desktop dyno 2000, I got it off Kazaa. It's an engine building program that gives you a virtual dyno read-out based on all sorts of info. Basically if you put the correct numbers in on a v8 build it should be within 5% or less of the actual output. For import motors its not so good, because it doesnt allow for different valvetrain designs (sohc/dohc etc) and its forced inuction modelling sucks (Lowering the cfm on the turbo will increase hp drastically to the point where your at 5cfm and you have 5000hp ) Engines don't blow up in this sim, and the gasoline never detonates so you can run a turbo on 20:1 compression for some crazy power. I tried putting one of the delta cams measurements in and the dyno program didnt like them... I'd trust delta before desktop dyno though

bump! This program is fun. I just created an ea82t with 500hp! The turbo modelling is really inaccurate, but its great at modelling cams and head designs. I also made a 6.0l lambo v12 with 1200hp and 1500lb-ft of torque With my guesstimate valve sizes and cam design a stock ea82 spfi makes 90hp at 4000 and 125lb ft of torque at 3500 which isnt too far off.

Mudrat did a 12". It ended up being called weeble wobble. With the short travel suspension of a subaru the car would be really unstable and unpredictable off road I think. This was also a t-case lifted car. Subarubrat has an 6" body/2"suspension lift. A pure 9" bodylift will look dumb because you'll be able to see the whole engine sitting under the car. The only practical reason for going over 6" is to fit a transfer case under the car, and you only need 8" for that. Theres lots of info on the t-case mods if you search.

dual range has a high and low range. The low range provides extra gear reduction in the drivetrain, giving you more power to climb obstacles and extreme grades without bogging down the engine or stalling. It also reduces your speed, making it easier to control the car to slowly navigate rocks etc without riding the clutch or rocking back and forth etc. This reduction of speed also makes it a blast to drive on tight or small dirt roads etc because of the effectively increased torque, allowing you to burnout, slide and accelerate faster, at the expense of top speed (which on narrow dirt road you don't need anyways) The 3.9:1 diff ratios also give added low end power and acceleration. A dual range 4wd has a permanently locked "center diff" which means that it cannot be driven on dry pavement in 4wd without drivetrain binding due to speed differences between front and rear axles. An rx or turbowagon full-time 4wd tranny will have a lockable center diff so that it can be driven on pavement without binding, then locked for the same traction as a dual range transmission when off-road. However rx dual range ft4wd trannys have very little reduction in low range, and also have 3.7:1 diffs. This makes them very suited to rallying and all-weather pavement driving, at the expense of 4x4ing ability. There is also the pushbutton 4wd which engages 4wd with a switch. It has no low range, and is the least versatile 4wd transmission. Works fine for snow and gravel roads, but 4wd cannot be used on dry pavement and the lack of low range makes it useless for serious off-roading. It can be destinguished by a 4wd button on the shifter. The dual range transmission has a lever on the center console beside the handbrake, which says "4wd" There will be a sticker beside the lever showing positions "fwd", "4HI", and "4LO". They are found on wagons and sedans from 1980? to 1988. My suggestion is to find an ea82 ft4wd turbowagon from 1985 on. The 1989 model is the only wagon model with a rear LSD. A GL wagon from 1987-88 with fuel injection and a dual range is probably easier to find, with a good range of options, and great versatility. Wagons from 80-85 have less options, and the less powerful but more reliable ea81 motors. They can be had with 4spd dual range transmissions.

are they in time with the crankshaft?

I'm gonna go check if my mgb oil cooler will fit up.

the hill holder operates on one circuit of the dual diagonal brakes. That means one front, and one rear on the opposite side.

