J A Blazer

Also try Leatherique.

Pardon the long post but I need advice. 2000 4 cyl. OBW, AT, 158K. Purchased 6 years ago from original owner, w/ 85K. In recent years the check engine light came on often enough that I bought a cheap code reader. Codes were 328 and 420. New pre-cat O2 sensor, fix exhaust leak, and reattach heat shield have hopefully put the 420 to rest. In August 2011 I broke down and bought a new OE O2 sensor. Went to install it but sensed some possible cross-threading in the original location, so I placed it in the 'other' spot, a few inches back and to the right. Didn't really end the problem, but may have reduced the frequency. Monday of this week I took the car to the dealer for some unrelated work that I couldn't do myself. On the way to the dealer the CEL came on. Scanned the code and sure enough a 328. Asked the dealer to investigate. They insisted on selling me a new knock sensor, chasing the original threads, and placing the new sensor 'where it belongs.' I wasn't happy, but agreed. They cleared the codes. Picked the car up the next day, and 5 miles later the CEL back on; sure enough, a 328. I called the dealer, expressing my displeasure (to put it mildly.) We agreed that I would not clear the codes and would return to the dealer in a few days (a part for an unrelated repair had to be ordered.) Anyways, the next day the CEL spontaneously went out. Then a day or so later it came back on. I scanned it, still a 328. Then it went out again, and that is the present state of affairs, although a scan still reveals P0328. What's going on here? Under these circumstances is there some sort of 'learning curve' once new sensors are installed, even though the codes have been cleared? A search of various sites, both Subaru-specific and generic, suggests that worn engine mounts may be a possible cause of a knock sensor code. The collective wisdom of the group would be greatly appreciated. I plan on driving the car a lot this weekend before taking it back to the dealer on Monday.

I had the windshield replaced in my 2000 OBW last weekend. Paid $240. I do a lot of DIYs, but that is one job I would never attempt.

2000 OBW, base edition If the lens is replaceable, that is all that I really need.

I have a very slight ATF leak. Dealer tells me that I have 'transmission wire harness seal leaking' and wants $370 to fix. I've never heard of this. Likely true? DIYable? TIA.

Thanks folks. I've decided to take it to the dealer on Tuesday morning. I'll report back.

I took my 2000 OBW w/ 150K to my independent mechanic, complaining of play in the front end. He tells me that the steering rack is bad. He assures me that it is not something simpler, like tie rods (incl inner & outer ends.) What is the best source for a reman rack? When I replaced the axles I was advised that Marshall Wolf was the 'go-to' guy; does he have a rack equivalent? TIA.

Might try www.machv.com in Sterling; they work on Subarus.

90 pounds? Torque spec for my 2000 OBW is 72.

Let me echo the remark about checking o-rings first. Your mechanic should put dye in the system and check for leaks before randomly replacing parts. In my 2000 OBW, it was a $3 o-ring that fixed the problem.

You're obviously more flexible than I am. Took me many false starts before I could figure out the proper angle of approach and combination of extensions, wobblers, etc.

How did you get the lower starter nut off so quickly? Did you have the car up on a lift?

Previous posts have suggested that the likely source is the heated mirror switch.

You will probably find some pitting on the plunger contact ring, but it can be cleaned up with some fine sandpaper or emory cloth. In my experience the main reason that the starter gets finicky with age is that the contacts wear unevenly, which means that the plunger contact ring does not make good contact with both contacts. Once you open your starter you'll see what I mean.

The plunger forces the toothed drive gear towards the starter plate attached to the torque converter (or to the flywheel if yours is a stick shift) at the same time it completes the circuit between the two contacts, thus permitting the flow of current to the starter motor and causing it to spin.

Like I said, some dealers either deny they exist, or don't know they exist. I suggest that you go with the NationsAutoElectric suggestion; their price is good and will include contacts, plunger, and probably instructions.

Describe to them your car and they should send you the proper kit. Some Subaru dealers stock the contacts, other dealers deny that they can be bought. I have rebuilt two Denso starters; I bought the contacts at a local starter/alternator repair place.

Ditto to what Olnick said. If the starter is original and has anything over 100k miles, worn out contacts are the likely problem. Cheap and easy repair, once you get the starter out.

That rust doesn't look too bad to me. I would use it as a negotiating tool to get the price as low as possible, then take it to a body shop of your choosing to get it fixed. I wouldn't ask the dealer to fix it as a condition of the sale; they will take the easy way out and do a half-rump roast repair.

A shop specializing in auto upholstery is more likely to have sources for the OE material, or at least the best possible match.

I had a similar repair done to the driver's seat of my 1999 Lexus RX300. Went to an automotive upholstery shop. Very happy with the result.

Perhaps I should have made it clear that I do not have a lift; I'm doing this in the garage on jackstands.

2000 OBW, 4 cyl, automatic. I need to remove the front O2 sensor. Can someone suggest in very specific terms how to approach it, i.e., from the side, from the front, etc. Yes, I have used the search function. Yes, I have the 22mm offset O2 sensor socket. But I simply can't figure out the proper angle of approach. I had this same problem with removing the lower nut on the starter until I had a eureka moment and it was incredibly easy. Not having the same luck now. TIA.

Looks pretty decent, but get some new wheels!

Our 2000 Outback (Legacy platform) has 160K miles and no rust.