theDirtyRue

I'm living and working up at Crystal mountain this year, and too many times have I left too late only to find my locks frozen. This is no good. Especially when it's cold outside (obviously). Getting down on my hands and knees to blow on the lock to try and defrost it is getting pretty phazing. Anyway, on my last excursion down to tacoma, I was stopping by the dealership to pick up an oil filter and I thought to ask if my car maybe came with keyless entry. The guy told me that it most likely did, seeing as how it's equipped with the cold weather package. So, having just been paid, I decided to pull the trigger and buy the remote. He briefly described where this little button would be that I need to hold down to program the remote. It made sense, so I went outside and started to look for it. Up underneath where my left foot would normally rest...thirty minutes later I went back in and had him re-describe it to me. Okay, made sense still, yet I didn't see it before... Time to go back out and look again. No go. I went in once more and asked him if it might be somewhere else, and he told me no, but that it might still be taped up in the bundle of wires. Awesome. So I went and looked again, but by now it was much darker, and much colder. I had a flashlight, but nothing for the cold. I called it quits for a while. So, my question is, where exactly should I be looking for this little brown wire with a black button on the end of it? I can see a couple of little brown wires, but no button...? I've looked up under the clutch pedal like the mechanic said, and I've felt for the button in the bundles, but I can't really tell what I'm feeling. Like I said, I'm not even sure if my car came equipped with it, so it might not exsist. Is there a way I can either confirm whether or not it did? I'm open to ideas...

So I need to go ahead and do a tune up on my 98 outback... It's still running the original wires and I can only assume the original plugs... What would one suggest? I want to put good parts in there, not the cheaper napa versions (not to rag on napa). Thanks in advance,

I'm looking at a car... owner says that the Head gaskets were done by the dealership that he bought it from (said they bought it at auction). He doesn't have proof that they have been done, and its not that I disbelieve him... its just that I can't afford to take a risk in it. So, bottom line... Is there any way to tell (without having to totally tear it apart) that its been done recently? I somehow doubt that there is, but barring that this guy will let me take it to my mechanic so he can check it... I need something. And one other question... I've searched this and read up on it... Should I finally commit and purchase a car with a 2.5 (still looking at the 2.2's), how hard/ long of a job is it to do myself realistically? I'm not the best mechanic, but I think that with enough time and the right tools I can be handy... I've looked at a couple outbacks, and liked one enough to bring it to a local mechanic whose never steered me wrong only to have him tell me that the engine was over-pressurizing the coolant system, which basically means bad head gasket. Does anyone know what tool he used to tell him this? I know what to expect to have a shop do it, and I know roughly what parts would cost (obviously varying)... now I just really need a time estimate. (oh, I took it back to the dealer BTW...) Thanks again, Kyle

So same thing goes for the outback sport? Are the legacy's better than those too? I just don't really like the look of the legacy's compared to the outback's. Seems like I've been leaning towards the outback sport more now, but they're a bit difficult to come across (looking online) I was actually planning on finding a third party warranty for the engine... Thanks again...

Okay, I got a job this winter at Crystal mountain and I need very reliable car to get up and back... I'm looking for something from 97 or earlier... with less than a 100k. My price range is in between $7~8k cash. I'm looking for an outback or an outback sport. possibly a legacy GT (but probably not, they seem to be out of my price range) What I need help is in determining what is the best option for me. What should I look for when I go to check out the cars? It's my understanding that the 2.2L is a better engine than the 2.5... but I'm not really sure why . What are some common problems with the outback? Outback sport? I've noticed that the outback has a a handful of recalls. If I buy a car that hasn't had one of the things thats been recalled fixed, will I be able to have it fixed (or will it cost me a lot of money?) I'm also aware that they CAN have head gasket problems. any giveaways? Anything else you feel like sharing is greatly appreciated... Thanks! Kyle

Try being the one actually staring at the car for 20 minutes and then just asking, "What next?"

Alright so I picked up a compression tester the other day, and tried it out my friends car (his was fine). But, here's the sucky part, when I went to remove the spark plugs on my car, the two on the drivers side would NOT come out! I was able to break them loose, but then as I'm unscrewing it, it would get tighter? I gave up before I snapped one off while it was still threaded... It felt like I was just about to. Any ideas on how to get those two out? The passenger side came out no problem...

