MilesFox

in my example, the driver side cams were in phase, and the passenger side was 1/4 turn out of phase for the intake, and half a turn on the exhaust. I would imagine if it was any more there would have been collision. From what i understand with a DOHC is the valves can collide eachother.

Perhaps the idler cog is falling apart causing the belt to skip. You might be lucky as i was when i picket up a 98 legacy outback by just re-aligning the belt and replacing the idlers.. Check the belt rotations and refrain from cranking the engine until you check it out.

As long as the crank mark is lined up there is no chance for valve-to-piston contact.

For a front differential, assuming an automatic, 80w90 conventional or 75w90 blend or full syn., beying 90 grade oil. The GL-5 spec is for a pinion gear such as the font and rear diff. A GL-4 synchromesh is not appropriate for a subaru with manual trans considering the diff and a GL-5 rating. This is where the 'extra-s' fluid is relevant to a manual transmission of any type. A 75w90 may give you better fuel economy and rolling resistance in cold weather. Front capacity is 1.3 and rear is .08. Two qt bottles will service both the front and rear for within 20 bucks. A gallon size container is not necessary. For this 20 bucks i am using mobil1 75w90. walmart is cheapest

This is an interesting topic outside of your normal 'tools and spare parts' topics. Aside from driving around with the tools i use to work on my car, I carry an EDC (everyday carry) bag with me in the case i would have to abandon my car in the cold or far away. For the car itself i keep a shop rag folded up in a square on the strut tower to check the oil. A spare bottle of oil fins nice behind the battery, and a spare jug of coolant can be made to fit on the passenger side of the engine. In the trunk i keep a tire plug kit and jumper cables, and tire iron or breaker bar. Inside the car i contain with what fits in my bag or on my person. I have a general rule of not leaving valuables in thhe car as i live in an urban environment. In the bag i keep a pair of cotton jerzey gloves, some mechanic type gloves, wool hat and scarf, shemagh scarf, bandana. Any of these items i may be wearing in rotation. Also in the bag are AA aND AAA batteries, pocket radio, and an airforce issue ontario knife. I also keep a notebook and random paracords and zip ties, lunch and whatnot i have with me. The bag is a marine ILBE assault pack with sustainment pouch on the external PALS webbing. On my person i have a folding razor blade knife, .380 spare mag, maglite LED 2AA, leatherman surge pocket tool. The farm store has a lot of european military surplus cold weather gear that i have been collecting up and makes for my hats and gloves and wool clothing I have made some EDC videos with my belt and pocket carry if i can get my video software working again

Nissan case were used as the spline fits in the trans on a subaru. This should be different for a jeep. Perhaps salvage a nissan yoke to fab a coupler. good luck

Ask your local oil shop to open it as the pit allows room for a 3 foot breaker bar. That and they shouldhave a replacement plug. Make sure you do not install it too tight. It may be worth the $30 dollar diff service at your local oil shop.

I would guess the alternatior is old and the voltage regulator may be overcharging. It can voltage spike and for the same amount of impedance in the circuit with increased voltage causes increased amp draw which can overrun a fuse or burn stuff out. Charge output should be within 14.5 and 13.5 and the battery at rest should be at 12.4-12.6v (with surface charge)

If you suspect a head hasket, it would be easy and worth considering to follow the re-torque procedure, although it is never practiced. I guess there is no compromise to do so if a HG service is inevitable. The 1996 ej22e has a composite head gasket and is not prone to the same pattern failures of milti layer steel in the 2.5 and 1999+ 2.2

Yeah you would have to make a frame off projecto for sure, and the labor to dismantle the donor car. You would have to commit to it to do so, and preferrable have other cars to get around in and the space and time to do so. In this case starting with an impreza as a project would be easier.

I can relate to the rust. IF the cars are cheap and easy to come by, swap into a cleaner body. But i can also relate to these models being rare, where you will want to make the investment into it to keep it. Likely any other cars in your area would be in equal condition. The rear subframe can be repaired with sleeve and tube as i have seen it done. There is some seam sealer and body glue from the factory in the rear quarter wells. You will want to remove the interior panels from the trunk to do metal repairs. The inner wheel wells will rust through behind the strut tower mount on the exterior of the car. Dirt settles in between harboring moisture. The rust on the rear quarters would be from water infiltration at the tailgate where it collects there. Especially with sedans and the quarter window. Same can be said for the tube frame as sand and salt will settle inside of it over time. I have done as much with a subaru legacy 1995, but i did have a whole donor car to chip out by the spot welds and patch in while wheel arches and rocker sills. I did end up swapping a whole subframe and gas tank in that example as well. Good luck to you.

Taking the door panel off without breakiung the clips is more of a chore than replacing the glass itself.... The window switch is tricky to remove, sort of like tetris, and there is a secret screw behind it to remove the door panel. Once you have the door panel out and the plastic barrier out. you can position the window so that you can get to the 2 bolts and pull it up. You might have to remove the mirror post, or loosen the slotted bolts to maneuver out the glass. It's more of a puzzle piece than any degree of physical difficulty.

Perhaps look into turbo ej22t 1990-1994 engines for parts and cross reference.

Yes, burping the system takes time and pationce, where you will have to hold the idle up and force the thermostat to open, perhaps drive the car under load to heat it up. It is possible to overheat during the burp procedure if you are not familiar with how particular a subaru is. Here is a tip: fill the block by the upper radiator hose first, as much as she will take, before filling the radiator. ' I have resorted to adding coolant to the heater hosed on tricky to burp engines. IT almost makes more sense to run the engine to temp before opening the cooling system and filling before it has cooled down too much (as like a coolant flush would be performed in a professional procedure)

The only difference between the carb heads and the SPFI heads is the egr port. Otherwise a carb manifold bolts directly on. You will have to lose the ACVS as there is no port on the side of the exhaust port. You can swap the heads for the sake of doing head gaskets, but it is not immediately necessary to do so. Just carry everything from the carb engine over to the SPFI long block, including the distributor

the black wire is positive and the yellow wire is negative, if that helps

It can be done but you would have to be proficient to build a whole car and understand all involved and have the ability to invent and procure the right combination of parts to allow later model parts retrofits. Ultimately you would have to salvage and trim the ecu and harness for the engine swap. It's worth it if you have a complete donor car and a solid recipient car to be worth the time and expense.

The only thing to accomplish with this method is to add coolant after doing so.

The clutch cable may be too tight. as the clitch wears some slack should be adjusted to it. You will find anything you need for questions here. a 1987 GL is a good one to start with. This way, if you ever end up with newer subarus, you can appreciate the heritage of the subaru platform. Good luck

By the term 'hatch' we can assume an ea81 as they continued production to 89 in the USA. Otherwise the term '3-door' refers to an EA82 GL coupe. My advice is relative to EA81 hatch. Otherwise, if we are discussing a GL Coupe, the xt6 5 lug parts and a custom driveshaft would accommodate a WRX drivetrain. You will want a front crossmember from a GL turbo wagon, sedan, or RX coupe

pull up the back seat and check the pigtail there. there is an intermediate pigtail from the seat to the fuel pump itself which is loicated behind the passenger seat under the carpet thru an oval shaped hatch

This is a common place to rust through the brake line

It can be done. Consider looking at the australian subaru forums where there was a WRX swap in a BRAT, where the modifications would apply similarly to a GL

I would guess the timing belt slipped a notch and has a loose tensioner. check your timing marks

for carbureted n/a models