J A Blazer

The etrailer site is simply wrong. I spent many hours looking for mine on the driver's side, only to find it on the passenger side.

I have a 2000 OBW which should be exactly like yours. I too had trouble finding the connector but yes, it was up there, passenger side, behind the interior trim, closer to the wheel well than to the tail-light. Frankly, it is wrapped tighter and more completely than it needs to be for something that is intended to be accessed.

punch the new one in. With what?

Yes, a fair amount of rust. Would this suggest that the hub seal had gone bad? How difficult are they to replace?

2000 OBW, 110K. Am replacing front axles with MWE that should arrive soon. In removing the old ones, passenger side came out easily but driver's side wouldn't budge after removing axle nut. A few taps from a hammer made no difference. Rented a hub puller which did the job, but the axle was difficult to remove from the hub the entire distance of the splined shaft. How am I going to be able to install the new one? Will a generous application of lubricant do the trick, and if so what should I use? Or will I have to replace the hub? TIA.

Mine came from U-Haul; I think its a Draw-Tite, but I'm not sure. But what I like about is that it goes over the exhaust tip, not under.

It appears that the door windows are now framed rather than frameless, correct?

Do you have an alarm? I do, and discovered that an additional step was required in order to program the remotes I bought on eBay.

My 2000 OBW backfired so badly that it popped the clips on the air filter housing. Changed plugs and wires and air filter and the problem immediately went away.

2000 OBW, 108K. All original front suspension parts. New rotors, balanced tires. What particular front suspension parts are likely to be worn by this age, and result in clunks over bumps and a vague imprecise feel to the steering?

Be sure to check the boots (inner and outer) on both front axles. At that mileage, if they are original, they may have split and spun out all the grease.

One more question: how can I tell (either before the axle is removed, or after) whether it is OK to relube and reboot a front axle (inner boots have split, spinning the grease out) or must be replaced?

Since you just did this a few days ago, and hopefully remember how you did it, would you please answer my question? How did you drive out the pin in the inboard axle joint on the driver's side - from above, or from below? Thanks.

It appears that it is easiest to drive out the DOJ drift pin on the passenger side from above, after removing the air filter housing and snorkel. But on the driver's side, it appears that the starter is in the way of an effort to approach the pin from above. Is it possible to drive the pin out from the bottom on the driver's side?

What is the recommended torque for the knock sensor?

Yes, it was a Subaru knock sensor.

2000 OBW 108K. My CEL has been intermittently coming on, so I had my mechanic pull the code today, with the CEL on. Result: "P0328 knock sens 1 high input." What does this mean? Has the knock sensor gone bad, or is it telling me something else? I had replaced the knock sensor about 10K ago, with an OEM one from the dealer, so I would be surprised if it had failed so soon. Is it possible I damaged it during installation? TIA.

Can you point me to instructions on how to repack and reboot the inner joint without removing the hub end? Thanks.

Is a 2000 Outback wagon an EA, or an EJ? TIA.

Is the axle nut 32mm, or 36mm? I've seen it described both sizes.

Thanks for your invaluable assistance.

It appears that in order to drive out the pin on the DOJ you remove the air filter housing and approach the pin from above, correct? Is that what the series of socket extensions are for?

2000 OBW, 108K. Slightly overdue for timing belt change; 105K is the recommended interval. I removed the driver's side cam sprocket cover and inspected the belt and don't see any obvious defects. Should I put any faith at all on a belt that 'looks good' at this mileage? And, what is the bare minimum of other parts that should be replaced at the same time as the belt, so as not to unnecessarily repeat labor later on? Water pump? Cam seals? TIA.

The inner CV boot, front passenger side, has failed on my 2000 OBW. It seems to be better to replace the entire axle assembly than trying to replace just the boot. How hard a job is this for a reasonbly competent DIYer?

I had the same problem on my 2000 OBW; smelled like burning rubber. No evidence of coolant or oil leak. Close inspection revealed torn inner CV boot on passenger side. 105,000 miles.