J A Blazer

I have a 2000 OBW. My guess is # 3.

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2000 OBW, 128K. I get a P420 about once a year, and a P328 (knock sensor) code about once a month, even though that sensor is only 3 years old. Is there any correlation between the two? In other words, if my knock sensor is failing (again) might it be causing the P420?

Also, be sure to install correctly; clean the threads in the engine block and the surrounding surface, torque the new knock sensor correctly, and route the connecting cable exactly as specified.

The Baja remained in production until approximately April 2006, essentially unchanged. It retained its Gen2 Outback (2000-2004) appearance although as of 2005 the Gen3 Outbacks were in production.

RockAuto sells Intermotor and Airtex for $75, and Delphi for $105. Any reason to spend the extra $30?

I am in the same boat as Johnette93, but my dealer wants more than $75 for the part. 2000 OBW 4 cyl, 128K.

Charm: I assume you mean to use a tape-player attachment, FM signal generator, or antenna intercept. None of those are as good as the direct-connect that 211 proposes.

I also have a 2000 OBW with the stock head unit and CD changer. I would welcome this information too.

Here is my advice. If you want the car negotiate the best possible price, then pay a dealer or competent well-recommended independent to do the timing belt/water pump/thermostat/idlers/tensioner. And, at that mileage you're probably well to do plugs and wires too. My number one rule on buying a used car: insist on the name of the previous owner, then call to inquire about problems. If the used-car lot or in your case Mopar dealer is unwilling or claims they are 'not allowed' to provide that information, walk away.

check this out: http://www.nationsautoelectric.com/densoparts.html I suspect that Subaru starters are made by Denso, but I don't know that for sure.

If you have the OE splashguard still in place under the engine, it has an absorbent pad that is probably intended to dampen sound, but it can catch leaks like oil, coolant, and power steering fluid that would otherwise drip on the ground and be obvious. If in place, remove it at least temporarily and see if a leak then becomes easier to detect.

I did front axles on my 2000 OBW about 2 years ago. Used MWE. Didn't have a problem getting the axle nuts off. I shipped the old axles back to MWE for a credit, which wasn't a particularly smart idea since the cost for me to ship them back was more than the credit.

Any reason that a Fumoto Oil Drain Valve with nipple, model F-105N, won't work on a 2000 4cyl OBW?

Not sure about the 2.2 but I did it on my 2.5 SOHC recently when I had to replace the radiator. Elevate the front end, e.g. on ramps. Take radiator cap off. Disconnect upper radiator hose, at the radiator. Pour coolant into the overflow tank to the 'full' mark.' Pour coolant into the block through the upper radiator hose, slowly, allowing it to 'burp' itself, until it (and the radiator) simply won't take any more. Connect the hose but leave cap off, start the car, run a few seconds, and in all likelihood you will be able to add more coolant to the radiator. Do this a few times, reinstall the radiator cap, and drive the car for 10 minutes or so. Allow to cool; remove cap; check level; repeat if necessary. This worked for me.

My 2000 OBW has one. It extends from the radiator to just behind the oil pan. It has a removeable section that makes oil changes easy without having to remove the entire splashguard. Cost about $120 new.

some sort of LoJack?

2000 4 cyl OBW, auto trans. Slight fluid leak towards rear of transmission pan. Parts dept tells me that there is no 'gasket' but that sealer is used. True? How difficult for the average DIYer to get it right? And, what sealer to use? Point me to a DIY link? TIA.

Outdoor, you been screwed. What was the resolution to this?

2000 4 cyl OBW, automatic, 125K. Radiator has just developed a crack, in the plastic near where the upper hose enters. Can someone point me to a DIY for the R&R? TIA.

My question is really based on my ignorance on what practical difference, if any, there is between the various Mobil-1 synthetic oils, all the same weight (i.e. 5W-30), being regular synthetic, high mileage (75K+), and extended performance (oil changes at 15K)? Any problems associated with switching back and forth between the various versions?

I have three cars, a 2000 4cyl OBW with 125K; a 2004 Mini Cooper with 90K; and a 1999 Lexus RX300 with 175K. I usually put 5W-30 Mobil-1 in each. I went to WalMart today to buy some of those 5 qt jugs, but all they had in the 5W-30 was the 'extended performance' which is supposed to be good for 15K change intervals. I would have preferred the regular, or the high-mileage (75K+) but no such luck. I bought one jug, not the 2 or 3 that I planned. Any reason not to put this in any (or all) of my cars?

My 2000 4cyl OBW has 125K. 2nd owner. Purchased 3 1/2 yrs and 40K ago. Shortly after I bought it the CEL came on: 328 code - knock sensor. I replaced with OE part. CEL silent for a few years but has resumed - code still 328. What is the life expectancy of these sensors? Did I likely damage it during installation? What is the secret? TIA.

I bought the $35 version from Costco and use it frequently on my 2000 Subaru and 1999 Lexus. Simple, but presently sufficient for my purposes.

In my 2000 OBW, I had the same problem. There are steps you need to take to disable the alarm, then re-enable it. Check your manual.