torxxx

No they are not. Parts stores wouldnt sell their premium parts with nuts that would rattle off. I'm not talking about the castle nut on the axle. I'm talking about the castle nut on the bottom of the ball joint.. I've been using those for 2 years and have had no problems with them coming loose. NyLocks are designed for that reason. The nylon that is pressed into the nut stops the vibration from rattling the nut loose.

do this. goto napa, ask for the ball joint. take it over to the rack with the hand tools on it. Look for the 15 dollar pickle forks. It should be the smaller of the two or three they will have. Either way, size it up with the new ball joint. Use a BFH and two hits the balljoint should be out. I broke the stud off on my wagon one time changing ball joints and I ended up taking a sawzall and cutting the stud down flush on both sides of the control arm. Then drilling the stud down a 1/4" so I could get a piece of Stainless steel rod in there.. Put it in a vice and pounded the hell out of the stud. Took a long time, but it came out. After I was all done with the work, I asked my parents if they'd ever changed the balljoints on the car and they said not that they could remember.. so that balljoint had been in the car for 10 years or longer. As for the pin, when I replace a balljoint at work, I just cut the pin flush with the castle nut and then impact the nut off. Comes right off and then you dont have to fight the pins out. Now they are making Nylock nuts that replace the castle nut. No more need for cotter pins. WOOHOO..

Got to thinking, since I'm raising/stiffening the rear suspension, I better do the front too. What spring upgrades are available to EA82 series? I was thinking forrester or outback springs would work, but I havent compared the size of the spring seats and length. I dont have access to XT6 parts so I can't do the 5 lug conversion so I can use legacy struts. What about using all impreza suspension (knuckle, balljoint, tierod, strut, axle with EA82 inner DOJ converted)? By looking at the extra movement that is there without having a sway bar, I think that an inch longer strut or spring would be workable without breaking axles. what do you guys think?

Alright I got my 89 Accord Front springs, and a new set of rear strut cartridges. I searched the board looking for pictures of the conversion and could only find dead links and full car pics. I'm wondering about the bottom of the springs. I remember seeing somewhere that a member had to cut a notch in the spring seat so the spring would sit flat. Anyone have a picture of that? or can fill me in on what needs to be done? Also, anyone have a napa/carquest/Shucks M&0 part number for the top cap/bushings kits for the rear struts? thx in advance

Well after looking at numbchuxs posts about the diff spacer he got and then looking at SRJlift.com, I decided that my lifted rig needed one on the diff bracket. I used 1 1/2" square tubing. took about 20 minutes to get the holes drilled big enough (using my lil dewalt drill bit kit.) Primed the spacers up used 5 1/2 inch long M12's I believe. They are the same size as the stock bolts, just coarse thread. Cost me about 15 bucks to make the stuff and 10 min to install. I'll try to get some pics of it up this weekend. I reccomend this mod for ANYONE who has a AA high clearance lift on their rigs. 1 1/2 will make your rear diff sit completely level instead of having the front up a inch or two higher than the rear. It seemed to take a lil bit of bind out of the driveshaft. MY VLSD seems to lock up quicker. My rear diff no longer slams on the bottom of the body when I accel hard in 4wd.

hehe to the guy that said keep your oem coil in the trunk. I got 3 of them in my trunk. Along with my two alternators, 2 spare axles. hehe I keep way too many spare parts in my car

well no, but the fact that I've done it before made me think one more time wouldnt hurt. lol Oh yea, EA82 wagon is what I drive. Sorry for not mentionin that scott

My accel coil lasted 3 months. Bought a MSD Blaster 2 coil, works like a dream. Been there for a year now

I've only snapped the actual axle shaft once. I passed a buddy of mine, locked em up, and while I was still sliding forward, I dumped the clutch in reverse at 4 grand. WHHAP, felt something hit the floorboards. Jumped out and looked and I broke the axle about 2 inches from the outer DOJ. All the other axle failures I've had were stripping the DOJ out after driving with blown boots for 6 months. I have yet to break an axle with my lift on. 3 boots are torn, have been all winter and they still arent making noise. Blown and bent rear struts prolly have something to do with a lowered axle angle.. heh, I should change those

Anyone have a source for these? I spent all day yesterday trying to find some in town, and I basically found out that Alaska doesnt stock or sell any of those lil spring clips. EA81 and EA82 clips are the same, while legacy clips are a lil longer, but they can by but down to fit. If someone has some extras they wanna get rid of, I'll pay cash for em.

Tycho put them on his loyale wagon

I'd go with the Madza GTX Its a 323 with 4 wheel disc brakes, AWD and a turbo. I've raced against one on the ice track and all I can say is wow

yes chevy/yota 6 lug rims will fit the hubs if you redrill them

so I take it the 85/86 N/A Spyder is different than what would go on a 87.5 RX coupe?

hell yea. good work :headbang:

nice work dude. I love that tool. Gonna have to get you to make me one up and I'll pay for it

Yes and that reason is to make a Timing belt swap take an hour instead of 10 minutes like you can do with the covers off

We have what looks to be a 98 legacy touring wagon in the shop right now. I didnt notice it until I pulled a reg legacy wagon up next to it and then it brought out the raised roof on the 98. I have never seen a EA82 touring wagon. I dont think many of them were sold in alaska.

trimming and banging = 31" if you have the right backspacing on the rims Snowman has 27" on his car with a 3 inch lift and he told me there was some spots that had to be pounded in. AA claims that you can fit 29.5 swampers on with out anything major, but I dont see that happening with out sticking the tires out 3 inches farther then they are stock

If they got their steering shaft problems solved, the lift is completely bolt on. They sent me the wrong steering shaft so I had to cut mine and have it welded. You will also need to cut and weld the pitchstopper from the engine to the firewall. Raid hoses will be need to be addressed also. I will try to get you a part number for the flex hose I used on mine. It was like 8 bucks at napa and its got the wire spiralled on the inside to stop kinking. As for the lower raid hose, you can just cut off some of the existing hose and it will mate up. One other thing, your coil wires will need to be extended, along with the grounds for the engine and the tranny. Other than everything I listed, the lift is bolt on.

those loose wires were the problem. They are supposed to be unhooked. The green connector is a test mode and kicks your fuel pump and and off at 1/2 sec intervals. The white connector is a read mode connector which is used for pulling codes off the ECU The flashing of the CEL is a OK. they do that if everythign checks out on them

any turbo EA82

it should be fine. Thats where we store the tubes of urethane to keep them warm for installing windows. I'll mist the mounts down twice a day to keep a lil moisture in em

I got 3 D/R tranny's sitting outside the back door of my shop. There are 2 decent sets of mounts there. I'm willing to pull them and mail em if you will pay the postage. Let me know I was looking at cleaning them up and squirting urethane inbetween the rubber and the metal and letting it dry on the furnace for a day to stiffen them up. k What do you guys think?

Yes holmes that is correct. I usually fill up, drive to delta (105 miles away) and fill back up. take miles driven and divide by gallons burned