bushbasher

if its too short it wont be able to climb anything without flipping over backwards. Even samurais have this problem and they are a bit longer. Its the reason my subaru can climb a steeper grade than my friends cj5 on locked axles and 36" tires.

looks neat, but I dont think it would be very useful as a 4x4. Its too short and has no low range.

Plus it just looks hack to have welded steering components like that. Im not sure how you could do it. Im not sure how the rod fits into the steering rack, if its threads on both ends, get some high carbon steel rod, thread both ends then have it hardened.

That would sure be lame as well. With the bed so far back you could stick sandbags in the back and have no traction to drive anywhere

I hadnt seen it, but that is cool as a curiosity I guess. Too bad it isnt lwb but just long bed. Us canadians do get alot of european spec cars that never make it to the US because of the US's tougher standards and restrictions.

welding the rear end will make the thing drift ALOT when you are hard on the gas. instead of just breaking the inside wheel loose which doesnt do a whole lot when cornering, you can break both loose and your back end will go sliding. My friends toyota drifts like mad and its only got a wimpy carbbed 2l and 33s.

yes long wheelbase, the rump roast end is about 10-12" longer than a normal brat.

I'm hearing that a friend's new neighbor drives a rare lwb subaru brat. I don't know anything more than that. I will see it soon however, will try to snap some pics and talk to the owner. Apparently he's an eco-nut though, a high ranking TLC member (THE LAND CONSERVANCY, that likes to shut down access to public land using public dollars ) I still lament the loss of Harbourview Anyways, so I'm not sure what he would think of my monster sube.

it doesnt count if your fenders are rusty :-p Just a joke

a little bit of spline slop is no big deal, I would look at your tranny/engine mounts, because engine twist can make the angles much larger during accel. which will increase wear. Are you just having problems with boots splitting or do they actually start to click or shudder before the boots crack?

Atmospheric pressure is about 15psi. When your engine is not running, there is 15psi in the intake and 15psi outside the intake. When the motor starts running, the pressure will be a bit less than 15psi in the intake. The difference in pressure between the outside and the inside causes air to be sucked in. The difference in pressure cannot be more than 15psi, because 15psi -15psi = 0 which is total vacuum (like space) and there is no such thing as negative psi in this kind of application. The psi difference on an engine is never more than a few psi. Like Calebz said, you guys are reading 15 or 20 or whatever inches of mercury.

LOL thats what I was just thinking. When I stick my hand over the TB of a car idling there certainly isnt a 20psi difference in pressure sucking my hand in.

6bolt 2wd datsuns are a good source, I think 2wd mazdas are 5 bolt however. I found a set of 8 spoke 14" rims with nearly the same offset as standard subaru rims. I ran my ea82 no lift with these rims and 26" tires with little trouble.

HOLY *****! now those are some meats! Sounds like you need some early gen 6spoke toy rims like me. They are 3.5" backspace. I've got a 31x10.5 without a lot of sidewall tread, and I've got plenty of strut clearance, with a 6" lift no real inner body rubbing problems either.

"internet tough guys" edit: sweet vids!! WMP didnt work, had to download QT.

first gear is 3.5 something I believe on the 5spd so mine is first gear: 3.5 (ish) low range: 1.592 second case: 2.1:1 final drive:3.9:1 =45.6:1 on 31" tires, which I am happy with. In double low I have enough control to navigate any situation I can think of on the island (mostly fitting in tight spots between trees, bedrock climbs, riverbeds, and dirt/gravel) Plus just running my second case in low gives me 29:1 which is great for mud or loose climbs cause it gives me speed and keeps me in the 3-5k powerband. I guess thats 160ft/min.

yeah, It feels like the suspensions gonna flop over when I take a corner really hard.

Oh it can lay down rubber. Actually somethings wrong with the brakes too so that the back ones lock up first and act like an ebrake in the gravel and wet And its 13, not 40 :-\, but another idea is to sneak up harbourview, though there is a new gatekeeper (obstacle) that might be kind of scary if you dont have welded or lsd rear.

Yep, I'm down for that, but I just gotta finish the damn thing so I can put it on the road. No point in showing up for a suby meet in a grand caravan .

An inch won't make much difference in angles, and if you dont make the track wider the cups will bottom out when you stuff the suspension. Welding to the shafts is a no-no, they are hardened and will be severely weakened from welding. One thing you can do is put ea82 DOJ cups on both ends of your axles in the rear, this will give you the ability for several extra inches of travel, all you need to do is find a shock absorber with the right length and travel.

for an inch I wouldnt bother making body lift blocks, just get longer or slightly stiffer coils, or make a coil spacer to fit between the spring and strut plate, or make blocks that bolt between the strut top and body.

it will be way more than you will ever need, or subaru diffs and axles could ever take. Use it if you want, but you will have another 75 pounds and a few less inches of clearance underneath that dont have to be there.

Hey well, you can accuse the dealerships of mendacity as well. I agree with Subarubrats post

I'm getting jealous here Wish I had time to turbo my monster wagon. Looks like we're getting some of the best of both worlds on the island, a big t-cased 4x4 and a turbocharged beast

OH OH OH has anybody looked around to see if ea82 ecus are programmable at all? Maybe somebody with dealer connections can get ahold of the old diagnostics computers and see what can be done.