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dont talk to a customer or someone else at work while putting on timing belts, or torquing head bolts. Sucks when you remember that you didnt do something right after the engine is back in the car, or the timing belt covers are back on and the car wont start..

for a supposed new motor, thats messed up.. I'd be getting my money back along with another good engine for them wasting my time.

They are thermo activated I believe.

Right on. Thanks for all the info. Gonna have a good weekend project. Just got some new rubber on the car along with the H-alloy rims (blew out two tires this weekend in our 500 miles of wide open rallying). I'm still undecided on the grinding part. I'm hoping I dont, but if I do: Dr. RX - what did you use to grind it? die grinder, or dremel tool? or a grinding bit on a cordless drill?

Got my LSD in the mail the other day. Thanks Snowman. Looked over the "Frequently Asked Questions about how to upgrade, lift, shoe your Soob for wheeling." write up by Zap. I got a spare diff from work, and I'm going to bring it home tonite and start ripping it apart. The LSD will be going in the car in my sig My questions so far: 1. Will I be using my 3.9 stub axles and NOT the ones on the LSD unit that I have? or the other way around.. stub axles stay with the LSD unit? (Basically I dont want to have to run turbo 25 spline axles) 2. Looking at the LSD unit, I dont see where the E-10 torx bolts are to take off the stub axles. lil help here? 3. Because I got just the LSD unit (and not the diff carrier) I'm not going to be able to compare the two cases. Where am I going to grind on my 3.9 case? All comments appreciated

yea you wont hurt anything having the cams not lined up right. They are non-interference motors. I'm not sure why the t-belts are made out to be such a big deal. These motors are 10x easier to do t-belts on than a EJ22 and they only have one t-belt.

sounds like your voltage regulator in the alternator is shot. How many volts does it run? and does the voltmeter go up past 14 volts when you rev it up?

for the price, just get used heads..

yup he's right about just puttin in another axle.. its worth the 50 bucks for a reman'd axle. lifetime warranty on the axle, year on the boot. For now, drive it til it snaps. its not going to hurt anything axle grease is nasty.... its 10x easier to just pop the axle off and a new one on than cleaning up all the old grease to take the axle apart and then putting the boot on and regreasing it is a PITA also.

anyone that wants any kind of salmon from Southeast Alaska, let me know. I'll be up to my neck in them all summer...

Well my roomates brat runs again thanks to Matt. You saved the day more then once, and I just wanted to thank Northguy and everyone else on the board who has helped me through the last year. Nice to know we have a support group for us subaru addicts.. To make things better I pulled a Bronco out tonite sunk to the front and rear diff in really soft mud... once pull came right out.. got a handshake from a guy watchin. said hes never seen a subaru pull something that big, stuck that bad! Lol.. Anyways, thanks again guys

that'd be me. all you do is remove the carb airbox and clamp the SPFI air intake on top of the carb.. might take some trimming on the bottom ring of the air intake. You want the hose clamp flush with the end of the air intake boot and the carb (cut the bottom ring off 1/8 to 1/4 ") install the airbox on the passenger side where the holes are already drilled and tapped.. rerun your pcv lines to the air intake and the pcv valve and you are done

correct

sounds like a wire came off or corroded away. my car did the same thing. stuck on empty. replaced the sender, and the gauge and it still didnt work. so I ran new wire from the sender to the back seat and Tee'd into the wiring harnes..fixed er right up

Right on man. Thank you for the info I'm going to look into it. Only problems is the winters up here where I live. It gets down to -60 F in the middle of January for about a month. Thinkin the stuff will start freezing uo

LPGsuperchargedBrumby you got a write up on how to make you sooby run on LPG? I like the idea of it. How many miles/pound do you get? also Thanks

with a Dual Range 5 speed from a 85-89 GL wagon would make the loyale go everwhere the brat will. I've driven probably 100 different EA82 cars and I still HATE the single range. Seems way more gutless then my 86 carb'd D/R wagon

I'll second the MSD Blaster Coil. Had an accel, burned out. Blaster works a lot better (cleaner idle)

Well, prolly gonna get flamed for this post, but oh well... Saw somewhere on the board that one of the SVX's for sale had partial rear wheel steering. The rear tires turned up to 6 degrees left or right. Is this a stock setup on ALL SVX's or an option or a aftermarket deal?

hmmm that sounds like what my roommates brat did. He drove it all winter like that before it crapped out on him. We ended up replacing the carb. Sounds like you float is sticking shut until the car warms up all the way. Perhaps a carb swap (only 4 10 mm nuts) or a carb rebuild. Maybe others will chime in and help me out here.

Snowman also did the mod. I'm guessing he got 2 to 2 1/2 inches of lift from them. really gave it the cheese wedge look

giving us more info in the motor would be useful.. carb spfi or mpfi (with or without turbo)

Thats good to hear you got it fixed Josh.

There is writeups about both cam timing and ignition timing in the USRM - Repair and Mod Section http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/article.php?c=1

Compression test numbers - all cylinders should be with in 10% of each other. Usually EA82 numbers on a SPFI/carb block is around 130-140 psi