bushbasher

I REALLY like that car. Nice work.

The thing about clear coat is it has to be high quality or it will be destroyed by UV rays and yellow/peel after a few years in the sun. I personally wouldn't trust clearcoat in a spray can for a nice car. I'd go with a proffesional clear and have it sprayed on. The results would be worth the money I think.

You should weld it with a 220v mig if possible, less splatter. Otherwise a 220v arc welder. If you're using arc, try to rig it so that your welding upward, so most splatter will come down. Weld the spider gears really thick, fill in the whole area in each of the 4 valleys between the spiders. Doing a little weld between the 2 teeth will probably break, or the case will break from the stress of the gears trying to roll over the welds. Make sure you get all the slag and splatter off and rinsed out of the diff. Dont ever tip it pinion down before its fully cleaned or you'll get crap in the pinion bearings. Then put it back together, run it for awhile, then change the oil, and notice the amount of metal on the magnetic drain plug Then you're good to go. On both diffs I've welded, I've welded to the carrier as well, some say it's not a good idea, but its worked for me. Up to you if you want to do that as well.

Ya, I know what your saying. But with everybody complaining about rear ends going boom on big tires, for only 4 bucks a pound, doesn't this make sense? Alot of people swear by cryogenic treating. It relieves internal stresses, makes the surface harder, and the inside a more perfect metal structure, increasing it's dimentional strength, toughness, and resistance to fatigue.

it looks very good!

I figured there'd be more interest in this??

Not everybody can pull off colours like those I'd go for it if I were you. Actually I'd 2-tone it with another wild colour. Wait, it would probably end up looking like an 80's tracksuit if you 2-toned it

lol I have pretty good control over my desires to just step on the gas all the time.

Yeah well I was hoping it will be less of a project than my current one and be more practical for daily driving. I figure, while I'm going to school for mechanical engineering, a justy is awesome on gas, cheap to buy, and turbocharging it is something within my tools/abilities at home. I'd also focus on increasing handling as well.

I've been talking to a guy on Pirate4x4 who has a cryogenics business in Cali. His website is www.performancecryogenics.com. You can check out his rates and everything. From what I've read, this process is supposed to work quite well especially for cv's. Anyways, I'm thinking of sending some stuff in, and wondering if some others would give it a try as well, so we can compare our results with each other. It seems like both high hp and the t-case'd 4x4 croud are having problems with rear cv cup explosions and stubs twisting off, so I think this is a fairly cheap way to get some improvement without going to the extra effort of machining or solid axle swaps, or for people who want to remain loyal to their independant rear suspension. The guy I've been talking to (66cjdean on pirate4x4.com) has been very helpful so far. Here's what he's had to say about the stubs:

Turboing a justy is not such an abstract idea. I think it's very possible, someone could do the conversion without the help or knowledge of the message boards. But I think it's agreed that it didnt come stock like that. My next project will be a turboed 4wd 5spd justy daily driver. Probably megasquirted since I have previous experience with writing stuff for PIC chips etc.

Is it difficult to get parts? (I've owned an 86 Brat and an 86 Hatch and have sometimes had trouble finding parts) -Depending on where you are they could be more or less rare. Parts from the junkyard are probably not any harder to find than brat specific parts would be. Parts from the dealer would be more abundant I would imagine. What's their mileage like? (I know this info in abstract but would like more concrete data from an owner) -Not an owner myself, but I hear of mileage from the 30s into the 40 mpg range. How many miles can I expect on a 3 cylinder engine? -People say they don't last as long as an ea81, but it depends mostly on how the car was treated. Most people treat justy's like disposable pieces of crap so they don't last as long. I have seen justies running well at over 200k. How are they for rust compared to the 80s subarus? -Much better. How do they perform compared to a Gen 2 Brat? -Similiar power/weight ratio, but they weigh less so they are more nimble. Oh, and one other thing, avoid the ECVT transmissions like they are the plague. Find a 5spd manual version.

traditionally rear-steer rock buggys have hydraulic ram steering using a double ended ram, and hand lever control, with a thick pin that can be inserted by hand to lock the rear end in center. I wouldn't stick with r180s unless you can put stronger stubs in. I would consider the r200 or r230 (nissan 300zx/infiniti q45) If you're going that far, you should build something that would hold up to 33s at least under abuse. I would drop using stubs all together and use flanges. Then make axle shafts with nissan u-joints and PTO slip yoke shaft. On PTO shafts the entire shaft is one giant slip yoke so you'll have tons of travel possibilities with good high-travel u-joints. Making axles is not as much of a worry as making driveshafts, all you need is patience. Axles rotate slower and have their center of mass closer to the axle so vibration is much less of a problem. heres a pic of the kinds of shaft I'm talking about

Well I've never seen one up here. We do have chevy sprint/geo metro/pontiac firefly turbo's which are very similiar (but not the same, so it's not a bolt-on swap to put in a justy)

yeah but these things aren't spinning in excess of 20k rpm

is the bushings outer sleeve the same thickness and length as the sleeve welded to the control arm?

use a dremel or die grinder and a bit of patience.

and dont turn the ignition on Or you might get squirted.

burn them out. the diff hanger and front diff mount bushings are not removable because they are bonded to the metal.

well if not for a closer look I would have assumed it was a civic. How someone would want to do that to their car is beyond me.

eck. thats just gross.

sounds like rad cap is not venting

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=20274&highlight=steering check out this thread for steering ideas. you may have to cut and extend the 4wd shifter linkage but I'm pretty much talking out of my rump roast there, I've never had to bother with a 4wd shifter. The only time I've done a lift that dropped the engine was on a car with an auto tranny. My current lift keeps the motor in the same place.

well the important stuff like trim and glass is there. If you're handy with a welder and fiberglass, it looks doable. If I were to buy it, it would get suzuki lj 4x4 parts grafted into it

hehe I think you got it backwards. The first pic is the most recent one. It was the final jump of that sube before the next incarnation.