bushbasher

wouldnt higher pressure in the front reduce contact area and reduce traction? if you've got less traction in the front it seems to me that that should = understeer.

The touring wagons didnt come with sunroofs, at least the power sliding ones, because the raised rear roof doesnt provide room for the hardware. It's possible they could have pop-up types, but I've seen 2 touring wagons around here, neither had sunroofs. And one was a loyale strangely enough.

Well there you go, you just have to swap ej stuff into your ea82 box and then you can run lsd, 4.11s, etc. Very cool!

It seems to me that the low end sony, pioneer, etc stereos' lasers will go weak after 3 or 4 years, whereas the more expensive ones last longer. I've only had low end ones myself and theyve all lasted about the same. My friend has a lot of high end stuff and he says it lasts him longer.

If you've got good even sized tires and good cvs you "can" drive 4wd on the pavement, but it puts alot of stress on you cvs so they will wear out faster. It's possible you could blow something but I never did when I tried it. The main problem is that you have to get back onto a soft surface to get the tires to slide a bit and unbind the gears so you can shift out of 4wd.

Dude, turbos are 7.7:1, carb is 8.5:1, and spfi/mpfi is 9.5:1

I wouldn't have anything more to do with your old block and heads. No sense in polishing a turd. If I were you and could afford it I'd get the jap engine, put new headgaskets and timing belts on it, and run it.

That must hurt a bit :-\. The civic si has 110hp and weighs 2200lbs I think, so I guess it would have the edge. The si is a bit of a special case though. Not representative of all POS hondas :-p

Now thats funny!

Never ever try to force the tranny onto an engine! Sounds like you f'd that tranny up. I would just go out and find another tranny at a parts yard or Pull-A-Part. Subaru stuff is cheap, fiddling with autos is a pain in the rump roast. The transmission you need must be out of another turbo car as well. It sounds like you have the 2wd 3speed auto? If thats the case find a manual turbo tranny and do a swap. the 3spd autos suck.

Youve got nothing to "fill" with bondo, so you'd be making your fenders out of it. Thats the way my fenders were when I bought the car. I bumped the fender with my shoulder and the whole fender lip broke off in a big lump. Thats why bondo isnt the answer, not to mention it'll only be a few months before the rust underneath comes back and cracks the bondo from underneath, creating a place where water gets trapped, accelerating the process even more

Its a big task, one that I am undergoing on my wagon, only I'm not going for original appearance which makes it easier. Youll need a MIG welder, a grinder with grinding discs and cutting discs, aircraft shears (both left and right hand), vice grips and c-clamps to hold pieces still while you weld, POR rust paint to coat bare metal areas or areas with surfast rust inside the fender. There are lots of other tools like dremel tools or die grinders etc that will make the job easier. The best way to do it is to cut out the outer skin of a non-rusty rear fender. In the fender area the wagons, coupes, sedans are all the same. Also when you cut out the fender area, take some of the inner fender with it when you cut it out. Now you have to graft the fender in by cutting out all rust in the area, then trimming the cutout fender to fit, or you could trim the car, or a combination. It is a good idea to make all joints close to creased areas to reduce warping when welding. An easy way to do the joints is to fold down the edges of the sheetmetal of the car to make a lip that the replacement piece can be welded on top of, to leave an even joint. Then for the spots that are still open, like on the inside of the fender, use cardstock to make templates for patch pieces, then once you get the shape right replicate in sheetmetal and weld in. You'll also need a grinder to grind down welds, and bondo skills afterwards to make it all look smooth. I think that your car is too far gone in the rear fenders to consider bondo, because the rust is to the point where the shape of the rear fender is lost. You might be able to cut out the rust and use fiberglass to create a new fender lip and inner fender, thats tons of work but doesnt require a MIG welder.

I dont think the tranny will hold up to 4x the torque with 4:1 reduction. No, the shafts might not break, but its not that tough to strip the teeth off a gear when you have 400+ft-lbs of torque going into the tranny gears. I seem to remember that subarubrat fragged reverse on his 4spd DR tranny. It seems subaru engineers factored alot of extra stress into their designs (except rear stubs and axles :-\ ) which contributes to their reliability, but 50% larger tires, more hp, and higher tranny reduction puts torque through the tranny like an order of magnitude larger! Ask toyota folk with dual cases, you don't put the crawler gears in the first case, or you're asking to break shafts and gears in the 2nd case. Normally you never hear about a toyota tcase breaking, nor a dual case setup with the crawler gears in the 2nd case. It's that big of a jump in stress we're talking about. It's a rule of thumb to always put the reduction as close to the wheel end as possible. The diffs are the best place to get reliable reduction, because the stress acts only through the axles. Next best is the t-case, now you are putting more stress through the axles, differentials, and driveshaft. The absolute worst place to put all your reduction is right behind the engine!

hehe, it all looks mean, except for that stupid rump roast shifter just ruining everything

I was gonna ask about the frame too, but I know the lotus europa/elan frames join together in the middle to form a single backbone, and that one doesnt seem to Havent looked at an Esprit frame though. All_talk, the old lotuses aren't that expensive, they're just rare and so small its easy to miss them .

I think the guy from australia who rallies his rx has 4.11s in his car, can't remember his name. It might have been a factory rally deal though.

My buddy has a few scouts. My favourite is his '64 scout 80. Gutless, but is like a mountain goat on the rocks. VERY simple, short, with good overhangs, and nostalgic safari kind of feel. The scout 800s have v8s, and alot more go. His 78 scout II is very heavy (like 5000lbs) and IH v8s suck, they are big and heavy but gutless, and his rear overhang is worse than a subaru wagon. They also come with sucky gearing in the axles (3.07-3.73:1). They do come with strong axles though. Scout 80/800s rock, so do Samurais, early toyota pickups (friggin indestructable!), or full size heeps (jeeps) /cherokees. I cant think of anything else that isnt ridiculously expensive ie Jeep cj/yj/tj :-p

The only real differences are in the detergents I thought. I say theres still air in them. You could try going to a shop and getting them powerbled. Definitely check your rubber lines too, if your brakes were on fire, the heat could have done a number on your rubber. Hehe, piss on your rotors so they get rusty, then go for a drive to try and scour the glazed surface off Just a joke (though it might work...)

besides, you'll be wishing for a 6"+ lift eventually

ft4wd autos are way better than the 3at's.

Theres also the fact that the reduction happens before the transmission gears, so a bigger low range reduction would put serious stress on the transmission gears. Probably more than they can handle in the case of 4:1 reduction.

Cool Brat! :cool: Air is so much fun. Getting air in anything that's not supposed to be getting air is fun

All home built. Pretty much just like SubaruBrats documented lift except for changes due to differences between ea81/ea82. The front end of an ea82 is more complicated to lift due to the difference in the suspension arms, and the steering.

Specs? 31" grabber MT's not mounted yet but you can see em in one pic 6" lift Lada T-case with center diff-lock (allows 4wd on the pavement) plus 1.2:1 high range reduction to counteract the big meats on the road. 28:1 or 45:1 crawl ratio Stock 80's toyota 15x6 steel rims (the chrome rims and tires in the rear are temporary) Motor is stock except for no intake muffler and dual exhaust. Interior is stock but I have window tint for the rear half not put in yet. It will just be painted white I think with the lower half flat black, with white rims. Theres along way to go still before its driveable. Welded rear diff too. If I cant find an lsd for the front I might try a dual ebrake setup.