torxxx

No they are subaru's cousin now. This fall Yota bought out General Motors 40% share in Fuji Industries

rear diff for the back and the lil plate that covers the bottom of the engine cross member for using a floor jack on it. As for the front, there should still be "subaru frame rails" the jack stands will go there. And for the back, I'd use the control arm...

Napa...

EA82 Carb'd.... Foolproof engine minus the t-belts... no damn injector or computerized crap to go wrong with it. And I like how much quieter my EA82 runs than the rest of the EA81's in Alaska. (With the exception of Northguy's Brat.. Damn that thing is cherry)

One of them is a GL-10 one of them just says subaru where the GL-10 badge should be.

Is it DOHC or SOHC?

D/R was available in turbo wagons. I have two of them sitting at the shop. one is a 86 and one is a 87. Both part time 4wd

89-94 legacys Napa with the core axle was like 60 bucks for a reman'd. New was 15 bucks more

dont drive it like that. its gonna be dangerous as hell. I drove my car 100 miles like that one time because I blew out the two back tires and my spares were smaller. Made for one scary drive home. Because its on snow, you dont feel binding, you slide all over the ************ing place and can't control it

ok heres what I've found out with trying it on my car. 85-86 87-89 have different wiring on the steering columns. what you would need to do, is keep your column you have now, add a power steering rack and you will have to use the steering shaft extention (ujoint piece) from the power steering rack. This will work with your older column. The lengths of the columns are the same from 85-94 from what I know.

bent rim or rim out of balance..????

thank you for agreeing that the alignment is not affected by doing an axle by unbolting the strut. It is the cheapest way. You start undoing tierods and balljoints and you'll end up replacing those parts.

No need to take off the bottom ball joint. just unbolt the strut from the knuckle assembly. There will be more than enough room to push the axle through the knuckle with just the strut unhooked

that sucks man. Hope you get it going again in the spring

Run it down to a 1/4 tank of gas and dump in 4 or 5 bottles of the red HEET it'll pass

thanks for reminding me about that noah. I've been meaning to call them and get the stuff. And yes, I will be using the 5 spd. D/R with a WRX clutch plate and RX pressure plate

BFH take care of the x-member problem?

after I take the rear LSD, engine, wiring harness, exhaust hell you can have the rest.. The guy said the car was hit in the left side, so I imagine its all ************ered up

it should be in the retro fitting, but I think it'll get more of a response in here.

Well, it looks like I just scored a 92 legacy turbo sedan from a board memeber. What all is involved in making a ej22t fit into my GL wagon? I'm assuming its the same as doing the ej22 swap. Anyone who's done it, hit me up.

You can get to teh oil pump where the mickey mouse seal is by pulling the raidiator, and and taking the timing belt covers off. There will be more than enough room to do it. I changed mine from the bottom of the car, but you can do it from standing position too

Yea I run usually 30 laps straight on our ice track and I havent had any problems with total lack of oil pressure

I'ma dig up this old thread... Problem: BAD UJOINTS on rear drive line or bad bushing on rear diff hangers

I Shift on the fly up and down from hi to lo. You just gotta be easy on it and match the gear speed. If you are gonna shift to 4lo from 4hi 1st gear you need to be in 3rd gear before you put it in 4lo to match up the gear speeds to your tire speeds. Shifting from 4lo to 4hi works just fine, just hold the clutch down and it'll shift right out of lo to hi