MilesFox

My 94 legacy does this with 100,000 miles on it. I have read the 'delayed forward engagement' thread regarding this and an internal seal. If you plan to change the fluid, do the drain and fill procedure 3 times, or have a shop do a flush. I am opting to have a flush doen because i do not want to be under my car 3 times with all that mess.

A granite slab would work the same, and might be easier to find for the price. Look for a cut-out from a sink for a countertop. Sometimes you can get a fairly sized slab that is just shaped wrong to use for anything, but big enough for the job.

What color is the driver fender? I am looking for the dark blue (1994) but i think that color was not available for 90-91. But as long as it is not rusty it is candidate for me. I would also need the plastic surround piece for the inside door handle.(dark grey)

the temp sensor may just have some corrosion on the terminals, but it's a good idea to replace it as the parts are not hard to find or expensive at all. The engine temp sensor has a reddish borwn connector and is located at the back of the intake just under the throttle body. The idle air control valve is located near the throttle body. You can try filling the hose up with sea foam and let it soak overnite to free it up. Or you can remove it and disassemble and clean with carb cleaner. It wouldnt throw a code unless it was broken or had an electrical failure. If it is sticky, the computer could think its closed, but it's hanging open. think of the idle air control valve as the choke on a fuel injection.

Is this directly related to doing hte timing belts, or did the car run the same, but all of a sudden lost mpg's?

dude did sell the car being short on cash. People would have told him to EJ it anyway. i'll leave it at that.

Tom, you look like a fool with that response. it's only gossip to you, because we all know eachother. Can't i give a shout out to the guy who is now driving it? I am glad to see it has been rescued.

that is a bit far for me to just come after it, but its worth saving a few bits that you could sell on the forums, at least pull off stuff like solenoids and intake hoses, maf. the heads may be worth something. But i understand if you don't want to take the time to tear it down. I tried to convince the original owner we could do the HG on it in my garage. but instead he bought a whole donor car, pulled parts, and sold it right away being short on cash.. someone in the end gets the best deal-the one who puts it together!

yes, same goes for the other side as well

HA! i know the guy that car came from 2 owners ago. In fact, i sold him one of my cars. This car you have made a pit stop at my garage fro a split hose. I am glad someone got a hold of this car and put it together. The original ea82t only need ed a head gasket, and was fixable. Our local crowd was disappointed when the owner here sold it to the dude in michigan, as we were all after it!

The pulley will be arranged like this. The tooth above the dot will be inline with the valve cover when looking from the top. Notice the position of the bolts, and the location of the roll pin. when the cam is 180 deg rotated, the dot will still line up with the valve cover gasket.

the woodruff key is the little slot on the crank snout that locates the timing sprockets and crank pullet to the crank snout. Without it, the sprockets would turn independednt of the crankshaft. I am not sure what other tems to call it, a slot, a keyway, but the type of keyway it is would be called a woodruff key (half circle key into slot)

I had the luxury of welding up a stock y pipe to make it useable. I was hungover doing this. Ask this guy^^^^^ about it. you could do a dual exhaust with a x crossover between the engine and trans, as the subframe should have room for it. You may want skinny pipes to not lose torue. All of the exhaust scavenging functions are in the y pipe itself, so you will want to try and replicate that as best as possible to not lose any performance with the exhaust. a single straight pipe with the muffler at the end of the y and pipe to the rear should work well. I would recommend 1-3/4 or 1-7/8 pipe for the header, then 2 inch for the muffler and tailpipe

Sounds like a sticky idle air control valve. On cold mornings, as normal operation, the car can idle that high, until it begins to warm up. There is also a temp sensor on the back of the intake that tells the computer how warm the car is. If it is bad, the car can think it's too cold when it is actually warm, and holding the idle up by manipulating the IAC as if it were cold.

I have though of this, but you will have to supply the ea trans with it to work, since the bellhousing will be too thick to put an ea82 against an ej trans

The dot on the cam towers will line up with the seam on the valve covers where the rubber gasket is. For 0 deg TDC #1, the passenger side cam dot will be pointing at the sharp edge of the valve cover just above the 'SUBARU' When the timing belts are serviced, and the crank pulley is removed, the woodruff keyway will be at 6 o'clock position for the III mark on the flywheel.

Sounds like normal operation, but the subaruis much different than the average car. my 94 legacy will go in and out of torque converter at lower highway speeds, and sometimes i can trick the TC to lock up by feather ing the gas. IF the traffic is too slow i would drop into 3 to stay out of the overdrive. The nice thing about the electronic trans is you have a fair amount of manual override to make the best performance with it. In winter driving, downhill speed control can be managed by manually shifting down to 3 or 2 to stay off the brake when making turns on a downhill.

ej the loyale. sell the ea82 engine to someone that needs a quick replacement. It is worth 100 bucks drop in and run. but if you part off the legacy, then you only have a 200 dollar hulk left over. MAybe you can sell the lego, and then get the ej parts you need from a donor that would only cost a few hundo, and still have all the parts while taking the remaining $1000 to the bank.

in ej engines, there is still a crosspipe, but it is separate than the intake. Your ecu temp sensor should cross with some sort of nissan if you have trouble finding one. Get a new one for safe measure, if you are having the intake apart., as it will be easy to get to.

The inale coolant runner iads in the overall circulation throughout the whole block. Otherwise, circulation would favor one half of the block more than the other. It fdoes not take much to make the intake gasket seal, but how you do it may determine how it lasts. the victor gaskets have the graphite and are oem wuality. I have re-used original gaskets, doubled them up, used silicone on them, used cardboard once. I woudl not worry about the pits on the surfacs. I have used ultra grey for sealant. But the idea of the graphite gasket is to allow for expansion.

ej the loyale.

EDIT: i am referring to head gaskets by felpro. If you know your sources, you can get each gasket from a preferred manufacturer. Felpro does stamp out their own paper gaskets for ea82 in the kit.. Metal with graphite face is best for intake and exhaust gaskets. Try bosal for exhaust.

I get the fel-pro gaskets at NAPA. Please read this thread regarding felpro gaskets, and parts manufacturers, and what comes in the box. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=108259&highlight=felpro You will read mixed opinions versus aftermarket or oem gaskets, but you will hear about otheres where oem gaskets are not available (order item) at the dealer based on geographical location. The ea82 felpro gasket is recommended as well as an oem. Felpro manufactures this gasket(permatorque) whereas the later model ej22 HG is oem manufacture sold in the felpro box. Personally, i liked the metal with graphite surface HG's like the oems should be, and as they came from Victor Reinz when napa used to carry that brand.

Go ahead and do without. I think you asked because you wanted to try it, and want to gain confidence in going around naked:) Worst comes to worst, keep a spare belt, and 2 tools. You can always put them on the next time a cam seal needs changed; we all know how much they always leak! I think you will appreciate being uncovered the next time you have to service the engine.

But the same car will be nearly silent at idle.