MilesFox

check to see that the water pump is leaking or not. Either by the weep hole(worn pump), or by the o-ring on the metal tube to the lower hose where it fits into the oil pump. perhaps the oil is being consumed through the PCV valve and hoses. Bad intake gaskets can burn off coolant, but that would show in the pressure test. You may still have an air pocket in the system after installing the thermostat. Make sure you are using the recommended thermostat.

I feel that the first gen legacy is built better than the 2nd gen, fit and finish and quality of materials. I saw a 93 legacy at the junkyard. Why was it there? i dont know, other than it had 353,000 miles on it before being put there. Your car with the maintenance caught up would retail for close to 2000 dollars if you had the maintenance records to show for it. I paid 600 for my 94 legacy with frontal collision damage, but under 100,000 miles. The book value on my car is 2200 for excellent condition. I was prepared to offer 1200 for it, but it got crashed into before i could close the deal. Got it for half price!

use the ea82 intake as it is a direct fit, and most of the solenoids can be wired in so long as the ea81 has the carb computer on board. or just do a weber. a 5spd swap would appreciate the power curve of the ea82 better than the 4spd. Modification is minimal, and you use the ea82 driveshaft by making a carrier bearing mount.

This was near Zanesville, OH. The same place where 50 zoo animals roamed free in recent news.

Do you have the headlights in yellow tint> i have seen pictures of yellow lights in pics from denmark, but i dont know if that was a factory option. I would be all over a set of yellow lights like like a banana in a raincoat on a slip'n'slide in a field of daffodils next to loyale2.7turbo's yellow wagon.

i like to remove the pitch bar, and re-use the bolt to secure my chain. secure the other end of the chain to the alternator bracket.

The haynes book does not cover front axles or wheel bearings. eventually i will have a video with axles and wheel bearings since i have shot the tapes, but still need to edit and produce them. you will want to pop the ball joint to change the axles. If you are good, you can do this without removing the brakes. But you will have more wiggle room if you do remove the caliper bracket and the rotor/hub. make sure to install the axle nt and washers correctly. the flat washer is slightly bowl shaped, with the convex side out towards the nut to maintain torque. make sure to line up the axle cup with the roll pun first, before buttoning up the rest. you can slide your pin punch through first to make sure it is lined up, as it only fits one way. otherwise, you would only have half a hole if 180 off by how the splines match the cup. use a 3 lb hammer, a block of wood, and a long pipe. separate the ball joint. slide the pipe over the control arm to push it down to get the stud out of the hole. same for installation. once you pop the ball joint, remove the roll pin on the axle cup. use a 3/16" or 6mm drift punch. Do not use a 1/4" will drive the pin out, but will be permanently stuck! use the block of wood to drive the axle out of the hub. to install the new axle put the outer end through as much as you can, install the bup to the trans stub and install the pin, and then use the block of wood to drive the bub onto the axle enough to thread on the nut. thread the nut down enough to pull the axle through the hub. you will first use the nut only, until there is enough thread to put in the wahsers. the axle will be seated in the hub once you torque the nut down to 145 lb-ft. this is equivalent to a 145lb person standing on a breaker bar., or about 1/4 turn from snug.

the heads are the same casting on each side, with the right head having the egr ports tapped out. The bosses exist for the egr on the left head, but no tap. Same with turbo heads, with the left head having an oil por tapped out. so on this engine i did, the mechanic must have blindly installed the heads backwards, realized his mistake, and ran a copper tube from the other side to meet the egr port on the intake. now, if the cam towers were installed backwards, the cam pulleys would be at the back.

Drill out the spotwelds. you can cut away at the top part just behind it, but the lower part may be easier to drill out the spot welds around the framerails, as it is a lot to cut through. A cordless saw will do more damage, but a drill would last longer with the battery. Bring good, sharp bits, hammer, and cold chisel

because the shifter is rattling around from loose bushings. If you seacrh for the repair, you will understand. and because this transmission has no transfer case. all the 4wd is is a lever. there are also ball socket bushings in the lever rods. take a look!

air up the tires to 35 psi. make sure the suspension bushings are not shot. make sure you do not have bent rear trailing arms. you may have a bad wheel bearing.

I dare you to watch the "Miles Fox and the subaru alliance series 1" videos all in a row, all 123 of them, and then the next 25 of them or so that will complete the series. the "Art of subaru maintenance" videos were actually made around a 3at to dual range swap. The idea of doing the swap came first, then the opportunity to make a video of everything else involved came with that.

gear oil can sometimes appear to be green, /it could be leaking form the drain plug just behind the oil pan.

you could have smashed the oil pick up tube, if you have poor oil pressure all of a sudden. you may have discovered a coolant leak from the water pump weep hole. axle grease sometimes can be green. check for ripped axle boots.

