MilesFox

LOL @ the comment:-\

bone stock 88 dl, spfi, pushbutton 5spd 195/60 14" Peugeots

or mix your existing tires diagonally. the steering will be weird, but this will help with spreading rotational difference across the differentials with your existing tires.

code 11 and 13 will exist anytime the key is on, but the engine is not running. i could never seem to get rid of the purge control or egr code. I would just plug off a vacuum line. you can bypass the solenoid with a 33 ohm resistor to cure the code. this would not be TOD related

You would want a way to properly recirculate it. someone else could explain it better. it is generally not recommended.

Because it is something being sold to a consumer market, but isn't really part of the overall engineering, other than such.

you should at least have the same size all the way around. what should you do? replace the old tires with ones the same size as the remaining ones.

they are junk when melted, brittle, cracked, brass thread inserts loose, zip ties, etc. Or they are junk when they break, crack, strip out during routine service. of course their DESIGN serves a purbose, but people trade in their new cars for new cars, and nobody who designed this car would have thought that someone would be messing with timing belts 25 years later. melted timing belts are a result of overheats. i have seen them on both ea82t and xt6 er27, both with melted tbelt cpvers, both with bad HG's it's one's opinion whether or not the belt covers are useful or reassuring, makes you feel better or whatnot, but the fact is, they are not worth replacing or fixing when they ultimately become junk. the argument can be made for DOHC subarus differently, but those are not old and brittle. ea82 timing belts break, no harm, replace them. ej22 timing belts break when the water pump or idler pulley fails. i have seen an ej22 with melted covers, seized water pump, failed bearing on the idler. The idler eroded through the front cover. the belt was partly melted and frayed, but not broken. I had a legacy with open belts, running at idle, with e pebble rolling around in the belt. the pebble jumped out when i revved it. my xt6 was parked alongside my garage, running, with a stick between the block and the belt, and the stick was vibrating against the notches on the belt. no harm, just drove away like that. my point is, the covers themselves are as likely if not more likely to fail than the belt. open belts are easier to inspect and service, period. a 2.5 hour timing belt job on an ea82 is 2 hours of covers and 30 minutes of belts.

heat not hot=low coolant level. is the overflow full. This would be from coolant being pushed out. look for bubbles in the overflow when running. If they are present, this is your problem. indicative of a head gasket failure. every other post is a cooling issue with a 97/98 legacy it seems

1. about 2 hr. You will want to remove the axle, if not the whole trailing arm 2. until the wheel is cambered, and eats up the inside of the hub, and ruins the drum/rotor, or causing a lip in the drum that will make it near impossible to remove. the easiest thing to do is swap a trailing arm. othewise you need a pin socket and a shop press to do it properly. on a FWD, the rear bearing is cake, takes about a half hour.

Take the opportunity to replace the cam seals, the crank and oil pump seals. leave the rear seal alone if it is not cracked or leaking. It would not a a bad idea to take off the cam towers and replace the o-ring in the oil passage, as when this fails, you get obnoxios ticking noises that are impossible to cure without replacing this o-ring. Take off the cam pulleys to do the seals, and ditch the inner covers while in there. Otherwise, just break them off and remove the bolts you can reach. I myself have never had a problem with open belts. Mosn never have. There may be a stray report of debris or failure. But the only failure that i know of is from a loose shop rag under the hood getting wrapped up in the belt. either way, if you do lose a belt, you can replace it in 10 minutes off the side of the road, with no belt covers, as you will not have to remove the crank or the ac bracket to get to them.

You may have a bad thermosensor for the main fan that cmes on with a certain temp. the other fan comes on with the AC. The AC may have just heat soaked and caused an acute overheat. Suppose the radiator is becoming inefficient to age and corrosion. Alo, at that mileage, the WP may becoming inefficient if it is the original one from new. As a old water pup will want to seize and then take the timing belt with it. I would say, if you had a HG problem as described above, you would be having this symptom more often in more varying conditions. It would not be a bad idea to replace the radiator if you intend on keeping your car for the next 100,000 miles.

