bushbasher

my ea82t wouldnt make it past 7000 under acceleration, but it was a pos car. But it had 370 000km on it, with an on and off headgasket problem, actually most likely cracked heads and I had it around 6500-7000 for probably 30sec to a minute with no damage to the enginee. The motor went after I filled it with water and let it sit for a week, then restarted it and went burning around The main problem with high rpms is wear which increases alot with rpm. Also I could see a weak oil pump giving out, or dropped valves, broken timing belts if they are old and fatigued.

my old honda accord saves fuel with an extremely stiff gas pedal spring. it requires force to get anywhere near the floor, and going up mountains gets your foot tired, but boy does it save!

my t-wagon went to about 7500 according to the digidash in neutral, but couldn't get it past 7000 under acceleration.

a whine can be caused by a misaligned ring and pinion. The 4wd could be taking the load off the front diff, causing the noise to stop.

ive got about 4" of snow on top of slick ice (you cant walk down my driveway without slipping and falling) on my driveway and trails now, and I went powering up them in my subaru. One hill is about as steep as that one in the pic but twice as long. A guy working on our wood floors couldn't get up our driveway in a 4wd dakota on at's, not without a little help from the subaru. He thanked me but I doubt he'll ever confess to anyone else

I dont know why everybody tries to sell PKdavis' lifts for him. Matt says its a winter car and he doesn't want to spend money, so get off his back. All this "PK lift is the only way to go" carp is really annoying. An inch or 2 wont kill your axles, the lifespan may shorten a bit but your not going to go through axles like oil changes. Subaru geometry is Sh*t anyway in the front, and you can use the opportunity to get closer to negative camber when you make the lift plate on top of the strut.

on a nissan/samurai t-case lift, the engine stays in the same place relative to the body, sitting on a crossmember bolted into the body, with lift blocks under the crossmember, going down to a second crossmember which actually carries the suspension arms and diff. In the back its just big lift blocks. I don't see a way to do the steering arm without welding unless you've got machining skills, but since the motor/tranny isn't dropped with the t-case type lift, you dont have to weld the shifters. Check out the wcss5 pics of the unhatched? and adamndj's brat in the image gallery for visuals.

ya I hear you on those bolts, I spent 10 min sitting on a 3ft breaker bar for each bolt, all the way from breaking until they came out. The bolts were so hot they burnt me when I finally got them out

theres no way your going over 100 with my described method for the lift. all you have to do is drill some holes, buy or find 4 bolts with nuts, and weld 2 strut caps together. With the byb you are looking at 300 plus shipping for the lift. However you are getting an extra inch, and there is no question of durability at all. By putting larger springs you are limiting down travel by as many inches as you lift it. He says homemade, so it's likely he has more time than money.

ya cause the spfi one has a what... 3/4" hole in it?

sweet cause I have an mpfi sensor around, I guess that would be a bit of a flow improvement.

the most suspension lift you can have in the front is about 2" You will also want to make your strut tops so that they pull the struts in further, to keep camber reasonable. In the back apparently you can go about 3" but the wheel moves forward a bit at that point, which looks kinda funny. I did the rear strut bracket thing on a turbo wagon, and thought it would break, but it worked. I think it would be stronger to make a bracket, and the bolt method isnt the cleanest looking, it all depends on what level of finish you want. You will have to use a different bolt with its own nut, and take off the plastic interior rear quarter panels to get the nuts on, as you will be drilling through both layers of sheetmetal.

matt just wants an inch or 2, so I would say a suspension lift is all he needs. In the back you just have to drill new holes that mount the top of the coilover however many inches downward, and in the front, you can get and extra strut top, and weld that to your strut top, giving you some lift there.

90% of clock problems are due to cracked solder joints. If heat/cold, shock make a difference you know its a cracked solder joint. This applies to all electronics. Subiemechs happened to be a component failure. That is likely too, as these clocks get hot, and their heating and cooling is what causes the solder cracks.

sounds like time for some sugar in the neighbors tank.

it could be that your battery just isn't holding a charge anymore. Try disconnecting the battery over night, then reconnecting it in the morning. If the battery is still good then its not the problem.

Inspect the rocker ends, and inner fenderwells more carefully. Further rust can be hard to see especially when you are excited, but the fenderwells can be completely rusted through with only the undercoating making it look nice. The patched rust might look okay for a few years, but it will come back, and the bondo will start to chunk off. Look for rust through the side compartments in the rear corners of the trunk floor. Also check the "frame rails" that run under the front floorpan up towards the engine. Rust here is a structural problem. If it is good in these areas then 1000 is a reasonable price around where I live. If you see more rust point it out and try to bring him down some more. Or you can always find another one. A number of things can cause sluggishness, but at 93k I would say it is likely something small. If you can find the time do a compression test. It could be somethign as simple as timing or a dirty air filter though. Also do some tests on the clutch, like put it in 4th gear and try to go forward, by riding the clutch. If you can't get it to go far without stalling then the clutch is good. To see if the clutch is rubbing, put the car in 1st gear with the ebrake on, with the clutch pushed down, and see if the revs increase at all when you put it in neutral.

the brackets for the screws can bend too.

a bad connection to ground can cause the engine to run roughly, as well as dim lights, and alternator problems. I just cleaned my grounds and now my hesitation is gone (it would hesitate between 1k-2k when mashing the pedal), and my horn and lights are more powerful. My battery is also now charging, though it may be too late as its been sitting dead.

remember the carb pistons are higher comp than turbo ones.

it might disable use of the difflock? cause yours just has a center diff no electronic clutch crap

Actually your probably right, it probably said fwd, as it was like the little "fwd" logo that you see on a dr shift gate. Though I must be remembering it backwards, mine likely went into fwd with the fuse in as you say. My friend actually discovered it and showed me later, before the car switched hands to me, and then I wired an in-dash switch to it, but I'll rely on what you say.

the sube, honda, and the caravan all do it. It has to do with the vacuum boost on the brakes

on my 88 or 89? gl10t when you pull the fuse it went into 2wd, and you're saying it goes into 2wd when you put the fuse in? My mind could have slipped though I suppose. I just remember a cap that said "2wd" with a fuse underneath

I've got a roll of tint I will be installing sooner or later, some nice dark 5% stuff