MilesFox

for 1985 and 1986. are we talking about replacing just the glass bulbs themselves, or the whole entire headlight and bucket? any of the marker lights for 85-94 will fit the same, but the 85 and 86 are styled a little differently.

every now and then my 94 legacy will idle high enough to drag on the brake at stops, or the idle may fluctuate, and return to normal. Sometimes when i start the car, it stumbles and hesitates, revs up, and then comes back to normal. I probably have a sticky IAC. It would be a good idea to change the engine temp sensor if you have not already, as this may help with the delayed shift points, and the fuel economy with the open exhaust you have.

Check the cooler lines that go between the trans and the radiator. Either the rubber split out on the hose, or one of the steel lines rusted through at an attachment clip. I would suspect this first. What you are looking at is far different than a cadillac(by design and common parts manufacture), especially with the age of the car, and if you live in a rusty environment(road salts). Not to rule out your original suspicions, but you should rule out the lines are leaking.

You can look at 90-94 loyales, too, as they will be the same, assuming you are looking at ea82 gl

I remember when gas was $1.04 per gallon. But speaking of topic, I am now running the shell v-power premium fuel(93 octane) in my 86 gl wagon, because the exhaust smells a little of varnished fuel. This fuel has made quite the difference in the performance of my '80 Suzuki GS1000e, as it smelled varnishey when i got it running. So far i have gone 53 miles, and the needle only started to move since 40 miles.

I could imagine that they would not recognize it as a subaru, or decline to work on it, or say they can't work on it. OR, you might have a senior staff there go on about how he sold them 25 years ago, and everyone admiring somthing thay have never seen, or havent seen for a long time. I have gone to the dealer with a GL and they either did not recognize it as a subaru(they asked me if i wanted to trade it in for a soob!) The other time, the entire technician floor came out to ogle my car while the manager yelled at them to get back to work.

worst comes to worst, grindd it of with a cutting wheel, grind it down flat with a grinding wheel, and drill it out. a 7/16 but will be remarkably close in size that you can probably pick out hte rest of the bolt as the threads will only rmain, and possibly salvage them by chasing through a die or a new bolt. Start with a smaller bit. a 4-1/2" angle grinder is your friend for this job, with sanding flapper wheels, grinding wheels, and wire wheels. Go for the knotted wire wheel. This will remove any undercoating that has rust behind it so you can treat it.

Well, being from evansville indiana, you may as well settle on what you got, because you are not going to find any other ones very often or very close. I was from fort wayne area, and i hoarded whatever i could find, and would go to columbus ohio for parts because that was the only place i could find soobs in the junkyard. Your car being a FWD will be more limiting for swapping, since you would need a 4wd donor for rear suspension parts to convert to 4wd. But if you do find a donor 4wd, go for it. Or find a running drivable 4wd and start with it. These cars are enjoyable, even as lackluster as they can be. I would recommend turning that FWD 3at into a 5spd fwd. The fwd has taller gears , and will get 30 mpg. And a fwd handles surprisingly well in the snow compared to transverse engine fwd cars. I actually have a spare 5spd fwd trans with mount, cable, and flywheel. but you will have to chop in a part for the shifter. I would have to ship it from wisconsin. I got out of indiana for more than one reason, and one of those reasons being there were not enough subarus! Ironically, the 86 3door coupe restoration full time 4wd ej swap project car that built(which after 40 subarus, this is the one i will keep forever), came from my home town of fort wayne, and i towed it to milwaukee from there long after i had moved away. Good luck!

My 86 wagon has redline in it. I get a little grind when shifting, but the clutch is way too yight, and i think the PP is stretched. That molybdenm stuff looks yummy. I would like to put that in my 3-door restoration(xt6 trans)

This is the time of year that everyone crashes, being the first cold rain or snow for the season. I just filled up my ride to see how long it lasts. I used premium fuel and paid 50 bucks for it. But so far i just drove 40 miles in town and the needle barely moved. I chose premium because the hitachi smells like varnished gas, and there is some slight pinging at lowest rpms, and i just got this car and haven't done any of my magical things to it yet. And there was a 10 vehicle crash on the highway, because it rained today. IT also takes a little more effort to push the tires through snow affecting fuel economy.