The car may have been overheated at one point, and subsequently had a HG repair. The covers are junk and you can ditch them if you like. There is no harm to having bad/broken/missing covers. some consider it a bonus, an excuse to ditch them, as having them gone makes routine inspection and maintenance that much easier. For what reason are you doing all this work and pulling the engine?

double check to see if the exhaust gaskets are leaking. A blown out gasket will sound like a misfire, and can sometimes be mistaken for a knocking sound. you may as well get new exhaust gaskets and studs and replace them for maintenance sake. You will thank yourself for doing this the next time you need to yank the engine or service the exhaust pipes. new studs are crucial for keeping torque on the exhaust gaskets, and to not rip out the threads in the head. also, there is an exhaust mount at the back of the trans. If it is not connected, the weight of the y-pipe will start to rip out the studs and compromise the gaskets.

It's quite easy if you understand the procedure. It's easy enough that the average joe can accomplish it as their first ever auto repair, given you have at least a 36mm socket, and some sort of long pipe. eventually(soon) axles and bearings will be part of my subaru maintenance videos, as i have shot the tapes, but just need to edit them. Let me know if you are still coming out this way to do more suspension work. It may be easiest for me to come to sheboygan to work on the car there.

rebuilding axles is a PITA, mainly because it is so messy of a job. do some reading/searching around here on replacement axles as far as what brands are best, and what is worst. be armed with a SOA part number to compare to what was originally on the car (3at turbo, 23 splines) any other non turbo axle will work, though.

so you could either have no antenna, or 2! I believe the switch was in 83 and stayed the same throughout 87 and 89( brat, hatch respectively)

(what i replied to dirty impreza) V V V IT reminds me more of the inner side of the axle wobbling. The sound is conducive to driving around with no boot or grease in the inner axle for 10,000 miles. is it jerking the steering wheel at all? also, the stub shafts on the transmission just plug into the diff on an AT, I know this is true on a 4eat, and presume so on a 3at, but is not true with 5mt. I wonder if the axle stub shaft has popped off its circlip that holds it in place. It could have popped out with the romoval of the alxle. you can check this just by separating the bal joint and pulling out the roll pin, enough to slide the axle off the stub, without having to remove the outer end of the axle or the nut. a driveshaft would have a vibration throughout all speeds and rotation, accel, and decel. The brown wagon i am drivng has a bad driveshaft, vibrating because of loose or lost pin bearings in the caps on the u-joints, or an imbalance. The driveshaft will have a little lash as you described. you will find that same amont of lash at all points of the driveline. IT's possible that the axle was just too worn at the time of rebuild I guess the only way to confirm s to mic the inner parts. I dont think you will break anything by continuing to drive. Did this just start, or did it happen right away after rebuilding the axles?

if your car is a 3at or non turbo 5spd, it is a 23 spline inner. 2 5 splines are for 4eat auto trans and turbo 5mt. outer ends are the same. left and right fit the same. all ea82 rear axles fit the same.

way different than subaru.

That hole is not used for anything. both heads are the same casting, and this hole would be for the alternator mount on the other side. if you can see into the hole, it is open with the drain hole on the back of the head, to drain off anything that pools up around the spark plug. are you encountering this noise with the engine running, or when cranking it by hand?

Check the coolant. IF the heat ever runs cold, the coolant is too low. There could be an air bubble. search 'burp' procedure

FWD will be different as far as how the bearing fits onto a spindle for the rear drums also, ea82 drums are larger than ea81's if you are shopping for ea82 drums, look for 94 loyale so you do not get any brat or hatchback mixed in the parts numbers results.

Have you replaced the water pump. I would suggest either the water pump is inefficient due to corrosion, or the radiator is corroded/clogged. your symptoms sound like inefficient cooling system more than say, a bad HG. But the HG can be compromised if it is overheated too much.

Check for bubbles in the radiator when the cap is off and the engine is running. You may have a blown HG where exhaust is getting in the coolalnt, and pushing it our the overflow. If you are confident in taking the heads off to have a look, you can fix it yourself for within $150 in parts. You could get by with a can of sodium silicate block sealer if yu follow the instructions on the bottle.