bushbasher

Well I'm up there with you too, but there are some cars I'd have over a subaru... though its usually quite a price jump between subarus and those cars

spfi started in late 87 I believe, and the dr was common until 89-90 or so until the pushbutton 4wds took over. I have an 88 spfi wagon as well. Your best bet is to reduce your search to 5spd GL 4x4 wagons from 87-90.

that pic is pretty funny... I got several feet and a lightly nose heavy landing when I was chasing a deer across a field and I hit a woop. The turbo had just kicked in so thats probably what kept the front from diving too much The deer jumped over the fence, but my friend didn't want to have to fix the fence so I stopped. Second time over the woop it landed harder and broke two bolts off the top of the strut, and blew a headgasket simultaneously.

pshhh thats just running a little rich, thats all

my idea is to use a motorcycle engine with a chain drive to a driveshaft system running front to back with sube diffs front and rear. The sprokets from the chain drive could be resized to get back some of the extra 3.9 reduction from the diffs.

with a 5spd my car is farely gutsy, but it still has very little top end. I can smoke the front tires for ever, and it can really throw your head back in low, but once I get past 4000 its just making noise. It jumps off the line faster than the turbowagon ever did, but when this car gets to 4000 theres no turbo to rescue it. It's still a jump from driving the POS fully loaded 3400lb 86 honda accord with 90hp and an automatic

thats the one, it is a 3dr, I remembered wrong. But that is sweet, it kind of reminds me of the vw rabbit pickups though.

Sure paint will lose you a little cooling, but even on an air cooled motor it wouldnt be anything to worry about. I mean you can still burn your hand like nothinin else on a painted motorcycle cylinder head. As for the radiators, I think that the copper ones are painted black cause a blue-green oxidized rad looks gross, whereas aluminum never looks really bad it just goes dull.

i was surfing the usmb album and saw a whole collection of shots of an apparently well done light blue ea82 wagon with the back chopped to make a 4dr brat/baja job. Now I can't find them. I was gonna post a link but figured the guy was gonna reveal them himself and didn't want to spoil it for him.

I would call the manual ft4wd trannys awd because they are permanent. however the 4eat ft4wd trans has an electronically actuated clutch to engage the rear when the fronts slip. Also, older jeep and dodge products (quadra-trac etc) also have a mechanically actuated clutch which engages the front axles, these are labelled as ft4wd.

The blade design on that first supercharger is the wrong kind. A propeller produces high cfm, but it is near useless when you need it to create pressure. A centrifugal design like that in a real turbo is what you need. Notice how they advertise huge cfm numbers but no psi numbers. Also notice how they show that it draws 57 amps Hmm, if it doesn't burn the alternator belt off, you'll be losing way more hp than you gain. The second model might do something, but for 2 grand I'd just put a real turbo on it. This one doesnt run straight off the alt, it runs in 15sec pulses when you hit the button, from a seperate battery pack. On second thought, I'd just get a big nitrous kit :rolleyes:With this thing you've got three custom wound high hp/short life electric motors, and a battery pack that isn't going to last more than a couple years to go wrong. Doesn't sound like much of an investment to me. hell, why don't they just stick the three 6hp electric motors onto the crankshaft and give a good 18 direct hp.

I totally agree with asavage on the k&n issue,

maybe the resistor pack blew. Usually the first 2 go, and the motor won't turn on until you set it to 3 or 4, but maybe all 4 settings went? But wouldn't the fourth setting be straight thru without a resistor? Anyways, something else to check out maybe.

just cause you see a spark when you pull a plug doesn't necessarily mean it's a great spark under compression. Sparks should be bright blue at the plug at least. Old plug wires will arc across to other points if they are old enough. I would throw a set of wires and disty cap that are known to work perfectly on another car, or get new ones. When you have the engine running, pull a plug wire then replace it, listening for a change in the idle of the engine. If there is no change then that cylinder is not working. It helps to know exactly what cylinders are causing the problem. If you get a shock then you know your wires are bad or you could use insulated pliers It could also be that the cam on one side or both sides are a tooth off or something like that, I would check that too if you haven't already.