How about the garden hose with the sprayer. Way less pressure. How about driving around in the rain? I guyess to literally answer your question What parts should not get wet? -Any of it would get wet on its own in the rain, so, none of them. or is steam cleaning a bad idea altoghther? -no or should your question read "How can i and what would it take to goof something up while washing my engine. How far out of my way do i have to go to mess it up? Least comes to least, wash it down with a rag and rinse with the hose while washing the rest of the car. This is what I do. I do not have a pressure washer. To answer your 2nd post, try doing it yourself instead of the detail shop, if you don't trust someone else's competency. OR, do some routine maintenance, and pack some dielectric grease in the spark plug and wire boots, and preemptively treat the disty with wd-40 and maybe seal it up with a bead of silicone, as this will make you more secure in wet weather driving regardless of power washing.

How about the garden hose with the sprayer. Way less pressure. How about driving around in the rain?

I would recommend rebuilding the cam towers to replace the o-ring in there if nothing else cures it. If you can do a timing belt, this is not much more work beyond that. But it is a little frustrating with the rockers falling off when you try to put it together. But it's totally worth it for severe TOD or poor oil pressure to the valve train

this economy that i reported was with 205/70 15's forester wheels. But the odometer would be off by 8%, as the mileage would be under on the odometer than actual speed. maybe it was better. I have a cherry bomb on this car s the original muffler blew out, and the car lost torque. The 'bomb brings torque and mpg's back about 90% compared to the original muffler

This best explains what i meant

Nice! You could probably do some further straightening with a 3 lb hammer and blocks of wood, to strike down the buckles and push things back straight. My 94 legacy was crushed in at the ehadlight and bettery, and the fender folded 5 ways. I was able to straighten it out enough to replace the headlight, attach the headlight, and close the hood. The grille sits a little crooked. But the battery was crushed and the battery tray folded up, and a 3 lb hammer did most of the work

be careful around the disty and spark plug boots. Otherwise easy to cure with wd-40 if it gets wet. This is best done when the engine is warm and running, and can run to dry out before shutting down. Be careful as high pressure spray can work its way bast seals and get water in tight places. But if you have good aim with the sprayer, you can avoid this if you are conscious of it. Get the engine warm and put some foamy engine brite on first to break down the sludge. The foam is most effective if you can scrape off the greasy chunk accumulation. Dish soap and water in a bucket with a rag will allow you to get in tighter areas, and to wash off whatever the sprayer leaves as a film. you don't have to be too afraid of getting any of the 12v electricals wet, as long as you are not spraying directly into relays and connectors.

If the metal is not rusted throuhg, you can treaet it to preserve it. But if ther eare rust holes, you would be wasting product, unless you cut out the edges of the rust and patch in some sort of metal. I would go with por-15. you can basically wire wheel or sand off the rust, and paint this stuff on. This is best worth doing if you are removing parts first, for better access. You can treat the rust with a converter to seal it up. It would be best to make an effort to clean it up very well, treat, and then paint. putting it on by itself would not be as effective. Then use a product like napa stone guard. Not the 'rubberized undercoating', but the $15 dollar can of the good stuff that smells like candy, and is very similar to what is already on the front valence and rocker sills from the factory.

They are probably going on the condition of the boots, as the tie rod ends are not serviceable. The boots are pressed on, and there is no zerk. The mechanic is erring on safety in recommending replacing them, but they would probably go for a lot longer if left be, if the boots are intact. But at the same time, you let a part last too long, and it becomes rusty and corroded and more impossible to service, where more parts will need to be replaced because it broke coming out.

I think i am doing pretty good at about 24-26 on the highway. I had a 95 that got about 18mpg. It had hollow cats. You need good working o2's and a complete exhaust to be the most efficient. even a cracked muffler will hurt the mpg's

I would vote for the white or bronze. white on red, bronze on a darker red/maroon color.

IF the timing was off 180, the car would not run. what i meant about the fuel pum p, is it is operating when the disty is turniong, regardless of its position or timing. The cam pulley dot on the passenger side will be in line with the hard edge of the valve cover when the #1 piston is at TDC, and the rotor will be pointing at the master cylinder, just to the right of the retaining clip/screw for the cap. Where did that diagram come from? I invented this timing trick myself, and now there is a diagram explaining the same thing?

12mm x 1.25 thread

Clean EJ swap using SJR bellhousing adapter

its either that, or drilling out 6 lug wheels (6x140 toyota, nissan), or conveting to a 5 lug setup from an xt6 for 5x100 wheels