You would be best to sell it to someone that would undertake the work itself, and may have parts and tools to make a project of it. Some folk will swap out their whole car into a cleaner body if one comes along. IF your car drives it can be worth about $1000 on average if it is in clean condition.

sloppy bushings, normal condition, easy fix, search.

you should be able to replace the car for about 1500.

take out one of the front axles, separate the outer end, and reinstall the outer end, put i 4wd. Then you have rwd wioth lo range for some smokey burnouts. Dont do clutch drops because the pto gears wont like it. get a set of turbo 3at axles as they are the same diameter as the 5spd turbo axle, but have 23 splines.

I recommend pulling the engine for a clutch, and pulling the engine to remove the trans. you can remove the trans from under the hood with a crane, and you can get away with not having to bust down more than one ball joint to get the axles on, with all that wiggle room with the motor out. Take the time do do fun stuff on the engine while it's out. It will sit in a 5 gal bucket! you could go with a dual range swap, if you are shopping for a trans, as it will fit with all your existing drivetrain as long as you get the shifter with it. As far as labor goes, you would want to find a shop that is proficient with subarus to give you an accurate quote, and have a competent technician. That or put up some beers and pizzas for some local enthusiasts to help you do yourself

Could be air in the system. Does the heat go cold? Look for bubbles rising in the radiator with the cap off and running. Mild overheats are ok, but after the 34d or 4th time, you could have compromised the head gaskets. Bubbles would be indicative of a hg, if not too bad can be held off by a liquid glass (sodium silicate) type block sealer until you plan for HG job. But first, there could be air in the system from replacing the thermostat. It's a good idea to fill the block by the upper hose or into the thermostat housing before installing it. Did you have overheating or warm operation before doing the thermostat? Is the thermostat the proper size, or a cheaply stamped aftermarket that does not flow as well as an OEM? Check for green corrosion and loose fins on the radiator. Check that the cooling fan is operating at temp or whrn warm. You can test it by jumping the terminals at the thermoswitch on the radiator. The heat should be on, and hold the idle up while adding coolant, and make sure that the thermostat is open(warm upper hose and radiator) before calling it done and installing the cap.

here is what my ea82 88 sedan sounded like with a cherry bomb right after the flange at the y pipe, and straight pipe curved out to the side ahead of the rear wheel. inside the car: outside the car: (mild language caution)

chances are you will only need the head gaskets done and new engine seals. IT is very rare the bottom ends fail on these cars, and the cylinder crosshatches still exist after 300,000 miles. Take you money to someone that knows these cars, and have him bid to rebuild the top end. i have seen the worst examples that were running, repaired, and run reliably. the best example of this was one engine(ea82) that had the heads installed backwards, and the oil relief valve was missing in the oil pump, along with the inner o-ring. I did the head gaskets on this engine and it runs reliable to this day, after correcting what was installed wrong from the previous mechanic. IT was totally a backyard job in my garage, but the key is, i know this engine type well to put it together properly and reliably. Supposedly this engine was rebuilt with new pistons by a russian dude, but i doubt it. Dude got hosed for over 700 bucks. I did the repairs for 300

Why would you need to replace the trans. It's not a chrysler minivan. chances are, the clutch is failed due to improper cable adjustment. And if you have a hard time going into gear from a stop, that is why. a cable adjustment may fix it if the pressure plate has not fatigued yet. a new clutch set will be about 175 and it takes about 2 hours of labor to remove the negine, replace the clutch, and reinstall. You will have the cost of coolant added to that. removing the trans requires disconnecting axles, which requires partially breaking down the front suspension, nevertheless spilling all that stinky gear oil, and laying on your back in it.

The motor will fit and the bellhousing and engine mounts will fit. swap the pitch bar bracket from the ea81 to the ea82. there will be some clearance issues with the disty and the brake master cylinder. install the motor first, then the disty. you may have to remove hill holder. you may have to clock the disty differently and possibly cut off one of the mounting tabs. the front of the engine will clear better if you remove the outer timing belt covers. are you using the ea81 or ea82 intake?

Shavings will blow out of the exhaust valve, or burn up, whichever comes first. There are steel sleeves in aluminum blocks. There would be enough carbon in there anyway. A burning shaving could make a temproary hot spot till it evaporates. Run some sea foam through the intake. All of this is better than a blown out spark plug