MilesFox

i would say the uneven wear is caused by rusty slide pins. take the time to clean them u with steel wook and a penetrating oil, then lube them up with sil-glyde or other similar caliper lube. the rotors could be turned if they have not been before, it would cost you 10 bucks at a chain retailer. it would cost more to turn the drum portion, but it probably wont be necessary. also check that the piston is not corroded, as it can become seized. i like to use the caliper grease on the face of the boot where it meets the piston to protect if from corrosion. if you are lucky sourching parts, you can retrofit to the larger rotor size from a 2000 outback, turbo legacy 1st gen, or anything else that has a 2 piston caliper up front. you will need the caliper brackets to fit the larger rotor. I swapped them on my 94. the only downside is that you wil have to go with 15 inch wheels, as 14's wont clear the 2 piston calipers. i have the complete pull-off set of brakes form my 94 if you have trouble finding parts. My rotors and pads were worn, and i just swapped to the larger brakes because i had them, but my pull-off parts are still useable with new pads and rubber.

As i posted o your question at dirty impreza, if in doubt, mount them diagonally, as long as the pair are the same size, as any difference in rotation will be dispeled through the open front and rear diffs. Just thought i would answer it here to get some input from the other guys.

It is located ont he side of the throttle body, big grey lump looking thing with a rectangle base.

perhaps someone was filling the wrong dipstick. It could be possible the engine is using trans fluid through the vacuum line that goes to the modualtor. Especially if it is a thick grey smoke. If it's oil smoke, it could be consiming through the PCV, being overfull.

use ultra grey

IT would do better than just about anything. even in FWD it has a symmetrical driveline, so no torque walk when you are trying to go. you can only do better with another subaru.

what year? the generic haynes manual will have a wiring schematic that is useful. the year of your car will be specific between 80-82, 83-89, 85-86, 87, and 88-94, depending on model or generation. the output wore on athe alt goes to the battery terminal and the fuse link block under the hood.

that is a neat trick that i was not aware of. awesome.

...and so it goes on the usmb. I have been there and done that. just don't make an issue of it, and it's cool. if you went anywhere else (other forums) asking the same questions, it will most likely be the same folks from here. Some folks are very opinionated, and really hate ea82's:brow:. Some wholly belove the ea82 and its 3 main bearings. In the end it is all banter, among those with common interests (subarus) Unlike a newbie that can come and search and get all the answers, those that have been here had to figure it our all by themselves, collectively over the years, so that now the answers are there for the new guys finding these jewels of subarus that the oldscoolers have had inside out and backwards long before anyone knew about subarus.

You will plug in the green test connectors to hold the timing static for adjustment. assuming spfi, it is 20 deg btdc. The passenger side cam dot will be pointing to the top hard edge of the valve cover, and the driver side at the bottom hard edge of the valve cover. the rotor should be pointing somewhere between the firewall and the brake master cylinder. you could be a tooth off. try rotating the dsty while cranking, or while running to see what it does. rotating the disty to the right advances it, the left retards it. if you are going by the video instructions, this assumes you rotated the engine as if you were setting up to do a timing belt, and then turning the crank to the 0 mark, and dropping the disty. sometimes there will feel like there is an 'in between' toot h on the gear, and if you feel for it, you can get the rotor in between the 2 positions you are probably messing with. you can leave the screws out and play with the alignment of the dist as long as you know your timing belts are correctly aligned, and then install the disty bolts once you get it tuned.

did you do the valve seals when you did the head gaskets. you would get oil burning on decel of they were bad. check the PCV valve and all of its related hosing, as they can be clogged, and th engine will consume oil in the pcv system if it is out of whack. Likely the turbo could be using it as well.

I'll guess that your car has about 135,000-145,000 miles and the factory belts finally went. search 'ea82 timing belt procedure' and 'subaru maintenance' for repair info.

the-timing-belt-broke. old car, ot driven much, aged, and then the original factory belt let go. this is what i presume. any ea82 in the junkyrd with a broken timing belt is a guaranteed runner.

