MilesFox

i'm talking about rust belt as far as being able to disassemble the rear end without breaking bolts, cutting parts, ripping out captive nuts, etc. If you are ambitious enough, git'r'dun however it takes. be mindful that slapping on a turbo, you won't be able to go boost crazy without blowing things up. if you want a turbo, you should source a tuyrbo engine and swap that in, or build the bottom end of your existing engine(s) with the right compression ratios.

Is that corrosion on the door seams and be pillar, or is that some sort of body undercoat wax?

no, the car did not fall off, but the trailer wraped most of the way around the 88 lincoln town car i was driving. IT twisted the reciever a little bit too. I was working at u-haul at the time. I rented the trailer to myself. I turned around and went back the 5 miles i started from to re-load the car. I managed to reverse the contract and re-write it with safe tow insurance, so with that, i was in the clear without liability. No one really questioned it, even when i explained my experience to the marketiong company president himself. This was at a time where u-haul was reviewing its trailer safety procedures, and went along with similar occurrences, before they started to enforce to the customers the 60/40 rule. I was lucky to not be tangled in other traffic. My car managed to stay in the onramp lane, although facing 180 degrees. a passerby stopped to check if i was ok, and held the lane down while i turned around and got off on the next exit. this isnt the only towing accident i have had. once, my 5x8 uhal cam unhitched and passed me in traffic, because the guy helping me with that job did not fasten the ball clamp when he hitched the trailer. it passed me, went thru a red lite, and rested in the median. once again i was lucky. I am a lot more cautious and careful due to my experiences. No longer would i be complacent with towing combinations, as i have realized the real dangers as real experiences.

fuel pump?

maybe you should trade your car for one that already has a 2.2 or a turbo. especially if it is a FWD. unless you have a whole car for parts, or you like to take your car apart instead of driving it. everything bolts in. you will have to mix and match the intake manifold between them. if you go AWD, you have to swap the rear suspension. Give it up if you live in the rust belt.

in my case it was a short trip, but trouble was had as soon as we got to 45 mph on the main road out of town. This was a big body GM by the way with the steering locked. I can imagine there are enough forces applied to potentially break the steering lock this way. I once towed a subaru ina 6x12 open u-haul trailer. I loaded the car backwards. Let me just say that i spun out at the end of the onramp. I had to re-laod the car and continue another 50 miles with a bent tongue. remember kids, 60% of the load over the tongue, with the bulk of the weight centered over the axle(s).

This was a car that i got for free. It ran the babe rally, then was given to me, and then i ran it in the babe rally as Team TrashWagon FWD 87 GL wagon. I later sold the car, then it was sold again, the owner was referred to me, and i swapped the driveline int a clean 88 wagon and junked this one's body. This car had over 250,000 miles. The last sets of photos are from deals gap. notice how far over the 9 ft whip antenna is bent to get an idea of how hard i was taking those turns. I was drifting the same turns in a 78 toyota camper the following year's babe rally. This car never had a title as it came from NH where a title was not required. I could have titled it in WI if i had NH registration documents, but i could not get them from the original owner. I swapped the dash vin tag and titled it as an 87 gl-10 turbo wagon from my already junked TrashWagon6. I am the one who ultimately junked this car under that title. I have a video of the junking once i capture the tape. Don't tell me i am bad and did a felony because i have gone to jail several times for things far LESS criminal (driving a car) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lrekju5YGjg&feature=mfu_in_order&list=UL

Yeah, it was sort of a fiasco being headlined my MR. Hansen, showing up with no registration or proof of car insurace, with pro film maker in tow not knowing htere was no plan, that we were just winging it, to mr hansen ultimately crashing into a 68 camaro in springfield, IL. Truth be tiold, this is the only way i ever would have had the chance to do a power tour. IT really was all a big shenannegan for the camera dude. If you look on my channel, you will see the related videos of this trip. taking the car to the power tour: registering the event: JC whitney outlet crashing into 68 camaro indianapolis raceway park dragstrip The rest of indianapolis before i ran out of tapes/interest in shooting This event will be featured in a documetary film "economysuperstar movie" as well as the LONG ANTICIPATED (to me, at least) Catch this Fox, the movie (it's been almost 8 years now) That was an action packed week as we just brought back the subaru from iowa literally the day before the event, and this was all within a few days of myself moving to milwaukee, after being back and fort h from ohio for an off road meet, and everything in between. That car was sold to a guy who lives between PA and LAke Geneve, he is active on this forum, but i dont know wha ever became of the car. You can see it in action search youtube for "snow Subie" posted by this guy after he acquired it.

we do care to see pictures. pleas post them.

pop one axle out and that will do. if you are good, you can pull the inner end off the trans, and pull the shaft out of the outer cv, then pick out the cage and balls. or pull the axle, take off the outer end, reinstall the stub.(but this is the same work as replacing the whole axle. I had a brat where the axle came separated on the outer end(not broken, just separated. I managed to get it out off the side of the road with a screwdriver for a drift punch and put about 1200 miles on it this way before replacing the axle (as winter was coming!) the nice thing is, if you go to rwd, you can always go back. 2 things to consider: 1. never do clutch drops. the pto gear in the trans wont like it. 2. never try to engage or disengage the 4wd while rolling, revving, or you will grind the pto gear. If in douby, shut down the engine and engege/disengage(if you accidentally hit the button) if you want to do smoky burnouts, install donut wheels.