The capabilities of a platform like the justy have been proven time and again. Remeber the mini cooper? same layout, similiar weight and power, only the justy has 4wd. There is nothing like the nimbleness of a lightweight short wheelbase car. Mini's and justys have proven themselves in rallys time and time again. I don't see how you people can make such ridiculous comparisons. Of course a basically stock justy is not going to win in an open class rallyx Meeky mooses hatch has a weber carb and 27" tires. It's possible he managed 32mpg, but a neon srt for 200 yards? Maybe 2-20 yards until the neon stopped spinning its tires. Plus, in low range for every 2 shifts the other driver makes, Meeky'd have to make at least 3. Early subaru's are not renowned for their quick and precise shifting. Gee the justy must suck cause it can't run over cars why don't you go buy yourself an H2 and stop driving subarus if you think that bigger is better. heres some ratios for you So a stock mpfi justy has 70hp and weighs about 1600lbs Thats 22lbs/hp A stock rx has 115hp and weighs about 2600lbs Thats 22.6lbs/hp Pretty much the same there. If meeky mooses hatch has an estimated 90hp with the weber, and his hatch weighs 2500lbs Thats 27.7lbs/hp Dodge neon srt4 has 215hp and weighs 2900lbs Thats 13.4lbs/hp Remember the larger the number here the slower the car will be. I make no claim that the justy beats this or beats that, but it's not a slowpoke compared to what people on the boad are driving. I also make no claim that my car could beat anything either, except my friend's jeep.

So a justy with .5l less, weighing 500+lbs lighter with mpfi is not going to outperform a hatch in gas mileage. Thats exactly what justys are designed to do. I would assume you made an error in your calculations before I believe that you beat a justys gas mileage.

Don't worry I'm not writing off all the new gen guys, I do know one guy with a 2.5rs and he goes further than tune-up duty. I'm sure that there are alot more out there, but generally speaking I can say the new import scene isn't nearly as hands on as the old gen.

you might have 2wd front struts and 4wd rear coilovers causing a rake, cause the 4wd ones are taller.

well on the front outputs there are stubs that the axles slide off of, so you don't need to plug the tranny ends off.

thats why I dont have much respect for the newer import scene, it's all just about how much money you put in. If I had a wrx I'd be gettin my hands dirty no doubt about it. I'd wanna see the insides of that beatiful motor. Hell, if I buy a ferrari someday you can bet I'll have that motor apart in my garage at one point or another.

you can just cut the fuse holder off and splice some wires to the dash to a toggle switch. There is a light on the dash that shows when you are in fwd. I did that to the turbo wagon so I could do burnouts and reverse 180s I engaged disengaged when moving but not under acceleration or hard turning. I didnt try to push the limits though. Most the time I switched it when stopped.

man I may have seen 1 brat in my whole life (I just remember a small red truck with funny seats in the back) So I don't think they made it to vanc. island. About the justys, they also don't have low range. Rallyin is what they do best, though their small wheelbase would look cool with suzuki samurai running gear or somethign

dude I had the same fluke meter as you, and it did the same kind of things as yours. Mines like 10yrs old and it finally went screwy. My voltage readings are incorrect and ohms readings jump around from 0 to OL (unmeasurably large resistance/open circuit). You could fling that thing onto the concrete and it wouldn't be fazed. My dad just got a newer fluke 77 and he accidentally drove over it with the car, with no damage to the meter (except tire marks) Those flukes are very well built, very accurate, but expensive (my dads 77 cost over $200)

your not looking at the right numbers unless you've got a very strange engine swap, it should say "ea82" in a box right at the top of the block behind the timing belt covers and its a 1.8l ohc motor. But yeah sounds like timing belts.

yer gettin there brian... is that line-x photoshopped onto the bottom of your car?? Looks like a good plan. My car has different color panels, its got one white on with blue pinstripes, one silver one, a white hood with grease stains, and a white hatch. The car has a maroon/burgundy original color (which I absolutely loathe and am trying to remove with bush scratches) and grey interior.