I'm playing around with Desktop Dyno, and I want to test the accuracy of the program. however I need the valve sizes and cam lift, duration, timing etc in order to complete the tables. I'm using the ej25 bock as a base and changing the bore/stroke etc down to 1.8l. Right now I'm modelling an ea82 spfi motor, but turbo info or ea81 info would be great too. I've found some delta cams slips from the cams thread, so i've been getting away with that and some guestimates on valve sizes. info on the cfm of the stock fuel system would be good but I'm guessing about 250-300 right now.

hey ive never seen a sube with the rear bumpstops on, they've all fallen off up here. Weird. When you get a stiffer spring you also need to go shorter to keep the same ride height.

my guess is broken teeth on the front pinion/ring gear. If it's an auto it could be jamming itself in park or something. either way i think its the tranny. The brakes are dual diagonal so the probability that both fronts would lock up is small, plus the fact that the engine makes a difference goes against brakes. If it was just one wheel it could be a broken cv joint, but it's both wheels and its unlikely that both would go at the same time.

is that a scout?

might be easier to pull half the rear driveshaft instead if your going with a 2wd dyno.

stick the tire/rim in a vice so one jaw is in contact with the rim and the other is pushing on the tire bead on the opposite side. Works like a charm for car tires, but my vice is too small to do truck tires. Then use a tire iron and get someone else to hold crowbars or big screwdrivers in to keep the tire from coming back as you go around with the iron.

mine does the same thing as yours but it happens very intermittently. It will usually do it when I first turn it on but after going back and forth for awhile it stops. Maybe the contant strips are clean but the contacts have lost the springyness to make contact all the time.

hehe my guess would be subarus with solid axles

the reason your rx isn't very good at 2k is because of the lower compression pistons (7.7:1) WJMs got that problem solved with his 9.5:1 pistons. Make sure to invest in some 100+ octane fuel for the autox

I just finished welding new 1 7/8" (outside) tubing to my exhaust flanges at the heads. So now I have about 1ft of pipe from each head. The old stuff was 1 3/4" outside I think, so this is a bit of improvement, the bend is also less restrictive than stock. When taking off the old pipes I found that the pipe out of the cat was flattened in at the top which was causing alot of restriction as well. I've got alot more power now. It sounds very sweet past 3k and rapidly letting off the gas produces some nice poppling and backfiring. My friend Alan (the jeep owner) left in shame after he experienced a 4lo launch in the gravel. After I finish the exhaust I've got a turbo maf that I will adapt, and I will bore out the throttle body a bit too. QUESTION: How close do the stock pipes come to the steering rack cause mine are within an inch of the rack boots. I know I have to make a heatshield for that part but it still seems to close. Ooh got 5 feet of 4x2 steel today

in case you weren't kidding I meant previous owner, is there a different abreviation I'm supposed to use?

a turbowagon is basically like an rx wagon just minus the bodykit and stiffer spring rates, plus a 100 or so pounds. Same hp. Find a turbowagon with a 5spd ft4wd and you're set, or just a nice 87-94 subaru gl or loyale(if you don't mind pushbutton vs dr) with spfi

um ya I do know how long its had the fingernail sized slash, about a week now since I punctured it with a stick. Its to small to let dirt in and there is still plenty of grease left. Also I have a receipt from the PO for a new front cv on that side from about 6months ago. So no I'm not going to blow it up. Its the outer one (by the wheel) so no heat issues either. I was looking for quick remedies/ways to patch it not someone to tell me I dont know how much grease is left or how dirty it is, and that I have to buy a new one

I've got a little nick in one of my front boots, and the grease sprays out. The rest of the boot is great though. Any ideas on what to do with it? Can I patch it somehow or get a 2-piece boot repair? Any other solutions? Oh ya this is the outer boot. The shaft is still good I just punctured it with a stick 4x4ing. Theres still grease in there too.

as for maintenance, at 198k miles it could be ready to get its 3rd timing belt set if it hasnt been done yet. It will disable your car when the belt goes so it's better to replace it now. They seem to go with surprising regularity (every 75-125k miles). If it does go it's not going to do any internal damage to the engine, but it'll strand you on the side of the road. Change the oil every 3-5k miles, and don't overheat it. My bet is that It'll give you alot more than 50k. If it runs perfect at 200k I say it'll take you past 300k if you fix whatever minor problems come up in the future like the radiator/overheating problems or the cv joints etc.