bushbasher

my wagons horn is absolutely pathetic. My mom's infiniti q45 horn is bad too. I almost got t-boned in the Q in a parking lot as someone backed out towards me. I was laying on the horn but the lady was 6" away from my pass. door before she stopped That car is very elegant, but the horn is sounds aweful. It needs some nice high note air horns.

I would just adjust the suspension all the way up and stick some 14" pugs and 26" AT's or snow tires. Maybe find an lsd for the rear, and stick a weber on for more performance.

On a stock subaru the front diff is in the tranny. No subarus of this era came with lsd in the front. When you see the seperate diff on the big lifted cars, it was put there to be driven by the tcase, but isnt there otherwise. Mudrat might be able to hook you up with a phantom grip lsd. He made a post awhile ago. You should get in contact with him.

mudrat recently announced that he can put phantom grips in the front diffs of trannies, so it is possible. I'm biased towards the fuel injected '87-88 ea82 models, they have the best off-road motors as far as performance goes (FI, OHC, 9.5:1 pistons) a lower low range ratio, power steering, more luxurious interior than ea81s. 4x4ing in style in a car is cool To me the power is well worth the timing belts. I don't know why people get so upset about having to replace them every 100k, its really not much of a challenge, and the motor doesnt get damaged when they break. Really deep mud apparently can mess with the t-belt tensioner I hear but it never happened to me. As far as ability goes, the differences are not really that great. Maybe a difference of 20hp, a 10% lower low range, an inch more overhang here or slightly bigger wheelwells there, basically the same suspension travel. Basically you want fuel injection, or a weber, and a 4 or 5spd DR tranny. If you can get a carbed car cheaper and throw a weber on, you'll be happy enough without FI. I had a turbo car, it was fun off road but with 28" tires and no low range on the stock tranny, it was a dog at low rpm. It was good at higher speed off-road stuff though. A turbo car with a DR tranny swapped in might be a fun beast. I bet even a turbo car will still have close to the power of a stock carb ea81 at low rpm, but it really takes off in the mid-high range. midrange torque is good at 134lb, pull strong to the redline.

Yeah, I had instances where, with the welded rear end and one front wheel way up in the sky, 1 front wheel would turn slowly, and though I could feel it pushing, it wasnt enough. If the rear could be locked up, or a pushbutton 3spd used, which I think is straight 4wd, it would be a good alternative for someone who likes autos more for wheelin. I love manuals, driven a few different auto 4x4 rigs and hate the slippy feeling of autos off-road.

well when people calc crawl ratios, for autos they usually muliply by 1.4 for the torque converter slip. So having an auto in front of a t-case might theoritically not be too bad, some people like autos for wheeling, some prefer manuals. For not having a low range, the 4eat in my turbowagon didnt do too bad. Comparing it to a manual in high range, I was probably able to do hills that would have been a serious pain otherwise. If the rear output could be locked up and a tcase put in there, it would make a good wheeler.

Oh so it's 500hp is it. Hmm, lets see, thats 180hp/l Is this going to be supercharged? Im curious to know you will get 500hp out of a 2.8l pushrod motor

I didn't know you would be in the situation with access to all sorts of cool stuff. I think that the 2.8 and the nissan axle are good ideas and I don't have any problems with a lowered brat. I think trying to put a nissan frame under it is counter productive, that's all. Whatever makes you happy, but you asked for good ideas, and I don't think the nissan chassis route is one of them.

If you want it to look good, you'll be spending lots of money on a tubing bender, a good mig welder if you don't have one, and many ft of .065 or .095 1 1.25 or 1.5 dia.tubin g to make a tubular space frame for the body. It can be done, but think realistically about your tools, and resources. A nissan pickup chassis is not going to fit under the brat, look good, and perform. And why bother, it would have to be narrowed, shortened, and you'd have to cut the body all to hell to make it fit. Then, you step back and realize you've got a heavy rump roast ladder frame in the middle of a body that used to be lightweight and nimble.

There's a datsun 720 2wd at my friends house that I can measure, but I don't think theres any way you could get the brat to sit low enough on the frame. It would look pretty redneck. The datsun body is sort of channeled too. I assume you want this thing pretty much slammed right? Why don't you just stick with the stock front suspension and fabricate a rear subframe to hold the 4-link and nissan axle? Then when you build a roll cage (or have one built) you can tie the points into the front frame rails, the side rails, and then down near the rear mount points for the 4-link to give stiffness.

who sells the adapter kit now? mudrat? It seems to me you should just find a legacy and do a small lift on that, with some good AT tires. the legacys are more luxurious, safer, and come with awd which is great because with the loyale you don't get any kind of traction aid on the pavement. AWD is still enough to let you play in the mud, do awesome in the snow, and get to that camping spot. you could just get the legacy, keep it stock and drive it. With a little downtime every once 'n awhile to put on your mods one at a time.

Yeah yeah yeah, keep on moving forward then

took some pics but now the comp with the camera software is getting a reformat tonight And that crappy resource hog software's not going anywhere near my computer.

find adjustable struts for the front, and fit honda accord rear springs in the rear coilovers, that can give you something. Do a search for accord springs. The adjustable front struts are found on early ea82 wagons ('85-86) I think. Other option is to make spacers for the strut tops/coilover mounts. Either way with a suspension lift you will be significantly decreasing the life of your axles. You can do it just be prepared to be replacing cv axles regularly.

okay took some measurements and put them into a paint scribble for better visual reference. Sorry, camera has ended up in my mom's car, so no pics yet. Keep in mind I was measuring from a gravel surface so the measurements might be +-1/2" But it still gives you the idea.

Cool! Those trails look like a lot of fun to bomb around on. Wicked flex MorganM :-p

no kidding Just search, if you make a stupid first post it'll take a long time to gain some face back, and don't come back at them with an attitude either. Of course who really cares if your goin to ask 1 question and then leave.

All I can say it you haven't seen "grant-0-vations" yet . Possibly not "The Red-Green show either. It's about taking things you've got in your back yard and redneck-engineering them to solve a problem. The fun is in that challenge. Grant I lost my 1st response, yes I can take those pics and measurements tomorrow, there was some other stuff I said but I can't remember.

My dad's honda auto just started to do the same thing. I think it has something to do with with it shifting into the next gear but not fully letting go of the previous one. The honda uses cones with a brake pad like material, im not sure if subarus use this system or the band system.

So your saying that the bolts woudl be horizontal joining sidewall to sidewall? Wouldnt the tire balloon out in the middle?

what about running tubes? then you don't have to worry about your joints or drilled holes holding air, just the forces on the rubber. Of course you have to be careful not to wear holes in the tubes from sharp edges. As for joining the rubber, It's vulcanized, I have no idea how it could be done chemically or if they could be melted together. BTW I want to see some of those CNC plasma goodies on this thing edit #2: More t-case stuff in my album: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showgallery.php?cat=500&ppuser=129

yeah forgot to mention that. I think you have to sign up to use the search, but I really wouldn't bother posting a question, seriously.

the pirate board is a rock-crawling site. They have lots of 4-link stuff but it's all for making huge flexy monsters not for drag cars that want to hook up best on a launch. i doubt you'll find anything other than some definitions, but even then the definitions will be in the context of rock climbing. If you want to bother with its http://www.pirate4x4.com

okay okay you win, my bad

its possible to weld sheetmetal on flux core but it'll never look pretty. the sp135 is not infinite, it's a 6 position wire tap. It's all the adjustability that you'll need though. unlike the POS ones with a "high/low" switch