bushbasher

Pretty much everything that you can do to strengthen a birfield should work on a subaru cv because the type of joint is identical. The Inner joint is a DOJ which is very similiar to a CV but the ball/cage slide back and forth in a cylindrical bell, to allow change in length of the halfshaft. Im sure the same methods could be used to strengthen these as well. Awhile ago I was considering talking to Travis Rankin cause he does the "smurfields", he could probably do wonders for my cvs as well.

Troll Alarm.... Troll Alarm....

Theres going to be alot of rubbing going on with that combo.

well Ive had 1 axle shaft explode in my driveway but it seems that was a very freak occurance. I had a post before about cryo treating cvs and stubs but didnt get much of a response. I was talking to a guy on Pirate4x4 who runs a cryo business in Cali. http://www.performancecryogenics.com

Okay, put new axles in, with cv cup circle clips tacked onto cup around circumference. Beaten on them already, drop clutch reverse, forwards, 1 rear wheel climbs, etc no problems. All on aired down tires. I think my rear end is good to go now. But I'm stuck really bad up the hill now cause I slid off the trail into a hole with only rwd, gotta wait for my friend with his pickup to pull me out.

Its good you are starting with a carby block, they have a bit lower CR. GOOD because the more boost the less CR you want. I would get mpfi heads, plenum and fuel injection and go from there.

yep machining involved, then aluminum welding to fill the old holes, then refinish the rims. Lots of work.

I'm wondering whether fatigue cracks in the unibody or front crossmember would become a problem after awhile with solid mounts.

yes there is a front carrier, it houses the spider gears and the ring gear bolts to it.

it says its modified from a 6 bolt alloy.

Put EFI and welded rear in the list and I'd say thats about as good as it gets, except for going solid rear and t-cased with 30+" tires.

I would not recommend doing it again until you repaint your rig and rims flat black, so you can switch off the lights and be totally invisible

thats probably close, cause the positive camber is visible stock. I have my car at somewhere between 0 and 2, and it looks less noticeable but I have yet to do any road or high speed testing.

With the 6" on my wagon and the wheelbase extended 1" in the front, I hardly needed any firewall massaging, just fender trimming. I think you could get a 32, but a 33 is pushing it considering its also alot wider. A 33x9.5 might work. I find that stock toyota 15x7 rims are almost perfect for fitting tires onto the front. Just the right offset.

I consider that a different beast altogether. What I meant by t-case is both the tcase and the front diff swap into the ifs. mtsfabman is running solid axles on a custom frame. And its not an ea82, its an ER27 :-p

I meant ea82 sorry Theres several t-cased ea81s around now.

Ive seen an ea82t and ej-something on the net, do a google search you should find something.

its the same ON the USMB too :-p

nissan case is most popular, shares subaru flanges, up and down design is ideal for independant front/rear or ifs/solid rear apps. Downside is that its pretty tall, you need an 8" lift to give it appropriate hight, though I suppose you could cut up the tranny tunnel to get it higher. I used a lada niva transfer case. It features a high range reduction of 1.2 which helps gearing with big tires, shares subaru flanges, low range 2:1 reduction. You you have to cut the tunnel to fit it, but once its in there it fits up tight. Also not upright design, outputs are offset, which works fine but looks funny. Forgot to mention it has a center diff you can unlock for running 4wd on pavement then lock for the tough stuff. Edit: Nivas were never sold in the US (its a russian built 4x4) so it might be out of the question for you. Samurai case does not share subaru flanges so you have to figure out driveshafts. But it has a range of aftermarket support (ie 4:1, 6:1, and 8:1 gearsets). Also features enough high range reduction so that acceleration will be nearly stock when you are running 31s. It also has offset outputs but can be clocked to go straight up and down, with a loss in ground clearance of course. Edit: As far as I know I'm the only person with a t-cased ea82. Beware that putting a rear diff into the front suspension is much harder than on an ea81 because of the orientation of the suspension arms. The axles from the diff will interfere with the stock ea82 arms. If you want to do less lift than 10" (required to let the axles go over the suspension arms) you will have to do alot of work to the suspension. I managed to fit the diff in a 6" lift by moving the crossmember 3" forward, then making custom suspension arms that angle back. Tons of work. Other than that the whole thing goes pretty much the same as an ea81 job.

Some mainlanders have been trying to set something up. I dont think anythings happened yet. I cant find the original post.

you mean the backwards angle the axles will have? Lock to lock the outer cv almost reaches its max angle as it is. you wont be able to go much further. I tried when I was fitting a front diff up front, and it didnt work.

To try diagnosing the efi problem, you can check the error codes (like morse code) flashing from the ecu. First of all does your check engine light flash or remain lit while the vehicle is running? How about when it is warm? Heres a thread that will give you some more info on how to check codes, hopefully someone has a resource that shows what codes mean what. I have a haynes manual that has the codes in it, but no scanner. It would be a good idea to get one if you want to work on your sube. You can find them at pretty much any part store. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=4449&highlight=checking+codes Important: If you get a haynes manual do not follow its instructions on setting up the orientation of the cams when changing timing belts. Follow the way your motor was set up to begin with (check and mark the pulleys if needed before you take your belts off)

Cool, another island member! Welcome!

check PM's

Well after cooling off (I really needed it), and taking a look at the break, It looks to me like something was wrong with the heat treating of the shaft. It was a clean "shatter" with no signs of twisting so it was way too hard. The break is nearly reflective. The other breakage was a result of a design idea that worked well in theory but I don't think works great in practice. With dojs at both ends of my axle, I have enough slip to handle a ton of downtravel, but I think when the joints are under load, one will prefer to slip when the other one wont due to the side loads placed on the balls from engine torque, and so one will be forced past the clip even though there is room in the other doj. Then it pops the ring out and mashes the end of the cup on its way out. Thanks for the offer Subarubrat, I'll give my rear end a few more chances, and then well see how it goes. But my friend has an h190 rear axle with the same ratio as my front diff, and he'll let it go for a case of beer (along with the whole truck if I want it) so the thought of a solid rear that can handle relentless pounding is enticing