Take it for a spirited drive.

this reminds me of servicing an ea82 that had a nasty bottom end nise, and bad head gaskets. I pulled the pil pump, and the ball was missing, so was the inner seal. so was one of the mounting bolts. and this car ran, and not too bad, considering the heads were on backwards. a monkey could build an ea82 and it would run enough to drive. just source a used oil pump. any one will be good if it is complete, and hasnt been run out of oil.

I would try the engine temp sensor. I suppose you can measure it with an ohm meter and a pot of got water. this sensor is coing to contro input to the IAC. and with your car acting up with the colder weather, perhaps the car thinks it's warmer out. Just an idea, considering the age and miles of the car, and the sensor being the original. I know you have changed your maf, but the symptoms could have been related to this the whole time. my car has started to do similar things. lately, it has been holding the idle up that i have to sntnd on the brake at a stop. Then it starts fluctuating, and if i put in neutral, feather the trottle, i can get it to settle down. It hasnt wanted to stall, but from a warm start soon after, sometimes it wont catch on the first crank, then fire, almost stall, shoot up in rpm, and settle on a good idle. at 101,000 mi on mine i am anticipating changing the temp sensor along with cleaning the IAC and a coolant flush as PM.

this is what to me is a sign of bd wheel bearings. It could very well be the rear wheel bearing. also, make sure the axle nuts and washers are installed properly, and they will lose torque if the flat washer is oriented backwards.

n othat wil not work being a mechanical disty with external knock control. but one frm an spfi will fit. the 86 and 87 spfi has a round plug, 88 and up have a square plig like the mpfi. you can swap the pictail from one to the other to match. the difference between an spfi and an mpfi disty is the spfi has a round shaft, and the mpfi has a d shaped shaft, and the mpfi has a taller cap and rotor. and spfi rotor and cap will fit on an mpfi disty, but not the other way around

I like your project, it is similar to mine. I, also, would like to swap to the DL 4 headlight system. so i presume your driveline cme from an xt6(alcyone vortex)? I see that it has 5x100 wheels, and the car would have originally had 4x140 i have swapped mine to full time 4wd 5spd from a FWD, and impreza 2.2 from the original 1.8. I added an 87 style front bumper and an RX (leone rxII) ground kit and wing. here is my build thread if you want to check it out, and your car is almost the same build as mine. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=119353&highlight=3door

make sure you have connected the vacuum canister vacuum line, it comes off the passenger strut, and has a fitting to a slightly larger hose going to the passenger side of the intake. It is an easy one to miss.

the first picture ooks as if the hose is leaking. it is probably cracked and brittle at that fitting. this is oil from the pcv condensing in the hse and leaking out the bottom of it. i see a spot of coolant in the 3rd pic. I would suspect the water pump weep hle or the o-ring. I would recomment replacing the water pump, and replace the cam seals. Ditch all the covers, and watch the 'art of subaru maintenance' videos.

maybe the middle of the core is clogged, and all the hot liquid is bypassing on the outsides, but not at enough volume to stay warm if the middle is plugged. just an idea. the heater hose runs straight from the waterpump as well.

you already posted here 3 times. this is mainly a old subaru forum and anyone here with an '11 either just finally got one, or it is their first subaru, and the older soobs never had the nav:burnout: NASIOC can be frustrating as we all know:) But more and more new subaru people with newer subarus are finding their way to this forum, and that knowledge base is growing.

do you get any steering wheel shakes. If they get real bad it will pull on the steering wheel. The inner doj takes a little longer to act up. I would expect somesort of vibration or shimmy from a doj going out. Is the handling off, like steering more quickly one way than the other? wheel bearings are tricky to feel out until they are shot. by what method did you install the wheel bearing? Is the oot ripped on the axle?

so what did you do, put it in 4wd and drive it home? i once got an 88 dl for $150 over a stripped hub. it sat for 2 years, but i got it to start, put it in 4wd, and drive it over to my tow vehicle to transport it. Good score