bushbasher

-delete- didnt realize i posted almost the exact same thing on the previous page

as of yet I only 1/2 count... rear lift just needs one more brace welded in, and the t-case mounts are mocked up but not even tacked in yet. My sig says pretty much all of it.

Thats some cool coilover tech! If I were to go find the parts I need to make a pair, what are the exact names for the parts. Part #s would be really cool. I need to do this for the rear of the wagon. If you have access to sheetmetal facilities a justy-esque front end (with less curvature) could be made fairly easily. You should make the front end out of aluminum You are rear mounting the rad, right?

just remember bras are to protect, not look great, if you will be doing alot of highway driving, or on dirty/gravel roads, you might want to keep it. Otherwise leave it off.

Is it possible that a stock coil may start to produce weak spark at higher rpms? Ive heard this is a problem with 8 or more cylinders on a single coil. I have never seen a motor over 8 cyl without dual or independant coils. My father, who has a phd in math and a masters in physics says that this could be a problem as the frequency limit of the inductor (coil) is approached. An aftermarket coil has more windings to create a higher voltage. This would actually make the frequency limit lower, because the time required for the magnetic field to be set up, as the voltage climbs from 0 would be greater. Hence drops would be greater at high rpms. But on a 4 cylinder, I don't think this would be as relevant, because there are less fires/sec for the coil to deal with. Just another point to analyze, another angle to look at this subject from.

you can put larger rims/tires on your wagon unlifted, I think once you go past 25" you need a bit of fender trimming etc. If your willing to cut it up more you can fit 27s on. But with the auto, you are dealing with serious gutlessness on big tires, and also no low range which is pretty much essential to doing any "real" 4x4ing unless you want to go flying at every obstacle and smash over it instead of going slow and having the power to make it over without bogging down.

using a chain system would probably be ideal, the machining would not have to be as exact because you would not have to worry about gear meshing. The chains out of big chain drive 4x4 transfer cases could work, Im not sure if v8 timing chains would be able to handle the load though.

for 4x4ing steel rims will take more of a beating, and there tends to be more choices for 15" rims in mud terrain/all terrain patterns. Alloy rims look nicer, and are lighter which will give a better ride. Both have advantages.

I wouldnt have a problem with a lifted RX. A turbo with a DR would be a fun ride.

cool find! So is this gonna be a full-out overboosting, blowoff wooshing speed demon, or just a resto effort?

Well with the design of the ea82 xmember that puts the control arm pivots right under the axles, I dont think I could fit a diff up front with a 6" lift and still have enough downtravel before the axles rub. Offsetting the diff backwards to clear the pivots will introduce even more angle into the outer cvs at full lock, not something I need with 30" tires. So that leaves me with one other option, and thats swapping the ea81 stuff into the front to get the control arms that angle forward and pivot in front of the axles. How much of a task would this be? Anybody done it before?

Your planning to run the stock rear diff? To put it simply, either it will or the diff will go (wheres that explosion smiley when you need it) I think it would be a fun project, but I personally wouldnt dump much money into it, because its only tricks are going to be eating tires, and eating gas, and eating diff stubs.

the diff can be fit under a 6" on an ea81, it has been done on the unhatched.

yeah, I came across that t-case while looking for a nissan one. Its divorced, ft4wd with center difflock, high range reduction 1.2:1, low 2.0:1 its not as tall as a nissan case, but it is an offset output design rather than straight up and down style. Same drive flanges. For my purposes I think it is a better case, it offers extra high range reduction to offset the larger tires, and it continues in the subaru awd tradition. It fits nicely with my smaller lift so that I can keep a good center of gravity. For others it may not be a good choice cause you pretty much have to cut the tranny tunnel to get it packed in there nicely. Also, lada nivas arent anywhere to be found in the states. They are small russian 4x4s, similiar to a suzuki samurai or sidekick but with ifs. They have been imported into Canada a fair amount over the years.

I'm having some trouble figuring out how to fit the diff in the front. I currently have the material to build a 4" front body lift. I am planning to buy some 6x2 for the front cause I realize that 4" wont cut it. However, the ea82 front suspension puts the front axles right over top of the suspension arm pivots instead of behind. Even with a 6" lift clearance will be tight between the axles and arms, and I may have to angle the axles back 2" to clear the pivots. Do you think this would be okay? 8" is just too high for me. question 2, the guy at the parts counter stocks metric bolts, but said that the threads for the suspension bolts going into the body do not match his fine or coarse threads. Where can I go to find these bolts? Progress report: 4" rear lift done but probably will be ripped out and replaced with 6", t-case and rear driveshaft mocked up. Currently, the bottom of t-case sits about 1.5" higher than the bottom of the rear diff with only a 4" lift . If I go to 6" I'll be laughing

is this going into the blue wagon? cause the 5spd dual range STC is a 1.56 ratio

yes milling the head any significant amount will cause the intake ports to not line up, and also the timing will be off. I would expect the intake to be easy to fix but not the timing belts. You would need to change the orientation of the cam pulleys to compensate for the different length. I would say the best idea would be to get some custom pistons made for a higher compression ratio with stock heads.

\ I couldnt agree more! Congratulations! Im impressed that the import scene is actually open enough to appreciate a car with battle-scars!

The japanese at first used shared or just copied technology from britain, germany etc. (nobody bothered to copy most american junk Remember those little honda roadsters? They had exact copies of british SU carburators, and even looked very similiar to british sportscars of the era. But, over time, the japanese have gone far beyond the americans and europeans in terms of engine design, with superior engine alloys and engineering, bringing dohc aluminum engines with vvt and efi to the mainstream. Its now the rest of the world playing catch-up with the japanese.

an anal user of castrol oil eh?! I dont suppose it meant to come out like that

Basically the only advantage it has over setting up a wagon or hatch is the lsd. However the dr tranny has less reduction than the other DRs due to the 3.7:1 diff gears and lower low range ratio. Plus the turbo motor makes less power when its not under boost, because of the low compression pistons. Turbos can still be a blast off-road though. It wont be a crawler but it could still be a fun mud, dirt, and bajain' rig with a 3" and 26" tires. You could always convert the tranny and rear lsd to a 3.9:1 ratio and a wagon DR 5 spd.

Nice. I say peel that glue off and shave that trim :cool: My car has trim clips in some spots, glue in others, from your pics it looks to be just glue, and the paint is nice underneath!

Sounds like this car is really going to be driven I can't wait!

maybe try to keep the hood and headlights stock, so that it will still be a justy... in spirit

Its an Imprezy! hehe with that new motor its more subaru than it ever was