bushbasher

bratman says that a mechanical fan will always use more power than electric. This isnt true. For the same flow, an electric fan will take more hp from the engine because of the losses from motor to alt to electric motor. Electric fans are better because they are switchable wereas a mechanical is not. So overall less energy is used during driving.

mr2, 914, bahhh lotus europa ownz all!! 914s are good, but I beat an mr2 in the twisties with a 2.0l efi vw van

Bruiser chassis are works of beauty

those are vintage tamiya right? The chassis with the solid rear/doule wishbone front?

that is the o2 sensor on the downpipe. na ea82s have no downpipe, so instead it is at the intersection of the 2 pipes going into the cat.

Why should a mechanical fan be less efficient than an electric if they are both always on? Electric is more efficient when it is being switched on and off when you dont need it. But you are losing efficiency through the alt, and then into the electric fan motor. A non-clutched mechanical fan is the most efficient if you plan on having it on 100% of the time.

-1988 Subaru GL SPFI wagon Just went wheeling, and got back and turned off the motor, then about a 1/2hr later got back in to start it up, and it seems like it is sparking before the valves are closed, causing the flame to blow up into the intake. It barely starts, and backfires into the intake when you punch it, but then goes smooth at higher rpms. I also feel a hard pinging through the shifter. So I figure at high rpms it predets, and at low rpms it backfires into the intake. That seems like the timing is stuck all the way forward. The disty hasn't moved and I'm not getting trouble codes. It also was running hotter than normal before I parked it, even though I had the fan on constantly. It was at about 2/3 heat at the hottest point with the fan running. Whats going on???? My dad says predet also causes engines to run hotter, so that supports my diagnosis.

If we were to have custom stubs made, one thing I would do is instead of making the massive hole through the center, extend the bolts so the heads are near the outside of the stub, with a smaller hole through the center just big enough for the shaft, then use setscrews or something of the type to hold the axles onto the stub. That way you could get alot more material in there. Get it cryo-treated too

yeah, We'll see how faithful I remain to independant suspension after I've broken a handful of axle stubs! Toyota Axles are cheap around here, or jeep d30/d35s, they should be strong enough on a lighter car, the max they can handle is 35s on a jeep which is at least 3000lbs

looking good! Lowered ea82s look pretty cool, but I think its harder to make a lowered ea81 look good. I think you should search out an rx body kit before you paint it

lol the center diff lock is not on canadian autos, I had one, and the one full-time 5spd ive seen had a diff lock, so I think the transmissions are all the same as US. IMO theres not much point in locking up the center, all I ever managed to do with the 4eat was spin the fronts maybe a 1/4 rev or less before the rears kicked in. At lower speeds on rocks and gravel I couldn't tell that it was engaging/disengaging. If your going to hardcore 4x4 the 4eat is not the one for you anyways, cause it's got no low range.

that sounds pretty wild! Lots of work, but sube owners love their independant suspension!

Okay just wondering, I would still take a 720 over a sammy case just cause its been done before, I've got enough new territory with doing the ea82 anyways. I'll probably run 30" tires max without suspension lift just to keep the axles and stubs durable as possible. Im gonna keep trying for a 720.

The way I remember it I think you just take a whole xt strut and bolt it in. In the back you take apart the coilover and put the xt coil in it. I could be off though.

The island is flooded with sammys but datsun 720s are hard to find. Also, sammy cases have a 1.4 reduction in high range as well which would work out well with bigger tires. Then you'd have 1.56 low range tranny reduction, 1.4 high range t-case reduction, and 2.3:1 low range t-case reduction. The samurai t-cases are the same divorced up and down style I think, and they have drive flanges but I'm not sure that they match subaru like nissan does. Has anyone else pursued this?

80-82 has lower 1st gear but a 5spd dual range has a lower low range, 1.56:1 vs 1.45:1. 29s are going to be drivable but not great... Whether they are too fast for the trail depends on the trail, is it mountanous or flat? For flat Id say good enough. T-case mod is a lot of work but go for it if you got the time money and tools

to lower it I think you do xt front struts and xt rear coils in the stock coilover. Not sure though, just tid'n you over

I bought 2 fenders, a complete rear tailgate, a hood, and some rear suspension pieces all rust free with a few dings, for 50 bucks. So I'd have walked away as well

If you want a project, start out with a better than $50 car, you'll end up paying less in the end with all the work you don't have to do. Find a good running 4wd justy and cut the top off, or buy this 50 dollar one, get it running and go jumping

I've been contemplating pulling out the plastic sides around the cargo compartment and doing aluminum or sheetmetal storage compartments

woohoo right to 7k on a cold motor!!!

with a good efi system you could be getting better than 20mpg on a 318. Thats why fuel injection took over. It also helps engines last longer because the a/f is kept nearer perfect, making engines last longer due to less carbon production. Generally on a carb motor the oil begins to become black from carbon between oil changes if the carb isn't tuned exactly right. All of the efi motors I have seen have kept the oil amber. This has just been my experience, and its a pretty far fetch from a controlled experiment, but there ya go anyways.

all my tar stuff had cracked up from my bottoming out and tweaking the floorboards, so all i had to do was hack with a screwdriver or chisel and most of it came out. In a few areas I tapped with a hammer to loosen it. Then there was the tar over the plugs which is gooey and doesnt break off. I just gouged it down as much as I could and smoothed it out. BTW I put my carpets back in but I cut them up so that they can be removed without unbolting the seats or center console. So when they get muddy I can pull them out, hose them off and let them air dry. I scraped off all of the recycled lint carp off the carpets too.

Thanks asavage, this all makes sense to me... a good cap to last nights mess of posts

when you hook a voltmeter there is a path to ground. A voltmeter has a very small current draw. It is not completely passive in a circuit. I'd like to hear exactly how the voltage spike is created.