MilesFox

slop in linkage. inspect the linkage on top of the trans. the lo range is ganged to the 4wd link. you should get another click on the lever for lo range.

Likely the master cylinder is failed. I have had enough of them fail in first gen legacys so I would not rule that out. It probably was ran dry then it popped. Otherwise it may need a bench bleed

No maf on the carb and the only thing to really gain from it is not having to replace it. Examples of Chevy need not apply to subaru as the mechanicals and carburetor is fundamentally different. Good luck and use 40 wt oil

Interesting as there is no center diff. The transfer clutches have a bias to be engaged and disengage to allow rotational difference between front and rear axle. Installing the fuse holds the duty c solenoid 100% to disengage the rear transfer clutch keeping it in fwd

Interesting as there is no center diff. The transfer clutches have a bias to be engaged and disengage to allow rotational difference between front and rear axle. Installing the fuse holds the duty c solenoid 100% to disengage the rear transfer clutch keeping it in fwd

Outback sport impreza ej22. Suspect the idle air control valve for idle issue. Clean it out with sea foam. The clutch is cable, perhaps some lithium grease on the pedal pivot. Use 40 wt oil and do not apply any old man advice to this car.

The automatic trans is sluggish. The same engine will be more lively with a 5spd.

Inspect the fill tube behind the little plastic guard. Dirt and salt accumulate there and the fill tube is subject to corrosion. I pinhole rust hole can cause this. Perhaps some epoxy to cure it. Ditch the plastic cover if so.

I have a 98 Forester with ej22e swap. I have replaced the front o2 sensor and i still get a i/m nor complete code and then it trips the check engine, and fails emissions. I have yet to investigate the harness for the o2 sensor. Plus i have an aftermarket header.

If you smell any burning rubber this is a sign of a failing water pump. It is driven by the timing belt. Perhaps the water pump is leaking. This can start to rear its head around 150,000 mi if the timing belt and water pump is over due. First thing first, top off the coolant aqnd burp out the air pocket. Perhaps you should fill coolant into the upper radiator to fill the block if it is low enough. Cold heat is a classic sign of low coolant condition. There may be an external head gasket leak. Perhaps the previous owner sold you the car as it was up agains the wall for routine service. Please consider doing th timing belt and water pump to ensure reliability, and to investigate prior service records

Go for the 0w40 oil change. Check oil between oil changes. Please don't go 5000 mi without checking the oil in any car

I have a story to tell about using 0w40 in place of 0w20 in 2013 impreza FA20. I work at a fast lube and has a customer come in for the first time at my shop with low on arrival (dry dipstick) with a presumed 5000-7000 mi interval. I prescribed an oil system flush and 0w40 oil. Well, she came back today after 8000 mi and was only down .5 qt in 8000 mi with 0w40, and having not checked or added to the oil since the first visit. Current mileage was 40,400 upon arrival this time. My recommendation and application of 0w40 comes from 40 grade oil historically being applicable with subaru, and that 20 grade oil was never called for before the FA engine. I wish i had more history with this customer's oil service to officially make any claims about 0w40 reducing oil consumption for this application. Now, is there a moral dilemma to using a customer car to apply my own curiosity for results or going against API starburst 'energy conserving' oil? 40 grade oil does not bear the starburst symbol, although the oil we used does meet API SN requirements for this application. This recommendation did come with expertise with Subaru having owned them for better than 15 years

I would say this is appropriate for extreme duty considering that the viscosity range calls for a 10w30, 10w40 and 20w50 for n/a apllications for temps above -4 deg F. to 104 deg F. Perhaps a 5w50 oil is available with premium synthetic brands and would be appropriate for a cold climate. I would put this together and say that 15w50 is appropriate for summer temps in your climate. Once again, i am using 0w40 in leu of 10w40 for this viscosity range vs climate, and Mobil brand since the price is right for about $27 bucks for a 5 qt jug.

injector resistor on the passenger side firewall. the ceramic thingee in the aluminum housing. perhaps it is failing intermittently when hot. Just a hunch. Also, there is an ignition amplifier module on the firewall. Although different than an ea82, this does happen with the ign amlifier on ea82's so the same logic can apply. Perhaps suspect this first. Good luck

Sounds like bottom end noise. Perhaps rebuild the oil pump and lic-tire the screws behind the rotor and 40 wt oil and see what that does.

carry a large c clamp if you had to re-do your belt as you can squeeze down the tensioner with it.

My starter did this after i replaced the battery and alternator. bad starter for sure. lucky for subaru a manual trans starter from an 80's model fits in my 96 impreza. I would guess it has a shorted armature: too much draw and not enough torque

I would move it up to a 0w30 or perhaps a 0w40. Group IV oil can be made from paraffinic oil such as Mobil 1. You have to get into amsoils and pennzoil platinum to get into a group 5 oil. Good luck.

Also, my 96 impresa with 185,000 mi had a little bit of bottom end noise at cold start with 10w30 that went away or i havent noticed it with 0w40 as well.

