
J A Blazer
Members-
Posts
365 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Store
Everything posted by J A Blazer
-
Here's my recent experience on a 4-cylinder 2000 OBW. Passenger side quite easy after removal of air intake plastic plumbing. Driver's side somewhat harder. First, drain windshield washer reservoir. Remove battery, then remove the reservoir; reservoir removal can be done without removing the battery but is much easier with it out of the way. No problem with plug wires on either side. Only difficulties I encountered were getting enough room to use my torque wrench, and my spark plug socket would get left behind in the plug well when I removed the ratchet and extension; friction between the socket rubber insert and the plug was, for me, greater than the friction between the socket and the extension. Solution, for me at least, seems to require two plug sockets; one with the rubber insert to capture the plug on removal, and another without the rubber insert to be used for installing the plugs, although it must be done carefully to avoid damaging the porcelain part of the plug.
-
What are the symptoms of a bad knock sensor? Mine was replaced by the previous owner about 60K or so ago. I made one interesting observation - the first time this problem occurred several days ago, after a particularly noticeable 'pop' from the engine compartment, I noticed that the center clip on the air filter box had sprung open. Related, or mere coincidence?
-
Thanks for the quick responses. Happens when car is warm. Intermittent. Wires appear to be original; plugs probably haven't been changed since 30K; fuel filter probably hasn't been changed since 30K; check engine light flickered the first time this happened several days ago and is now on steadily but I haven't pulled any codes yet. Do I have to relieve any pressure in the fuel system before changing the fuel filter? How hard is it to change the plugs?
-
Relatively new-to-me 2000 4-cyl OBW w/ 101K. I had been postponing the 90K service (other than oil & filter, transmission fluid & filter, air filter, all which I have done) hoping to combine it with the 105K timing belt service, but car is now not running right - it frequently bogs down and sounds like a mis-fire. What would most likely explanation be? Plugs, wires, fuel filter, valve adjustment, something else? I'm going to start by changing the fuel filter; any special precautions I need to take? Would also appreciate name of competent independent Subaru mechanic in Northern Virginia; I can't afford what the dealers want to charge. TIA.
-
Its quite easy. Gently pry off the faux wood console trim piece, starting at the top. I think that the shifter has to be in "D" or lower in order to accomplish this. Once that is off you will see the screws that need to be removed in order to remove the radio/cd changer from the dash. Once the screws are removed pull the assembly out far enough to reach around and remove the various wiring harnesses.