torxxx

if I remember correctly, with a ea82 you'd have to go lift 8 inches to fit a t-case under it

You have e-brake because its a cable brake Rebleed your brakes, and make sure the brake booster is working properly which order did you bleed the brakeS? I believe (correct me if I'm wrong) it goes front pass, back driver front driver, back pass.

I talked to mudrat about it about a month ago. I was thinkin about doin it to my ea82.. I dont see it being any more complicated then doin the EA81. The subframes would be similar. The driveshafts would be the hardest part I think I'd pm Mudrat79. He would most likely have the best advice.

8mm

congrats

damn.. maybe I'll see if my JY has some newer used ones so I can just swap them out. Mine are so worn out that I can almost bottom out my front just by pushing down on it

the way I figured mine out was put my hand on the cam covers and you can feel the tick through the cover but yea if it goes away, its most likely the hydralic lashers

well if you dont have the shield, I dont really know how you could hook it up. Goto a JY and pull off that shield and install it.. I think you could get away with just the top half of it. I got a piece of heavy duty exhaust hose (used on salt water cooled Gas engines in fishing boats) Mine is like 2 1/4 inch.. its too big, but the bottom of the hose melted to the shield sealing it so I dont need a hose clamp on it. On the top it goes on the inlet of the air filter assembly thats on the passenger side facing the back of the car What are you using to fix the exhaust leak?

damn. how long of a project am I lookin at time wise to replace shocks/struts all the way around?

sounds like wheel bearings to me cvs usually click and pop when you turn sharp when they are going out check the cv's by checking for up and down movement.. grab the shaft from under the car and pull straight down and then push up (on the middle of the shaft) They shouldnt have play going up and down, just side to side

alright... sounds good when I buy the new struts, do they come as one piece? or are they strut and then a spring so I'd have to put them togehter?

yeah, and I'm sure the few times you've probably drank alcohol and gotten behidn the wheel, well that prolly wouldnt go over good with your insurance company either.. Just chill out dude. He simply offered a cheap solution to a problem Quit being an rump roast Oh and worry more about other peoples exhausts rusting out instead of bitching about bailing wire

theres a lot of things that "could" happen on the road man. you could be T boned by some female driver in a SUV who was talkin on her cell phone and didnt see you.. I dont see you out trying to stop that from happening. Your gas tank mounts could snap and you could drag your gas tank down the road.. sparks, boom your car blows up Arent you worried about that? better go check those mounts.. Your tie rod could suddenly snap. You ujoints on your driveshaft could snap and jackknife down and flip your car off the road..

If I replace the struts and springs up front on my 86 GL wagon, is it going to throw my alignment off? I need new struts but I dont have the money to buy new struts and then pay 100 bucks to get the alignment done by a shop And as far as the back shocks, is there even an alignment adjustment on the them?

if you know how to use bailing wire right, you dont really have to worry about it. Every car/truck I've owned has had the exhaust bailing wired up somewhere, and I never had it break. I drove for 4 months with the yoke wired into the back of my tranny cuz I coudlnt get a new drive shaft.. That stayed in place even out rallyin and havin my car try to pop its self into 4 wheel drive from wheel hop

I ran 15w-40 all winter last year up here in Alaska.. worked just fine.... 2hawks - There are specs in a FSM or a Haynes/chiltons manual that says how much play the impeller (I think) is supposed to have with in its mechaincal limit. If its got too much play, replace it. I've never changed an oil pump but from what I've been told, its under 2 hour project.

ok.. then they are a safety Item on a newer subaru. the older ones, they dont really seem to have difference on or off. I've had my car up to 100 mph with it off and the body rolls a little more in corners, but thats it. Gained 3/4 inch of suspension travel in the front with it off.. Less wheel chatter over washboard bumps. Its not like you can take a wagon into a corner at 65 on the roads up here anyways.

subiemech you are the man. I was tryin for carfax because SOA said that they didnt have a history of my car being sold in the United States. The lady on the phone said that I had either bought the car in Canada or in Hawaii??? Makes me wonder It was bought at Subaru of Renton in Seattle, Washington

as soon as I get all the emissions stuff ripped off my ea82 carb.. I will do a mpg test and post the findings

I changed the name of the album heres the new addy http://usmb.net/gallery/January-20%2C-2003

Right on.. Glad to hear they are willing to pay for a new part.

I'm not mudrat, but this may help check your fuseable links. They are in that black box right in front of the coil You may have burned one of those out and that would amke you not get spark

well if thoes alt. belts arent tight enough and its night time (you got your headlights on) your charging system aint gettin enough juice.. The combo off all the electronics running and low voltage may have something to do with the fuel problem. Maybe the pump isnt getting enough fuel And for the carb icing up.. I had it happen this weekend at -50F 1/8th inch of ice in covering the side of the carb. I guess thats what happens when your in 2 feet of powder doin 45 mph jumpin berms Check the vac. actuator off the hot pipe that runs from the exhaust to the air intake.. if that doesnt open, you could have iced up Did you check the linkage on the hot cold arm for the heater? you should be able to hear a difference in air flow from moving it from hot to cold.. if not, something in the linkage could be messed up..

when you put it all back together, dont put lock tite on the outside end of those studs. The only place you need want lock tite is on the part of the stud that screws into the block. if you are really worried about the nut backing itself off, double nut it. make sure you use a tap to clean up the threads in the block before you put them back in.. and for the lock tite on the block, use the red stuff that needs special tools to break lose.. you dont want that stud coming out again because every time you do the steel stud into aluminum, the threads get fuct Oh yea and I guess I said it wrong about the jb weld burning off.. it wont burn up completely. It just gets that burning flesh smell and it gets really brittle.. go hit the jb weld wth a hammer.. I bet it shatters

take the air ride suspension off and go with reg. shocks and struts.. The pneumatic system is really problematic from what I've learned.