Alright. My buddy and I have a Junkyard trip planned so I'll add it to the list to try and find.

Alright, well it looks like I'm heading to Napa or something for a compression gauge tomorrow. Hopefully it will at least confirm something... thanks,

actually it doesn't overheat fast or hardly at all right now, but thats b/c there is no t-stat in it. It only overheats (and it does so gradually) if I'm sitting still. so if I leave it running wile I run inside for 10 minutes when I get back it'll be 3/4 or more. the only place I can think that I'm losing coolant is the large clouds of smoke. I'm thinking thats my coolant going bye-bye... I haven't noticed puddles anywhere.

Yes, I have been losing coolant. As far as I know, the only hoses to be replaced on it are the upper and lower. The clamps are very tight... And its a new-er radiator cap. Skip, I have thought about installing an after-market gauge, but I don't believe that mine is wrong. It Fluctuates with the weather and when its says its hot, it is... I don't think this is my problem, but I will probably add one once I get everything working well. The electric fan is hardwired on right now. It's always on. Heep70, I've been told that taking the thermostat out will only hurt it more, but if its in, it gets WAY too hot way too fast. Should I leave it in anyway? (This is my only car right now and if it goes out, I kinda get boned big time) Like I said above, I'm not too sure as to how old the hoses are. I know the upper and lower are fairly new, but I haven't replaced the others, and can only assume they are original...(sadly) As for my timing, I re-set it about four months ago, and I'm pretty dang sure its off again. My idle is very rough and low in RPMs. Yes, the thermostat was installed right side up (before I took it out) And yes, the fan is hardwired, so its on. It looks like I need to do a compression check and maybe a block check... any shop can do the block check for me right? _______________________________________________________________ That said, There are two new developments that make me further believe its a HG... Occasionally when I start the car a cloud of white smoke comes out the exhaust. I think this is condensation in the cylinders thats burning off? The other thing that I found is the stuff on my oil cap. It's got the milky brown look goin on, which makes me believe that water is getting into my oil which would be HG right? Sorry for taking so long to get back to the thread, and thanks for the help...

Thats a pretty rad picture, but I'd like to see some more of the red one in the background there... I've actually loaded my 'Ru up with some wood for camping, but it didn't compare to this. I didn't have it stacked on the roof or coming out the sunroof... That takes talent/balls to actually drive down the road loaded up like that!

So now the 86 GL is my daily driver...and its still over heating. I replaced the thermostat, nothing. I replaced the water pump, a little better but still way hot. I replaced the radiator with one from the junkyard, and i thought it fixed the problem, but then the hotter weather rolled around and it started to get hot on the highway. So, b/c I had to head to idaho for a week, I went ahead and bought a brand new radiator. I installed it AND another new thermostat and then it started to get hot just sitting and driving around town. So , b/c I had to go to Idaho, I just took out the thermostat and went on. So now I am thermostat-less and it still gets hot when it sits for long periods of time. The only other things that I can assume are the cause of my problem would be a blown head gasket or cracked head. So, is there anything else that could be causing this? If not, how much should I expect to pay/put aside time wise to do this myself? How much would it cost to have fixed (I don't know if I have the time to do it myself)? thanks,

So I've always wondered... what's the advantages of not using timing belt covers? Zip tie idea sounds pretty good though...

Well, My solution was short-lived... (BTW, this is now my daily driver) The radiator that I threw in the car wasn't good. It only seemed good b/c of the colder temperature outside. Now that summer has rolled around, it started getting hot again. So, since I had to get over to Idaho for a weekend a while ago, I replaced the radiator and thermostat again. Well, this now instead of getting hot on the highways, it gets hot sitting still and around town. Kinda frustrating. I'm pretty much positive that its either the head gaskets or a cracked head. I'm currently running no thermostat and just straight water, cause it leaking somewhere and its pointless to put coolant in it. Filled with straight water it still runs below normal operating temp, but as it leaks, obviously it gets hotter. Oh, and now the Passenger side CV is clicking and in dire need of replacement, and its leaking oil. I can't determine where from though. Basically I've got a lot of work to do on this in the next month or so... So, after all that, my question is, how hard/expensive is it to replace the head gaskets. That seems to be the next logical repair to me (am I wrong?) and it needs to be done pretty soon I should think. Also, how can I tell if its a cracked head or blown gasket? Thanks,

If the radiator truly is your problem, then you can easily find one online for cheap... I've found them for under $60... but I needed it before the shipping would get it here so I had to purchase one locally... but I think the website is http://www.importedcarparts.com Go to their parts directory and its pretty simple from there.

hmm...I'll try and track that place down tomorrow. Thanks. Any other places anyone can suggest?