i would speculate the ecu stored codes from stalling out with the bad alternator. i would suspect the bad idle whwhen warm is idle air control valve/engine temp sensor related. may as well change the ecu temp sensor, and clean out the IAC. the speedo head in the cluster is your speed sensor. sometimes a faulty component can cause several codes on parts that are not bad, but are malfunctioning because another part that controls its function has failed. i wouldnt worry about the crank and cam sensors unless your car has a no-fire no-start scenario

it wont run tight is you strip the solenoids, vacuum valves, and wiring controls from it. Otherwise, open her up and change some seals. IF you get too complicated, consider the weber.

you will have to custom chop or hybrid axles to use i an ea81, since the track is narrower than ea82/xt6/impreza

this would be ok to tow with the 4wd off and front wheels up, being part time, you are good to go. just not with AWD at gary, towing a car backwards on a dolly is BAD BAD idea, it ont handle right, and has GREAT potential for sway. i helped a buddy tow a monte carlo on a dolly backwards. it got uncontrollable by 45 mph and we had to turn it around.

does this have a hydraulic clutcH? if so, you have to remove a pivot dowel out the side of the trans to free the throwout bearing from the fork

sensor 2. sensor 1 is the knock sensor

maybe the coolant temp sensor is bugging out. this explains the hard to start until it sits. It could be ignition related with the transistor on the coil overheating, with the same symptom. try unplugging the engine temp sensor (2 wires green plug, on thermostat housing) and see if the car behaves differently. The transistor is more of a consistent symptom as reported, so i would weigh on it more then the coolant sensor, which seems to act up on mainly mpfi turbo.

you could try ebay. a salvage part would be significantly cheaper than a new replacement. a salvage original part may be higher quality than a new aftermarket unit. since you are here, you should post in the parts wanted section, and cruise the parts for sale thread.

well, since you now have this car, you should consider engine seals. likely the cam seals are laking. see if you can find out any info from the last seller to if or when the timing belt was done. An honest, competent mechanic can do the engine seals and timing belt for a fair price, 600 bucks or less including parts. You will want to know the water pump was replaced, as when it fails, it will ruin the timing belt. having all of this done at once is way more cost efficient than doing over several sessions. the transmission issue you have may be the duty c solenoid. This modulates the engagement of the 4wd. when it fails, the car is stuck in 4wd and lurches around. there is a fuse under the hood to disable the 4wd by holding the duty c solenoid. If your crabbing goes away, then you know the duty c is working, but the clutches are worn. if no difference, replacing the solenoid should fix it. these are suggestions based on common occurrences. on the plus side of cost, the car in great working order is worth 1500 to 200 bucks, so another 600 bucks into it would be comparable to purchasing a car with all that work done for about what it's worth

800 dollars is a good buy for someone who would know and expect to do all this work, and do it themselves. you could re-seal everything and replace all the axles for within 600 bucks because labor is free if you do it yourself. there are pros and cons about hi mile cars. Pros, the work it has needed has likely been done to reach that kind of mileage, but you want paperwork to show for it, or know that the same owner had the car for a long time and had it serviced. If you keep the car, i would recommend getting some basic tools and doing some of the work yourself. If you can change the oil in your lawnmower, than you should be capable of doing basic work on this car to prevent it from breaking. If you don't want it to be a money pit, sell it to someone who would do all the work on the car by getting it for a decent price. junking the car is only worht about 2-300. the fact that it 'run and drive' would allow you to sell it for about what you paid for it, but dont expect to recover from repair costs. You can offset the difference by the value of your own use for the time being, and then sell. make sure your mechanic is competent with subarus, because whatever an old-timer knows as general automotive knowledge usually does not apply the same with subarus.

remember that calculating fuel economy for awd vs fwd, is that fwd has a taller final gear. This is a factor more than the rolling resistance of the etra parts. removing the roof rack would help more than ditching the jack and spare tire. weigh and momentum is a factor when accelerating, but overall aerodynamics makes the most difference at highway speeds. ditch the passenger mirror, go with low profile woper blades, and flat hub caps, air up the tires within 10% of max.

you would have to combo a trans mount set between an impreza and the ea82, and shorten the driveshaft to put an ej trans in your car. it may be more economical to go with the bellhousing plate. You already have the flywheel, just need to drill out the holes. how much for the engine trans combo? you will still need a harness. You can still get a donor car for within such price. it can cost a little or a lot depending on how you get your parts. personally i would source a adapter plate and a donor car with a bad at or whatever to get one for near scrap price.

This is the NADA report for 1986 brat with my zipcode. Its hard to find listings before 1992 on most 'book' websites. This may vary with your zipcode. Really what it's worth is whatever someone would pay for it. My opinion says the brat would be worth the most to keep yourself, especially if you can't find a better one, or will never find one again. Keep it nice and mostly stock if you want it to retain collector value.

if you do hire a shop to blast them down, that is prep worthy of investing in a powdercoat finish. otherwise to do it cheap, get a wire wheel both for a dill and an angle grinder, and paint them with a wheel paint or some sort of epoxy appliance paint

to serious collectors who missed these 30 years ago. book value would probably be 600 bucks. a good brat has its value to the right person. The low mileage will help the $$$$ value