bushbasher

The problem is, any attempt to give the MAF a lower signal will result in a lean condition because the MAF is a primary control for the fuel injection. One idea is to create a circuit in line with the maf that cuts the signal just below the fuel cut level, and run a secondary injector setup like an spfi injector, activated and perhaps even regulated by the same circuit. That way, even though the computer is going to give less fuel, the secondary system will start pumping to keep up with the engines real needs. Or just convert to MS. I'm no ea82t expert but one can get pretty far with a basic understanding of the system and a little bit of logic.

On flapper door style cars (85-86 I think) its a pressure switch, on later cars the MAF signal is used to determine boost. Those are the cars that we havent figured out yet, because to trick the MAF would also trick the computer to give less fuel than the motor needs.

I think thats true to a point, but one can buy a toyota pickup or a samurai and weld the diffs, swap junkyard leafsprings in, do a spring over etc for really cheap too. It still comes down to a matter of preference. I just like that these subarus look like unnasuming boxy commuters, but if you know what to do with them and are willing to spend a little bit of money and a lot of time, they can be turned into whatever you want them to be, from rally cars to baja to 4x4s or to autocross. My subaru has done obstacles that alot of other 4x4s weren't able to do, yet it is still a blast to rally around in with a suprisingly low COG, and it still carries 5 people and a bunch of stuff in the back. Its funny, because I told my friend I had some money laying around, and he asked me why the hell wasnt my subaru done yet then. Well, money doesnt get me anywhere cause I can't spend money on a subaru without spending alot of time; nothing is bolt-on once you go beyond the PK type body lift.

you can use your account here to upload photos into the photo gallery.

with open center ft4wd you wont notice any difference, because the diff will make up for the difference. Actually you will feel a different final gear ratio, it will be the average between the 2 ends, as a result of the center diff. Lock the center diff and you will get binding. That said, on gravel I wouldnt worry about the 2 different ratios, I drove my car around the property for quite awhile with 30" tires on the front and stockers on the rear (big speed difference) and while there was binding and strange handling, nothing broke, and to get it back out of 4wd I had to shift right after spinning a tire.

3.5" maybe 3.25" the other rims i now have are painted white and look n work great.

the ones I have are off 85-earlier toyota 4x4 pickups. The really early pickups have ugly stamped steel ones, but mine look like this:

The idea sounds ok since your weight will be much lower than a normal sube. Look at sweet82's buggy, it weighs under 2000lbs. I would build the buggy with a solid rear end right from the start though just so you know you can beat it all day long no worries.

mine goes on at 3/4 Never bothered to figure it out.

31x10.5s on stock toyota 6 spoke steelies (3.5" backspace I think) with room to spare on ea82 struts.

CCR inc. can get you a perfectly rebuilt ea81 or ea82. http://www.ccrengines.com very respected on this board. Thats a very nice color on that brat!

Im just thinking about turboing my 'gt. I want to get rid of the SU carbs especially with a turbo, and I not only understand the subaru system the best out of all the ones out there, I have a screamin deal on all the stuff waiting for me. I would be running stock boost, probably with an intercooler. Fabbing manifolds/headers is not a problem for me now that I have MIG power and prebent tubing.

if youve got photoshop, couldnt ya just hit the wheels with some tint or something?

someone on Vanc. Island is swapping a toyota 22re motor, tcase, tranny, and axles into a montero with a chopped up cab. I say go for it, monteros have good dimensions for a 4x4 rig.

eck, 2 thumbs down on that one. what a waste that would be, if you want a fast ranger put a small block in it.

30s will suck for climbing anything around here, I have 31s but I chucked an extra t-case in there for a good reason For snow and bombing around logging roads/mud pits they'll be OK but for crawling/climbing you'll be riding the clutch non stop. I stuck 30s on my wagon once to test, and immediately made up my mind to put a transfer case in. I had 27 or 28" tires on a turbo wagon with a 4eat, and it managed to do some pretty crazy stuff, the auto was really slipping heavily though.

Typical trails on the island are HEAVILY wooded (at least the challenging ones are) Cutting any trees bigger than say 4 or 5" to make a trail (or get yourself through a trail) is cheating. Half the time your line includes figuring out how to fit through narrow openings between trees without busting your mirrors or lights. The funniest situation I've been stuck in was when I tried to climb an off-camber mossy ledge with trees on either side, and slid downhill to end up sandwiched end to end between 2 big trees, about 4" forward of the grill, and 6" back from the tailgate. Also adding to the difficulty was a roundish boulder about 2ft round that got wedged between my rear quarter panel and the ground when I slid, lifting my passenger rear wheel off the ground. Another thing to mention was that I didnt have any bumpers on, so there was no way I could have made it out without serious body damage. I had to call a friend to winch it out carefully.

215/75/15 is around 26.5-27" I think, 235/75/15 is around 28" There are alot of at or mts in these sizes. If you want a good snow tire dont get an MT, get ATs. MTs have tread blocks that are too big.

Its not actually reverse rotation if you think about it, so it works fine. It's been done in quite a few cars now, including mine. Get a subaru diff in your hands and play around with it, you'll see how it works.

I agree you can have wheel hop with the stock suby setup, but in my experience it is more of a vibration when it happens due to the lower unsprung mass, and the short suspension arms, and doesnt really bounce the vehicle around at all. With rear setups like yours in other vehicles (spring over with blocks) I have seen really bad cases of wheelhop, because of the leverage on the leafsprings making them bend into "S" shapes. I've ridden in a 3-linked yj and a cj5 with military wrap leafs on the same day same trail, and the difference was huge, the 3-link felt much more solid and planted. the cj5 now has a track bar, but the track bar really likes to twist the front drivers side up when hes climbing, which is kinda scary :-\

I hate leafsprings so the idea of a 4link is nice, but there are not any places in the middle of the car that are good for mounting brackets. Using short arms would be alot easier cause you could use the stock suspension mounting areas which are reinforced. Putting leafsprings in is kind of a step backwards, who wants to add wheelhop to a car that never had it? And if you've got linkin' experience and dont mind throwing down some money for joints and tubing, go for it!

I would say no. I'm not running them (actually they are there but in my case not doing anything significant, since the body they bolt to is rusted out at that point) but my other blocks are welded together with 2x2 square tube to keep them from folding under.

my bet is that both the bolts and blocks are fine, and what you did was totally screw the unibody where the captive nuts are held.

yes you can install a tcase in a 4" lift, but ground clearance under the front diff would be sucky. With the right t-case and tunnel cutting tcase clearance could be acceptable, but youd be down into solid axle territory with front diff clearance. Thanks for the compliments on the t-case FAQ, I hope it helps people out and gets more big subes out on the trails out there (and less repeated questions on the board :-p )

Thanks guys. Since I actually agree with you now that I think about it, I went ahead and deleted those bits.