Hey people, I need to replace my radiator. I'd like to get it done before Friday, and that shouldn't be a problem as long as I can find one locally that I can afford. I've found them on-line for as little as $55, but it wouldn't get here in time, so, I'm gonna have go local. So anyways, Anybody know where I can pick up a new radiator for fairly cheap thats local? All suggestions are appreciated and the sooner the better...

Update here, I went to pick up my car from the ahop, and asked a cuople of questions. He mechanic told me that there is a set of clutches inside the transmissions that are going bad. I was gonna haave it towed home, but he told me to just go ahead and drive it (less then 5 miles) and take the sharp corners easy. So I did, and in the sharp ones just threw it into neutral. Anyways, after talking to him, I kinda believe him. Not sure my car is worth the money to put a new tranny in, though. If I did replace it, I still have to fix the wreck damage (another $700). But, does the bad clutches make sense to anyone else, or does anyone have experience with them? I didn't know they were there, but I don't know much about awd. As for this fuse, can I put it in and leave it in and drive it as FWD? The guy told me that MAYBE I could judt disconnect the drive shaft and put in a plug or something...? Would this work? kinda skeptical about it... Thanks again,

Hmm, Might have to try the lucas stuff... But with my car, it only "grabs" for lack of a better word on the passenger saide and it doesnt hop forward after placing it in park. I just dont get it. My understanding about rear ends is very limited. Especially on subarus...Just kinda frustrating right now. Lots goin on, not lots o money (when is there these days?) and just makes me mad not knowing about what wrong with it. Frustrating.

Okay, well, Sorry I didnt back sooner, but anyway... To answer your question, no it didn't surge forward after putting it in park. But, I crawled under there and noticed that a nut had gone missing and that the bolt had almost fallen out. Got a replacement on that hoping that it was just putting stress on the axle or diff, but that didntr help at all. So realizing this is a much bigger task then I'm able to undergo right now (small garage, VERY limited tools, and even less free time), I had AAA tow it to a shop nearby that always has signs outside for CV work. I got a call back from them today saying that I need a new transmission, and that it'll cost $2500. Yeah, not gonna do that. Doesn't make any sense to me how my trannny could be bad. Plus, the car was less than $2000 So I'm going to call anther shop my step dad knows and see if they are willing to take a look-sy. Any other ideas as to what my problem is?

I'm liking this idea... Someone refered me to search torque bind, but so far, haven't found anything useful yet... Off to search some more!

Okay, I've crawled under, looked around, and I still cant figure anything out. What its doing: When I turn the car (either way) it seems like something is trying to lock up the right rear wheel. It's only the right side too, which is why i think it might be the axle... I don't know how else t odescribe it. It's very obvious when your in the car, or outside looking at the wheel. I don't want to tear into the rear diff just to have nothing wrong with it. I can't afford to mis-diagnose this one. MY question is, does anyone know what (or where) my problem is? Feel free to ask me some more questions, and I'll answer them as best I can... All help is appreciated. I already know this is gonna hurt the account...

Alright, thanks. It's gonna have to wait until I get to Idaho. I'm sure I know where it is, so it shouldn't be a problem when I get the time to do it. I just got thru changing the oil. After loking at it, it didn't really need it, but o well. It's one less thing I have to do later. Thanks again. You guys have been a real help. I know my way around the ea 82 series fairly well, but I'm kinda lost with the legacy...

Thanks, Actually what was holding me up was the trim peice around the lever to open the door. Once I popped that off, I was able to get the panel off. Now after a little hammer work you can open and close the door pretty easily. It still looks like garbage but its operational! Thanks again,