MilesFox

I have put a phase 2 ej25 into a 96 LOB 5mt 22e. no IAC to. But i have enough parts ro do it the other way and put a phase 1 manifold in a phase 2 car. haven't done it tho. in theory it should work.

If your moist is dry you should investigate the shifter linkage as it is adjustable. It may need a re-moisting to keep it moisted up. good luck with your moist

Swapping knuckles will save you the labor and special tools. But you will be disassembling all the trailing links and lateral link and will have to swap the parking cable with it.

I would be using bolts with yellow plating if i were chosing them. Like the plating on the factory bolts if it didnt rust off already

Id does bolt up perfectly but you will have to swap all the associated rear suspension, driveshaft, differential. You will have to fashion a mount for the carrier bearing. You will have to drill and use thru bolts for the rear diff hanger, although the holes are stamped in the body for yoou to drill out.

you might try cross-reference with weird isuzu from the era.

The turbo DIT FB engines are indeed chain drive (15 wrx, forester xt) but the STI still uses an EJ belt driven

vague wheel bearing play

I have milwaukee 18 v cordless hex drive and 1/2" drive impacts. the hex drive will sing 1,000 3 inch deck screws on the same charge. I use it in the shop essentially as an air ratchet for everything from alternator to battery to intake and exhaust manifolds. Or at least to run bolts in and out after breaking them loose or torquing them up by hand. The battery will last almost a month with mixed use. I use it more than a hand ratchet and i only use the air ratchet where this tool wont fit. the 1/2" driver is the prior model. the battery can last thru about 6 consecutive tire rotations. I was able to take the wheels off on a 1 ton ford van with it. It works to break loose and torque up axle nuts. When compared to the air tool, it takes a little more hammering to torque up with torque sticks but it torques up just fine when checked with a torque wrench. At home its a must have now that i have been working in a professional shop environment

belt timing is not set to tdc. but rather with all 4 pistons in the center of their stroke to avoid collision of the valves as you rotate the cam.

I run 0w40 mobil in my ej22's because synthetic and 0w40 in place of 10w40 for both high load and easy cold flow in winter. for the 2011 forester the specs call for 0w20 and 7500 mi intervals. for 2015 they shortened it to 6000 mi around consumption issues. Personally i would not recommend and lucas additives to such light oil in new engine. perhaps consider a 0w30. in my opinion, extended drain intervals are ok with high quality oil, just dont forget to check and top off between, With new subarus, and for warranty, it is acceptable to use up tp 1 qt in 1200 mi with the 0w20 engines. also, in my opinion, letting the oil get below the add mark wrecks the oil more than extended drain intervals.

I had an 83 fwd with carter weber.

I have encountered this problem on a 96 legacy sedan where I ran a jumper between the headlamp fuse and the tail fuse thrust a switch. Advise your technician to troubleshoot a the headlight switch/ park lamp switch and it's grounding at the steering column . He should be able to call up a schematic on the subaru tech info system on the computer networks. Good luck

I have encountered this problem on a 96 legacy sedan where I ran a jumper between the headlamp fuse and the tail fuse thrust a switch. Advise your technician to troubleshoot a the headlight switch/ park lamp switch and it's grounding at the steering column . He should be able to call up a schematic on the subaru tech info system on the computer networks. Good luck

I got my email and ordered swag. The dog stuff will be easy to give away in my neighborhood.

I have an 87 gl ea82 5mt starter in a 96 impreza ej22 4eat if that answers ya.

I have used generic tow bars attached to the tow loops. Good luck

I am due for (rear) struts in my 98 legacy outback. I have 98 forester struts for parts. When comparing, i noticed that the forester strut has a lower perch, but a taller spring. the outback strut is longer below the perch and larger in diameter. I am about to order new struts, and i would get 98 legacy outback struts and use th´ 98 forester springs. Is this the best combo for extra height. Or should i be looking at 2nd gen forester and or 3rd gen outback parts? also, what is the best combo for front struts. Using factory spec parts before adding and strut or body spacers.

be sure to replace the pcv valve as excessive crankcase pressure can force leaks from the baffle plate and oil pan.

It may be normal operation for late model subaru

Do an oil flush and run synthetic to clean it out. Replace the pcv valve

You can swap on xt6 hubs and disc brake.

that is a great deal.

All of this advice is relative to the thermostat location and an air pocket in the engine, and the pocket settles on the thermostat, and that there is no coolant flow. It is possible to overheat during a fill procedure with a full radiator and air lock. And with an air lock, coolant will push out if you try to add until that pocket is burped. filling by the block primes the cooling system and gets some behind the thermostat. There is a bypass hose behind the thermostat that will prevent it from opening when there is an air bubble present. These tricks are specific to subarus. Only those with experience can predict the trouble of a simple coolant drain and fill. Often times it takes manipulating the idle forcing the engine under load and heat, and babysitting the thermostat to ensure that it is open to get a complete fill. It is those whom are not familiar with these tricks who post here having trouble with overheats or cold heater after having the coolant system open. Expertise with subaru is specific, and the general platform of a subaru is atypical when compared to the w˙ole of other makes. Often times conventional automotive wisdom does not apply the same with subaru.

I have full syn cam 2 multi vehicle atf in mine. But i had a professional machine to do the service and paid 100 bucks for efficiency of the procedure. Perhaps a fast lube shop would be best considering you would pay as much as half of the service for the fluids alone. I also am using mobil1 75w90 front and rear diff. I chose synthetic for 2 reasons: I work at a fast lube and the brands are available to me Having done the fluid changes, i could virtually forget about it for another 120,000 mi. I can always check or monitor my fluids at any time.