torxxx

kinda crappy pics cuz its dark out

its an 87. I think 87.5 was the crossover so he could have the old disty

Soon as I find the cable for the computer I will send a few. Its done now. The replacement struts for the back that I found were an inch longer than the ones that were on the car, so it sits a little higher than I though it would. I still need to figure out something with the steering shaft adapter. From looking at a power steering rack vs the manual rack that I have, I think they sent me the wrong adapter. I have a two piece steering shaft from the firewall to the rack. A power steering has one piece. Glad its done. So are my hands which are cut and bruised to hell.

Well got to the back end of the lift. Everything is going fine there except for the fact I have 2 snapped rear springs... I wonder how long they've been like that.

steering shaft is getting us now. it seems like the extention I got might be too long? or does the whole ujoint assembly go from the firewall to the stubshaft on the rack? but then it is too short. The only thing I'm guessing is that I have a part missing or I'm an idiot... Probably the second one

Alright well with a little changing to the instructions, I got the tranny spacers in. Put the engine x-member spacers in first, to pull everything forward. Now the tranny spacers lined up enough that I could get all the bolts in. The drivers side spacer is off by a 1/4" its on the tranny crossmember bolt so I dont think it will be a problem. Man the threads into the body of the car sure are crappy.. rusty had to use a 2 foot breaker bar to get em up the last 1/2"

ummm you need to change the tierod. the balljoint boot looks ripped but depending on how long its been ripped you still might be able to drive on it. as for thump thump thump, that I dont know. when my balljoints go out, I notice side to side movement in the steering. Tierods I would notice when I hit a pothole. Do you have any ripped axle boots? If so, it could be an axle you could ahve had a ball bearing slip in its grooves and bind up fall out of the DOJ and then it would be quiet for a while. Had that happen last fall.. drove 100 miles home from a hunting trip after it stopped making noise, then it snapped on the way to work that monday. just some idears

why didnt they keep the drain plug on the EA82 motors?

they say 60,000 but if the belts arent OEM Subaru, I say every 30-40,000 miles cuz they stretch out. Drive em til they break, just make sure you know how to replace them and have a spare set on hand

Miles - I ran into this problem last winter. Some kid cold started his car, rev'd the crap out of it and popped a valve like you've listed. Exact same deal. I ended up having to scrap the motor because the valve put a crack in the top of the piston, bent the hell out of the valve and messed the guide up. I got a new straight valve and it wouldnt go into the guide at all. You sure that "water" mark on the piston isnt a valve mark from the valve hittin the piston when it was TDC?

well thats what I needed to know what the ecu is sayin. If you have a bad injector, it will give you an injector code My car did the same thing you've listed when I had a bad crank angle sensor

heh, got a question for ya CO guys.. Anyone wanna kick the *************** out of my brother in law for me? He lives at Fort Carson, treated my sister real bad.. It'd save me a lot of time if someone down there will do it. hehhe

heh, I had the same problems first check the ecu for codes... then post back (its in the trunk on the passenger side)

yeah we used one. Heres some suggestions to the makers of AA lift parts is make sure all your parts fit before shipping them out. They dont have to be installed on a car, just the holes need to line up You'll need the strut caps, and the tranny x-member bracket, so you can see if the stuff thats welded is centered up where its supposed to be, or if it slid or moved while it was being burned. And dont use a cutting torch to burn holes. Use a drill press. All the stuff looks good until you look at the jagged holes that were made on the front strut extentions. AND get the holes centered so they line up with the factory holes. I had to do some major prying to get the top of the strut spacer bolted up.

well thats exactly my point. because of the updated part, I think it makes it more of a PITA because if the holes arent drilled EXACTLY centered, you cant get the bolts all the way through the bracket and the spacer. One thing I did do that made it go easier was put the engine x-member spacers in last night in the dark. Made the tranny x-member slide forward about 2 inches making it a lot eaiser to line everything up. Soon as the sun comes up I'm gonna go battle with it again.

I may be able to file down one or two of the holes in the bracket to make it fit but I'm not sure what thats going to do to my alignment on the tranny and radius rod.

Well we started today at 2:30 pm and its now 8:30 pm. Everything went good till we got the tranny spacer brackets. The holes in the AA spacer dont line up with the factory holes in the bracket or the bottom of the car. So my car sits for the night.

get a new oil pump. I messed around with changing HLA's for two years.. bought a new oil pump and it fixed the problem. I get 70 psi at 3000 rpms

carquest and shucks m&o both had clutch kits for EA82s cars for 150 bucks this last spring and winter... just an idea.. they come with pressure plate, clutch disc, throwout bearing and pilot bearing

No WD40 is NOT a lubricant. It stands for water discplacement formula #40 That is why it doesnt last. why dont people understand that? all its good for is getting water out of locks and distys

Yes you are correct. Only Turbo'd motors have them. I think there is a one wire knock sensor and a two wire knock sensor and the difference is on the years of turbo EA82s. the early ones had a single wire and the newer ones had a two wire knock sensor. or it could be the other way around. its located on the back of the top of the block below the pitch stopper on just on the passenger side of the middle of the block

yeah I love that lift. keeps the tranny up inside the car instead of lowering it. Me and my cousin were talking about lifts and making a new style lift up. There has to be some sort of way to make a shackle for the control arms to the engine crossmember. to make more suspension travel and more controlled like on a linkage swingarm on a dirtbike. Another idea is hydaulic steering. No steering column at all. It would use a juicebox and a steering wheel and then there would be hydraulic lines running down to rams that would be placed where the rack and pinion is whatya doin

you'll need the crossmember from the turbo car, the crosspipe, up and downpipes, turbo, wiring harness, complete intake.. oh yea forgot to mention dual port heads so the turbo intake will bolt on

Man, I gotta go to iceland and rally my car.. looks fun there that legacy on 44's is the poop