MilesFox

the horn switch is the middle of the steering wheel! you should hear the relay when you press the wheel. check fuse #5

IF it's not broken already you can preserve it into antiquity. Its an easy car to service compared to other makes

there is a rubber drain tube near the cat and the egr side of the firewall for the air conditioning. maybe the exhaust is coming form there?

try the wheels page to give you an idea of what you are looking for. http://www.indysworld.com/80s/general/wheels/wheels.html

check your other thread, look for the wire on the top of the radiator. Yu should remove the toggles and extra wires, and make your troubleshoots first before any electrical modifications. you can make a toggle to act as the ground for hte thermoswitch. You woud run it in parallel, and manually override it to come on when you want, but you can never leave it off becausse the thermoswitch (should) make the fan come on anyway.

sorry, i was thinking of ea82. But on your (ea81) the fan will come on if you ground that wire to the frame. it should be connected to the thermoswitch on the side of the radiator. The radiator grounds with a small wire on the top to the frame near the hood latch. this wire may be missing if the radiator has been removed at one time.

We had a set of chevy 3500 rims with camaro tires on them on this 88 gl sedan. the 19mm lugnuts started to hog out, so we used 21mm lug nuts to fill out the holed. I had to grind out the inner lip on the center hole to fit over the hub. I drove this car to the far end of ohio and hit a good bit of speed down one hill (100 mph) part way out. I ran them on another car for a while. these wheels were heavy.

try the BOSAL listings at napa. metal gaskets, yippee

you are incorrect as it will last forever! just soe simple maintenance trcks will keep it up. do some searching on Idle air control valve (IAC) and the coolant temp sensor, as your symptoms are classic of that. The iac can be cleaned easily once you locate it.

If you run a 195/60 14 it will be within 1.some percent of the original tire diameter on a 185/70 rim. I ran 195/60 14's on my 88 dl. the wheels fill out better and have a wider stance, but no rubbing or lift required, and only 1. some percent difference on the speedo. also the 4wd ea81's will have height adjustable struts

rusty rear quarters plus windows down equals exhaust in the cabin. windows up and fan on should keep it away. maybe you have a leak on the y pipe flange?

i have use the 'liquid glass' block sealers with successful results. But i only recommend it to buy you time to do a proper repair. i would suggest pulling the engine and doing all the hoses, and seals. The time it takes to pull the engine will save time on the rest of the work. The otor i fairly easy to pull, much easier than it looks.

Please let us know what you got! I read another post you have a 96 legacy outback. That is a good choice! Welcome and many happy miles.

the 1996 is probbaby the best year for the 2nd gen legacy. 1996 legacy outback was a regular legacy with outback badges, but the year before the body lift and the cladding. The 96 legacy outback comes with 15 inch alloys like the turbo legacy sedans. I had one as a 5mt, and my buddy had the same exact car as a 4eat Mine had better than 260,000 mi when i sold it.

I had an ea82 dual row radiator do this to me, but lucky for me it was a MAT car. I just looped a hose between the cooler ports and was good to go.

you can test the fan circuit itself. just jump the 2 terminals together and the fan should come on (run or acc). This way you know it's only the switch.

the 3door coupe is the rarest of all the body style by production, even rarer than the xt. although we had ea82's from 85-94, we only had 3doors from 86-90 (90 loyale RS) they were avaiable from fwd dl to rx full time, or turbo gl. The gl-10 trim was never offered with the 3door.

I got it in black. I know someone else who found it in white. but whatever-it's paintable! rubberized stone guard black painted!

They made it this way so you go to the dealer instead of doing it yourself. It is intentioanl to make something easy to do yourself impossible without dealer specific tools, to sell you on service after they sell you the car.

Well, i'm not gonna lie. I hae boththe rubberized and the stone guard on my car. but first i treated with por 15. I treated the area above the gas tank with the rubberized stuff, and then the rockersils, and inner fenders and wheel wells with the stone guard. I used the rubber stuff where it wouldnt be abraded by debris in tight areas, but the stone guard on areas that would encounter debris and excessive crud. BTW if you notice your rocker sills or front valence has a texture to it, and the bottom of the doors, that is from the factory and the stone guard is essentially the same compound.

92-94 will be the same. the 90-91 models are different from the headlights forward. you could swap 91 parts onto the 93, but you will need to swap the whole front end(hood, fenders, bumper, headlights, grille, marker lites.) the frame behind the body panels is the same for all first gen legacy.

You should consider pullig hte engine, as you will have access to doing all the seals easily with the motor out. Considering the likelyhood of HG failures, you can consider replacing them with the updated design. Otherwise, if you do not have HG issues, run the subaru coolant conditioner with the new coolant.

the disty is an optical style with 360 notches on a disc. this sends a sgnal to the ecu. The ecu then sends a spark signal to the transistor, and the transistor amplifies the signal to the coil to break the field coil and indice a spark. it is possible that some teeth sheared off the timing belt and caused the disty/cam to be out of time. This would eplain the compression numbers. The lower compression is on the disty side?

the o rings will be the cam seal on one side, and the distributor block-off ont he back of the other head, 2 for the crossover pipe. usually the bottom end(conversion set) is sold separately(felpro) and that will have o rings for the dipstick, oil pump, and pickup tube

It may be more economical to find another used good trans. Or if you try to rebuld this one, good used parts (vs the cost of new) if you are proficiant with taking trans apart and back together, you could make custom transmissions with different gears and make your money that way. The front diff would have had to fail from some sort of neglect or lack of maintenance at one point in the car's life. I have never tried to disassemble a trans. I believe you take the tailhousing off first, then split the case. and the trans should be on one side so the parts don't fall out when you take off the other side.