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Matt - Did you get that tranny yet? If not, I'm gonna have to to back to FBKS and choke some people....

5/16 is the size I used when I replaced my fuel lines...

Well I finally got down to Juneau to see my 100 dollar car (birthday present from my mom) Awesome lookin car. I love the dark blue subaru used in 86. After a lil bit of brake work, it drives like a charm. The board member I got the car from must have drove the car for a year with BAD front brake pads. The drivers side rotor was wore down to paper thin. One hit with a hammer and I shattered it. Caliper was seized up, holding it all the way out, dragging the brake on that side. Picked up a used caliper for 20 bucks from the only "Subaru" guy down here. New rotor and pads and it was good to go. I still gotta bleed the brakes cuz I was by myself when I did the work, but other then that, its ready to get on the Alaska Marine Highway and get shipped to Petersburg, where it will serve as my deer hunting rig and grocery getter while I am on the fishing boat this summer. One question about these MPFI non turbo motors. What is the HP and TQ ratings on the engines? It seems WAY peppier then SPFI engines and my modded carb engine. I'm guessin 10 hp more then the SPFI? It also looks like the redline is higher then my carb'd engine. Oh yea, if anyone had a spare drivers side door window switch, lemme know, I need one.

me and my roomate got to talking about how we are gonna fit bigger rims on our rigs when we get done lifting this summer. He wants to do the drill out for yota rims. I'm sayin screw redrilling. Why can't I fit Ford or Chevy 1 ton rims on it? the 10 to 12 lug rims. has anyone tried sizing them up to see if they would fit with out redrilling the rims or hubs?

as for the lowering the brat. American versions of the brat have some sort of a torsion bar in the back in the EA81 motor style of the brat. The front struts should have 2 adjuster nuts on the bottom of the coil springs on each strut. I'm pretty sure you could crank them down and it would lower the brat.

A buddy of my called me up today asking me if I'd do a clutch job on his wife's 99 Legacy. I have never done any motor work on the interference ej22. I think his is a SUS legacy too. What exactly does that mean? I've done head swaps on Gen 1 Ej22 motors and they seem pretty simple. Should I expect any problems or hang ups on doin the newer legacy clutch? Do they use a hydraulic clutch or cable pulled clutch? How much time is gonna be involved for someone who knows subarus's fairly well? Exhaust bolts, engine mount, bellhousing bolts, pull raid,un hook heater core lines jack up tranny, side motor forward? I leave this weekend for the summer, could use the money before I go. If I can do the job in a half a day or so, should be good to go on it. thanks in advance

It has 1 2 and 3. Its an automanual for those 3 gears. Notice the +/- signs. At a stop you put the shifter all the way down and it goes into 1st gear. then you bump the shifter into the + spot and it goes to 2nd and bump it again and it goes into 3rd.

My roomates brat melted the ASV silencer and all the hoses today on the drivers side. Now the exhuast is blowing through the ASV port. Now they are air suction valves, so they are supposed to suck into the exhaust. What caused the Vavle to start blowing exhaust into the airbox? I'm thinking just taking off the pipe out of the exhaust port and welding the pipe shut and putting it back on. Any ideas to get it fixed up? I'm leaving for the summer at the end of the week, and I wanna try to have it fixed for him before I go. thanks guys

replace anything that is bent. do not try to bend it back with a hammer. Those are critical parts of the front suspension. the stabilizer arm needs to be replaced, possibly the control arm itself because I think its gonna be a lil twisted.

I may be in Longview this fall/winter. What would you charge to build me something like your hatch if I buy the car, pay parts and labor and help you build it?

If something like what was going to work, I think you'd have to use EJ18 heads. But thats still going to leave problems with the cooling and oil passages that run through the head. EJ motors have less metal in the top of the blocks. There is only a 1/4" of metal between the two cylinders, where on a EA block, its solid with smaller cooling/oil ports. Custom Dual port heads would be a better route

wow... what a project.. I want to see pictures as you go along building it up

something like that happened back home a few summers ago. Some kids stole a 84 wagon from town, drove it 35 miles out the road, flipped it haulin rump roast down the road, the rammed it with a truck off the road into the trees. It sat there a month or two with everyone stopping by it and smashing it to pieces. I drove out to it and towed it back onto the gravel and flipped it over on the side and took the last good tire/rim off it. I got 20,000 miles out of that tire. Sad, but good..

I've ran stock, accel, and my msd blaster coil with .045 gap

.045 and I'm stickin to it.... Wider the gap, longer the spark, the better the combustion

.045 is where they need to be NGK plugs dont come pre gapped. Thats why its down so far.

the nut that holds the mount to the strut musta backed off. You may be able to tighten up the nut,. but most likely, its bend or broke. get a used strut from a JY or from a parts car and you'll be set

should be a 7 1/2 or 8 1/2 inch disc.

Damn dude. that sucks. My condolences to you and the car. At least you and JWM are alright

Loyale RS???? Fill me in on this. I thought my roomate was nuts when he said he seen a EA82 style body that said RS

There is one sitting at my shop. Its an 89 I believe. Its got a rod knockin pretty bad. Nice body on it though.. I guess I could always use that one. Its got a red interior though. Kind of a bad color. The black exterior with tinted windows looks good though. Sounds like a RX might be a good buy. Its gonna be hard to pry one out of people hands up here, but I think its possible. What year is the Black RX with gold lettering on it? I saw one of those the other day.

I fixed the seatbelts in the brat this past weekend. I used PB Blaster on the springs inside the rewind mechanism. Pry the cover halfway off so the spring doesnt pop out. Spray the hell out of it and then work the belt in and out while spraying. This will get all the gunk out of the spring. should work fine after that. if not, replace the whole belt assembly. You will need a 15mm to do this. It is one of the only things on a subaru that you'll need that 15mm wrench that you've never used in your toolbox.

thats an easy fix. start by using a come-a-long to a pickup truck bumper. hook it to the core support where the V is. ratchet on it until the core support bends about a 1/4" past where it needs to be (it will spring back when you let off) Now bend the middle vertical support that goes from the bottom core support to the top (has the hood latch on it) this will take a lil playing with. All you want is the hood to latch. once it latches, take the hood off either replace it with a used one or pound out the dents with two hammers (one on each side of the hood) throw in new lights and a new raid if the old one leaks and you'll be set. You can still auto X.. dents aint gonna hurt ya replacement front fenders are 65 bucks from a body shop. Getting a used hood should be easy.. 50 bucks from a JT

yeah.. it runs, so I think my boss is just going to sell it for cheap. I'd like a turbo EA82, but all the ones I've seen in Fairbanks have blown head gaskets. I guess I should plan on ripping one down and putting good copper hgs in it and changing all the o-orings/gaskets on the intake/turbo/exhaust I'd be looking for a turbo wagon with a 5 speed D/R in it. If anyone has a nice one (No rust, no dents) in the Northwest Area let me know. I could be looking for one in the fall.

ahhhh. yea this one is the same as the one in your sig, except its a 88.