bushbasher

For a 31x10.5 you will want a rim with 3-3.5" backspace, and a 7-8" width. I have 31x10.5s on a 15x6" rim, but my 31s are skinnier than what is typical. Your tires will probably look ballooned out with a 10" wide rim. A rule of thumb is to be a few inches skinnier on the rim than the width rating of the tire. A friend of mine runs a 13.5" wide tire on a 10" rim and that is about perfect (no, not on a subaru ) That said, theres no way you're fitting a 31" in there without ALOT of cutting and hammering, even with a 4" lift. Im not sure where the limit without cutting is for ea81s with 4" lift, but I'm guessing somewhere from 26-28" or 215/75/15. For this size tire a 15x6 rim with 3.75-4" backspace would be perfect.

Going most places a 50k rig can go doesnt really mean anything, because the 50k is spent making that vehicle able to do that one hillclimb that nothing else can. Subies do make awesome trail rigs, If I didnt think so I wouldnt be building one. But make no mistake, a suby is no match for one of these tubed out rock buggies being pushed to its limits.

Haha, if I had 150k in the bank I'd do it

my button only leaves the tailights on

i think its 680 for a batch of 6 adapters.

the 3 bolts that bolt on the outside portion of the trailing arm can pivot if you bounce off something too hard. The position of this determines camber. Likely these are out of whack. You gotta undo the bolts and reposition. The bolts are hell to get loose though, I had to use the torch to get the captive nuts red hot. You should be able to see that its rotated, because you'll see a silhouhette in the undercoating/rust that shows the old position. Hope this helps. The strut in the back isnt a strut really, it doesnt have anything to do with suspension geometry. Changes in ride height will change camber due to the design of the trailing arms. Sagged springs on the rear strut could cause this, but you'd notice because the car will look its draggin its rump roast.

check out this rig, powered by a 450hp race-prepped STI motor Its strictly a comp rigl. They call them moon-buggies because of their offset design made to pack everything in as tight and low as possible with perfect weight distribution and suspension geometry. http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=308894&page=1&pp=25

well the whole rear end is weak as heck anyways, so if anything radical is to be done, I would think about using an r180 and longside axleshafts from the front of a nissan 720 PU in the back. Then make custom a-arms and use the nissan outer hubs with their disc brakes and manual hubs (weld the diff, and disconnect the rear in 10sec for the street)

the t-case is broken off its mounts here, just in case you are wondering why my front driveshaft sticks down Heres a short action vid: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/data/500/252DSCF0016.AVI specs in sig.

I think you could find better. Find something with busted timing belts or bad valve clatter. To me it wouldnt be worht the trouble of rebuilding or replacing the motor, just to drive a rusty car around.

88 gl with coloured bumpers

Yep its just mild steel, just cut and splice. Just make sure you are getting good penetration on your welds. I did this for my wagon and upon looking at the PK lift, I found it to be done the same way.

The power difference is negligable really, a few hp isnt going to make the difference between making something or not. Vanislru was doing just fine when we went wheelin in the forest behind my house. The 2500-3500 range is where you'd want to stay on a climb anyways. I had a turbo wagon on 27s and watched vanislru's wagon go, and I would not hesitate to use a turbo motor for a 'wheeler. Its tons more fun when it comes to higher speed off-road stuff as well.

Measurements are not really a problem, pictures is what I'm after cause my tranny is in-car and though I have all the major measurements, the thing isnt exactly all straight lines. I need something to look at while I model it. Think you could take a side profile pic?

heres a pic of progress. Note the chain drive and shaft, and the new more accurate motor (the tranny is still really innacurate, still need pics of a 5spd 4wd tranny)

needs more welded diff :-p Cool little crossing there. I think I've seen some videos on here of other guys going through there.

awesome guys, thats exactly the kinda stuff I need! I'll show you guys what I come up with:brow:

yep, should have clarified that. Sorry. this is what I've done so far, and whats here will probably be different in the end, its already gone through a few different designs.

Im looking for pictures to help me model the engine/tranny setup in Solidworks3d so I can start designing a midengine 4wd subaru buggy. I took some measurements of my engine/tranny in-car but dont have a great idea what it all looks like cause its covered in sheetmetal and vacuum hoses. I've drawn up a subaru tranny but the more I look at it the more incorrect it looks. Im interested in side profile, top view, bottom, front, anything that is at a fairly straight angle. Thanks!

Same for me, it just takes a few seconds.

These people dont want to give up the illusions that make them feel good about themselves. When they see a guy that does his work himself, goes faster, and spends way less money, they want to ignore it because the truth makes them look pathetic. Those that dont ignore it get jealous and mouth off your car or you personally. Just realize that its because they feel threatened. You build and drive your cars for enjoyment and personal satisfaction (as I do), and most of them drive wrx's for attention.

The duallies and space frame are sure not in my taste, but I wouldnt turn down a ride (Or a drive) in it. Definitely a cool machine.

The knuckle made me laugh. Its pretty redneck, but It works, and like you say its a prototype. I mig welded a washer around my rear axles to keep my outer DOJ from sliding around on the shaft. I went up a muddy bank at idle in double low, lifted one wheel off the ground and 'ping' the other side's axle snapped like glass right at the weld. I never quenched it, I let it air-cool in warm weather in the sun. I fixed that side, tried the hill and the other side went 'ping' exactly the same. I've tried a new solution and now have no problems dumping the clutch in double low on rock or even dusty pavement.

You can still drive in rwd on the road with a locked diff. As long as you are gentle it will not be any worse than running fwd with a locked rear diff. Increased wear I guess, but in my experience breakage is not as common on the road as people claim it is. I drove my ft4wd turbo wagon with 28" tires, welded diff and 28" tires with no problems on the road. Keeping your rear tire pressure high helps too. People dont usually daily-drive these things, and if they do it takes what, 15 min to swap in an open diff for the back, and 15min to put a welded one back in for a weekend on the trail. Thats what I plan on doing when my t-cased wagon gets on the road.

awesome. Never new about the CEL going off even though there might still be a problem. I figured when it goes off the problem is fixed. So my car doesnt actually just fix itself