bushbasher

sounds like i=e/r. Turbone, electronics involves semiconductors. Of course that involves electricity, semiconductors work on the principles of electricity. But that does not mean that electricity involves electronics. That is what I am saying. A circuit is electrical if it uses electricity and controls the electricity through mechanical means such as relays and switches. A circuit is electronic when it uses electricity and uses a semiconductor to control the flow of electricity. If I couldn't figure that out It'd be hard to imagine that I'm playing with PIC-chip based robotics or building guitar effect pedals!

When the circuit is open there is not ANY voltage at the motor regardless of the switch placement. The electrons sit, present in all the wires and in the motor, and they all begin to move at once in the same direction when the circuit is closed. A positive wire has no voltage or current until it is given a path to ground. It is just labelled hot or positive because that is what it becomes when it finds a path to ground.

Ive got it, though it sure doesnt seem to do much. If I were making it into a rally or street I'd take it off, I love the feeling of being directly linked to the road. But with my lift plans and the way the wheel can already whip out of my hands on rocks, its gonna stay

lookin good. The fastest trashwagon yet?

hey no problem. Yeah the switches can stop working because they can get carbon deposits from being switched on and off and getting little electrical arcs on the contacts. The difference between the study of electronics and electrics is that electronics involves semiconductors. Sure motors and switches are electronic in nature, as in they deal with electrons, and motors and switches can be involved in electronic circuits, but there is a distinction. I play around with electronics and electrics alot, lifegaurding is just a part-time job

strangely enough a small toggle switch has been able to turn my fans on and off for a few weeks now, and it doesnt heat up at all. I agree on the voltage spikes, its all one current flow it doesnt matter whether you are on the "positive" or "negative" side (these are just abstract concepts anyways)

Skip take your anger or bouts of poor character out on something other than the message board. I agree that there is no relay, however I don't see any problem running wires to a switch to cut current on/off when you want to. I have done this same thing to my subaru. Since the wires being run are both grounds, accidental contact with any other ground will only cause the fan to be permanantly grounded at the most. To create a short circuit, one of the wires would have to somehow come in contact with another hot wire. Which is pretty hard to do. Even if it manages to find a positive wire, it still isn't a huge deal because the fan circuit is already fused from the factory. Of course nothing is ever failsafe, but I'm pretty confident that this is safe enough. BTW motors, switches, and relays are not electronic, they are electrical. Electronics involves the use of semiconductors. -I've edited out some more offensive things I said, I was having a "bout of poor character" myself. I guess I can't blame ya, and I apologize

now a trip to a FRESHWATER lake is in order I think!

get some service/maintenance records, cause if the timing belts have not been recently replaced they could be ready to go.

45lb oil pressure is quite high, you may be right about the lifters not getting oil.

My idiot light stays on 24/7 But that shows that they are independant to some degree cause the gauge works fine.

My ea82 wagon can drop right down to 4-500 rpm and keep pulling up hills iwithout any use of the gas pedal. In fact I have felt the engine pretty much stop and then chug forward and keep going. and scoob555 its possible that the magazine measurements were at the wheel wereas the manufacturer claim was likely at the flywheel. You are comparing apples to oranges. Also, you have not tested your 1.6l, it is possible that this motor makes less than it's rating as well. my engine is running 270 000 km and other than new timing belts and an o2 sensor there has been no bolt turned on the motor. It revs happily, pulls hard, and doesn't burn or leak a drop. In fact the oil pan is starting to get surface rust

what else could he mean by "clever driving technique"

If I were you I would just stick with the legacy turbo idea. I mean being able to say "twin turbo" is cool, but there are other limitations to the engine before you need twin turbos to get more power. legacy turbo custom x-over & downpipe cams aftermarket ecu higher-flow injectors wrx intercooler with recirculating blow off.

and don't forget your fine selection of rubber hoses and gas cans! Strap 4 good tires to the roof for spares. I'd take the least extravagantly colored car to reduce attention.

im sure any subaru is priceless over there... It's not about a reasonable price for a sube, it's about actually finding one

maybe just a "performance" type section. I think ea82t is too specific, there won't be enough traffic

The trip computer display is similiar to the dash clock of a standard gl I think, but I can't quite remember. Anyway the solders crack on the circuit board behind the display. If you resolder the connections it should work again. however sometimes resistors/capacitors burn out and you'd have to replace them or find another trip computer. I had the same problem with the dash clock and fixed it this way. There is a writeup somewhere out there. 0h and stock hp is 115 at around 5000, tq is 134 at around 3000rpm. Estimations are that with a boost controller ic and exhaust work including downpipe, around 150 or more hp is possible with the stock engine internals and computer. As far as the lsd goes, your car probably doesn't have it, as it only came in wagons during '89 or so. RX's have lsds however, and you can snag one of those and bolt it in place of your old rear diff. LSDs have a 3.7 final ratio. Your car is likely a 3.7 but I would check. If it is a 3.9 then you will have to convert the lsd to 3.9. Theres a writeup in the USRM for that.

I haven't done this conversion (yet perhaps) but I'm not sure you need to mess with the subaru shifters as the engine stays in stock location to make room for the extra diff underneath. It's still a huge job anyways no doubt about it. tranny d-shaft tcase ------------, ,---------, 1.5:1 I--------------I I _______/ I 2:1 I ,____ I I _____ I \____ __-- I______I----___ _____/ I I_O_______I---- -----I_______O__I front diff d-shaft d-shaft rear diff how the heck do I make ascII art work? so much for that

my 4eat held out up past 6000 a few times, maybe yours is broken or maybe mine was.

My first experience was with my t-wagon. First vehicle I really 4x4ed in. Did a 6" lift, 27" tires, welded rear... crawled up a hill that put my friends jeep (stock minus rear posi at that time) to shame, drowned the car in a mud hole, got air at a redneck beater rallyx. Ahh the memories. I figured I'd get another one cause I was so impressed with the engineering and capabilities of the first. Right now I can't wait til my car is ready to put more 4x4s to shame. However this time it's getting a properly done lift.

3.62" or 92mm

haha it got a rating of negative 26! I once watched a japanese samurai version of Shakespeare's Macbeth in in English class. That had to be the next funniest example of japanese film-making ever created. I like that guys quote, "I think it's almost unfair to the movie to lump it into pornography. Instead I would like to think of it as a film designed with the sole intent of confusing and frightening the viewer."

oooooooh man that sounds mean! No doubt your engine has something to do with it too!

i think the only big reason people knock the ats is cause they suck power more than a mt.