torxxx

heh, I dont really know about 250 hp at the wheels. I messed my DR up with a stock EA82 carb'd engine. I blew two teeth off the 4lo gear. It will work, its just a matter of how long that tranny lasts. Superman had x-ray vision but he's dead so who knows how long a DR will last. WJM is the guy to talk to about that

Check the little plate on the bottom of the engine bellhousing. it is held on with two 10 mm bolts. Just unhook the exhaust and unhook the engine mounts and pick up the front of the engine 3 inches with a engine hoist. right at the x-member there will be plate. It will bend up into the teeth on the torq converter and make a nasty noise. I did that last week on my car when I did the clutch

alaska is 168 bucks for reg and tags for 2 years

Alright - thats a long term solution I'll have to look into it for future work. I'm wondering if the previous owner has the coil hooked up wrong? it seems like the coil sparking to the ECU would make the fuel pump relay click like it does..

yes the o-ring trick does work. I've never had a lifter go bad on any of the EA motors I've worked on. It is always the oil pump seals, or the oil pump itself. My engine ticked horrible for 2 years, I replaced the seals twice and that didnt fix it. Bought a new oil pump, problem solved. I get 65 PSI at crusing speed down the highway and about 80 at start up and 35 at idle.

bump....

I have a POS 86 XT MPFI non turbo at work right now. The two relays on the left side behind the stereo at clicking when I rev the engine up. I pulled all the trim and everything out so I can get to all the wires. Problem is with the relay with the black connector and the one with the brown connector. I figure they are Ignition relay and Fuel pump relay. They have a black with white striped wire jumping between the two relays. It looks factory so I think thats the way its supposed to be. Now the car wont stay running at an idle. And when I rev the engine up the clicking happens more often (from the brown connector relay) And when the clicking happens the ECS light flashes on for about a 1/2 second. I have both haynes and chiltons manuals on subarus and they dont really have the right diagrams for the 86 XT non turbo. Anyone have any ideas on how to fix this thing, please let me know.

throw out bearing was replaced this fall due to a banshee squeal it developed. I just started it for the first time this morning, and it seems to be working fine I'm going to change over to synthetic today and see if that keeps it quiet Numbchux- thanks for the heads up on the forrester DR job. I havent kept track of it since it was done. I beleive that he most likely had tranny problems with that because the backlash and shims were used right when it was rebuilt. I've talked to quite a few tranny shops and they say that even with the simple rear end LSD conversion, the backlash has to be right or you will toast a LSD unit and be back to open diff.

numbchux, can u point me in the direction of what you heard against phantom? I'd like to read into it and see what the problems were. Anyways, my tranny stopped ticking. I guess that bearing must still have a lil life left in it. Anyone else have any ideas on what woulda made that noise? it was revolution based ticking coming from the front of the tranny. When I push the clutch in, the noise would stop. (meaning it was a moving part in the tranny, when the clutch is in, the part stops moving) I put a brand new subaru flywheel, pressure plate, pilot bearing and clutch disc in after it started makin noise because I thought it was the pilot bearing. It made noise for about a day and a half and then it stopped. I've never heard of bearings making noise and then stopping, so its got me wondering

bump bump... thats the sounds comin from my trunk

I imagine they swap over like legacy seats do. You gotta drill 4 holes in the bottom of the seat to mount the older style seat rails onto them. You will need 4 nuts and bolts to go with it. I put a 96 legacy seat in my EA82 wagon. It took 5 minutes.

Well, I seemed to have destroyed my input shaft bearing on my lifted wagon. I'm going to be putting another tranny in it, and I'm thinking about upgrading to Phanton grip LSD in the front. Has anyone other than Mudrat done this conversion? If so, what all is involved? Like should I pay a tranny specialist to install it, or can I add the pieces that is needed? Also, how do you think its going to handle, having phantom grip LSD in the front and VLSD in the rear?

well, I'd be the mechanic for the north end of the trip

I am buying a wrecked SVX from a buddy of mine. Its a '92. The tranny was rebuilt professionally in the last 5 years. It has new struts all the way around, new rear wheel bearings. Bad news is that it is Hit fairly hard in the rear passenger corner of the car. Pretty much smashed in just at the tail light, but it wrinkled the fender up to the rear tire. Has anyone replaced a rear 1/4 panel on one? If so , time involved and a price paid for the replacement part would be nice. Also it has a decent oil leak on it. Are these 3.3L engines designed the same as a EJ22, with 2 extra cylinders? I'm trying to get an idea on what problems with oil leaks these engines have. Also any other problematic areas on the caR?

1985-1989 RX coupe and sedan <--------clutch type 91 Legacy SS (turbo) <----------- viscious LSD

20 years in the family on my 86 GL wagon. I was 3 years old when my mom bought the car. it was the first car I drove. When I was 8 years old, I would go rally the sooby down the driveway when it would rain. Got that thing covered in mud quite a few times before I got my license

I think the turbo coils are different. I know on EA82s the turbos have a ignitor or something that attaches to the bracket on the coil and is wired into it. You might be able to use a N/A coil as long as you have that ignitor. Someone else jump in and help me out

fbh thanks man that makes sense. I can see how the ridges in the SPFI intake would make problems with air swirling into the carb. I guess I'm looking for a bolt on filter straight to the carb like the weber guys run. Is the neck of the hicrappy carb the same size as a weber?

I agree

you need a 25 spline axle. tell them that. have them pull up a axle for a 88 turbo wagon with a automatic. that should be the right one. The axle they gave you was a N/A Loyale which is a 23 spline axle

i'm about ready to do that. I unplugged the PVC lines from the air intake and plugged the holes, and I took the clamp off the MAF side of the intake. it seems to be doing better, but not like it does with the open carb. This creates a bigger problem for the snorkel conversion I was gonna do. If the carb can't suck enough air through a 2 foot rubber hose, how in the hell am I gonna get it to suck through 6 feet of PCV pipe?

Tex, I'm having the same problems. My sister subscribed me in June of 05, and I still havent gotten a copy..

I honestly DO NOT see a reason for this tool. I've done over 200 timing belt swaps and have never needed one. There may be a certain torq number for new and old belts, but the question is, does it really matter? With my open covers and lifted wagon, I dont really care if I snap a timing belt. it takes about 10 minutes to put a new set on.

Yeah I got a bunch of holes in the bottom of the airbox. It sucks cuz I wanna run it without the filter because it runs so much better.

So I've been testing my SPFI air intake I put on my carb'd EA82. With the air intake and air box from a SPFI Ea82 with the pcv lines hooked up to the air intake, I notice a lot of resistance around 3500 RPMS. It lags really bad and then after about 4100 RPMS it pulls like a champ. Either the PCV lines going directly into the air intake is oiling the carb passage and intake and causing the engine to run like crap. Or could it be that the SPFI air intake is too long and the filter is too much for a carb to pull air through. I have a brand new WIX air filter in the airbox. When I run with the air intake completely unhooked, I get good power all the way to red line.. One constant pull, not start, lag then go like it is with the air intake hooked up correctly. So what are my options here? I had a cone filter on it 2 years ago, hooked to the SPFI air intake and it seemed to work alright, other than the fact that the filter was simply too small. Maybe I need to get one of those wanna be ricer air intake fans? lol Either way, muddin season is coming up and I need to have filtered air going into my engine. Gimme some ideas please