J A Blazer

That is the knock sensor connector. Normal. Only 1 wire, although it is a 2-wire connector.

I'm not suggesting 'pulling' the hood, simply making it more vertical.

Here is how I removed the starter in my 2000 4cyl OBW w/ AT after many unsuccessful false starts. Place car on ramps. Not necessary to remove either front wheel. Disconnect battery. Relocate hood support so as to permit additional access to rear portion of engine compartment. Remove air filter housing. Locate starter and remove power connections. Loosen top bolt, 14 mm I believe. Some people claim they can remove the lower starter bolt from above, but I could not. Take a long stick and from the top, place so as to touch the lower bolt - this will help you see where it is in the next step. On your back or on a creeper approach undercarriage from the front (not the side.) With bright illumination locate the stick that points to the lower starter bolt. With a 14mm socket on a wobbler and about 12" of extensions approach the lower starter bolt by going in from above the automatic transmission filter. Remove the lower bolt. Go back up above and remove the loosened top bolt. Lift out starter. If any aspect of this does not make sense let me know and I will try to clarify.

I would still replace the contacts and plunger and see if that isn't all that the starter needs. If you need some tips on how to remove the starter let me know; been there done that on my 2000 OBW, and learned some tricks along the way.

I had this problem with my 2000 OBW 2.5; front axles were replaced 5 years ago and were doing fine but as soon as I replaced the entire exhaust system the inner boot on the passenger side, which is directly above the cat, ruptured. I'm convinced it is because the replacement cat does not have a heat shield. Would love to see pictures of the heat shields that other posters have fabricated.

I recall that when I installed a trailer wire harness connector to my 2000 OBW the directions (perhaps on eTrailer?) were wrong; they said to look on the driver's side but I found it on the passenger's.

So how overdue was it for a timing belt change?

The tool you describe can be bought from Snap On for about $125.

Have you tried rebuilding your present one first? If yours is like the Denso in later years, its a very simple and inexpensive fix to replace the contacts.

Fairtax: Question regarding your comment about an exhaust leak being a possible cause of a 420. Is that only true if the leak is upstream of the downstream sensor? Thanks.

I'm tired of the 420 code, and after 170K miles I guess its time to replace the entire exhaust system anyways; there is already one patch in it. A reputable vendor sells a complete set of necessary parts, made by Walker, for about $650. Anyone with Walker experience, good or bad? TIA.

Do the sway bar bushings. Cheap and easy. See if that doesn't at least reduce the clunks.

The problem with the simple version you plan is that the ball will rotate within its housing as you try to tighten the nut, frustrating the effort to draw the entire ball joint assembly out of the bearing housing.

The Snap-On BJR1 is the tool you needed.

I think the SnapOn tool is about $125.

There are others on this forum far more knowledgeable than I, but understand in the 4 cylinder engine there are two sensors, one pre-cat (also called 'upstream') and the other post-cat (aka 'downstream.') Failure of the upstream one will affect performance; failure of the downstream one won't. But yes, the check engine light glaring in your face is a real pain, and regardless of whether your car passes emissions tests will jeopardize mandated safety/emissions checks and attempts to sell.

I regularly debate this issue myself as my 2000 4 cyl OBW ages. Preference would be for a 2008 6 cyl OBW (I prefer the 2008-2009 front end compared to the 2005-2007) but may settle for a 2004 6 cyl OBW.

In mine, I had to replace the turn signal stalk on the steering column.

Find a company that rebuilds starters and alternators; they should be able to help.

In my experience the 420 is a cat efficiency code.

The stalk is the lever attached to the steering column that you flip up to signal right turns and down for left turns.

Several owners, myself included, have experienced a similar problem that was only cured by replacing the turn signal stalk.

Perhaps the 2005-2009 generation of Outbacks are different, but on my 2000 Outback I was unable to compress the springs far enough to free up the top nut. And I was using a fairly high quality set of spring compressors from Sears. Had to take them to a mechanic with a more sophisticated device.

I have posted on this issue before. I have a 2000 OBW that had the exact same problem. Dealer mechanic insisted it was the bulb but I knew otherwise. I replaced the stalk (new from RockAuto) and problem has not returned. Stalk is a user-installable item, but you need to lay on your back on the driver's seat with your head in the footwell.

Thats a lot of miles for a 2008. But if there is nothing seriously wrong, price ($8K?) is probably about right. Did you run a carfax?