This was the immediate first statr with fresh 0w40 fill. I started the video about 45 seconds from running. The tick went away after i drove it 10 miles to my workplace. It still has the same oil in it; if i were to change it now, it's because the oil is cleaning out the engine. The motor sat as it was overdue by 3000 mi with whatever oil it had in it prior as it was when i acquired the engine (it was my DD for a few mo before the HG blew, and the engine had the same oil in it from when i got it as i was driving it in is donor car. the differnce with cold start is that the 0w should be good to -20 and the 40 good for temps above 95. If you understand the viscosity index, the 0 is the cold viscosity and the 40 is the hot viscosity. The 10w40 is good from 04 dg as a 10w40 acts as a 10 grade when cold. I have had no trouble and i live in a temperate northern usa climate and right now the temp is in the single digits. So far this season the coldest start has been 15 deg F until i start it up tomorrow morning in single digit. Here is the same engine in its donor car at a 0 deg startup with whatever presumed 5w30 was in it to start (same block, but different heads as this engine is in the forester)

I encourage you to use 0w40 if the lifter tick persists. the 0w will flow more readily thru the tiny passage in the lifters to help prime them

check the coolant again after the car has sat overnnite. if it needs topped off, you may have best luck filling from the vent hole on the passenger side of the radiator.

The ej22 has the most reliable head gaskets along with the ea81. anything you read about HG failures in regards to 2.5 and MLS does not apply to either of these engines. Arguably the best subaru motor EVER (the ea81 scores a point more since it lacks a timing belt. Both engines find their way into aircraft applications

I am going to comment on the oil. My comment comes from both that i work at an oil shop, use mobil brand, and have an ej22e swapped forester What your chrysler tech says has some merit. But that school of thought comes from old school chrysler engines. For a conventional oil, you should use a 10w40 as it is good to -4 degrees F same as a 10w30. "5w30 is not recommended for sustained high speed operation" says the subaru owners book. In refernce to chrysler, the late model 6.1 and 6.4 engines DO call for a full synthetic 0w40 oil meeting chrysler material standard 11106 (ask your chrysler guy's opinion on that one) I am using Mobil1 0w40 in my ej22e. I use it in all my subarus including ej25d. The brand is labelled "European formula" and meets the chrysler spec as well as BMW, mercedes, volkswagen, porsche and is formulated 'for flat tappet cams'. The 0w40 mobil has a ZDDP content of 1000, same as the super high mileage 10w30 synthetic blend, and the high mileage mobil 1 full syn for 10w30. For the subaru a 40 wt oil is preferred such as a 10w40, or with a full syn 5w40 or 0w40. The diesel oils such as delvac1300 super and mobil 1 turbo diesel truck 5w40 have 1200 ZDDP. A conventional 10w30, 5w30, 5w20 and full sy of these viscositoes are between 600 and 800 for today's sensitive cats. My engine had not run for 6 mo when i put it together with heads from another engine. I had a hard lifter tick that went away after 10 mi of driving. The mobil1 0w40 is a good fit for the subaru and a mobil 1 104 filter to pair for 10000 mi or 12 mo service. I can assure you my lifter tick has not returned, and it actually slowed up my oil consumption to 1 qt in 5000 mi (new pcv valve, no leaks) You will not want to use a 5w30 oil in synthetic in accordance to your teacher. But even a current spec conventional oil has low zinc as the current standard for oil as API SN. The diesel oils that can be used for gasoline meet the API SM standard. The ej25d or ej22e will call for anythig form "5w30 all temps" for API starburst seal 'energy conserving' for USA economy requirements for the time of manufacture, but is not recommended, strait 30, 10w30, 10w40, 20w50 from -4 deg fto 104 deg F, straight 40, strait 50 for temps above 95 degrees, and 20w40, 20w50. A 0w40 gives you better cold flow at start up which makes it appropriate for -0 weather as a 0w40 will flow more readily when cold than a 5w30, but is stiffer at temp than a 5w30. Common convention says that oil thins out withy temp, but this is not true with today's multi-viscosity oils. And that broader viscosity index with a 0w oil is possible with the refinement process of synthetic oils where a 0w is not possible with a straight conventional oil. And chrysler expertise cannot be applied to subaru the same, in general. Oh yeah, i forgot to mention that my engine has 250,000 mi and 150,000 mi heads. The synthetic 0w40 is doing a good job of washing the carbon out of the rings and reducing consumption. I may change it soon after 5-6000 mi but this is why i have the good filter on there, and know that i could stretch it up to 10000 mi or 12 mo A lot of advice about syn oil is 'i heard this, someone told me that' but my advice comes from my own expertise and experience and my own application fo such, with being in the oil service industry and having more than 50 subarus over the last 15 years. To each his own, but 40 wt is the golden rule of any flavor

be sur to fill the block by the upper hose first. burping the air out is tricky with subarus. Generally speaking, old-time automotive wisdom or expertise is a whole different bag than what pertains to Subaru. Good luck