MilesFox

MAybe intake gaskets? Car runs right, with low collant, but too low, it overheats. And when full, it leaks in the intake gasket and hydrolocks the motor

I have on old GL's. The wiring harness is already there. Everything bolts in. Swap the door panels or cut a hole for the switch. You need not swap whole doors, but you will need the dorr harnesses for all of it. You can swap doors if its easier.

I'llbet that is the one rx that had been on the craigslist for 1200. so you can make offers, no one wants to sell, and then ultimately, it ends up in the junkyard. what a waste. KEEP THE SOOBS YOU GOT

They are not longer, and share the same dimenions as an ea82

Funny thing, no later than i replied to this post. i went back to the shop and lo and behold, Desmond had locked his key in the brat. We used a screwdriver to peel back the window, and a longer one to pop the fun top latch. It was too easy.

I have broken into my own ea81 and ea82(2 door and 4 door) by wedging out the glass(frameless window) and reaching through. The trick is to get your elbow throeugh, near the topmost rear corner of the glass, and if your arm is skinny enough, you can reach over and pop the lock. On 4 door soobs, i find the rear windows easiest to get at.

coolant temp sensor?

maybe you have a loose cable near the starter. Check the battery terminals, etc. Perhaps it is a coincidence that the starter went out at the same time. The problem could lie in the ign switch in the steering column. Easy to get at. you can jump a wire from the battery to the spade terminal on the starter. If it clicks, the starter needs service. If it turns, the ign switch needs service. Deterine this after first checking the cables.

Nope. These are not stretch bolts in iron blocks. usually the valve stem seals come with an upper end rebuild gasket set. YOu would have to reomove the valve keepers and use some valve lapping paste since you have it apart. i usually forgo the valve stem seals as i am not trying to do that much labor/if the work is not needed/mileage

whoops! i meant to say 10x1.25 A helicoil set should come with a tap, inserter, and the proper size drill bit. Just make sure to not drill beyond the bore. You really only need to drill about 3/4 the way up. The inserter is key to success on the helicoil, there is a barba at the end of the coil the inserter grab onto to thread in, and the coil stays when you unscrew the inserter. I can imagine inserting the coil with the new stud, and that could compromise the torque on the coil. you can use a threadlocker on the coil when you insert it. the 7/16 gm stud is a workaround of the helicoil, since you are just boring out the hole larger, using a coarser thread. I would think that a courser thread wont hold torque as well, or may need more torque than what the aluminum can hold. if you have a hard time finding studs, you can buy the dorman 'help' brand "gm/toyota exhaust manifold" hardware kit (corolla, prism) This kit will come with 3 studs and nuts, and 2 bolts. The extra bolts can be used elsewhere on the car in most places(AC bracketry, alternator, drivehaft carrier, seats

valves are not likely. Put on the head gaskets and go! I have done ountless HG's with no machining. I will use razor blades and brass wire to clean, sometimes some wet sandpaper for carbon deposits. Subaru heads are not too picky to install(my opinion), and it is also of my opinion that machining them down will make them not seat the same, as the heads should probably be machined on a toque plate. The heads have a little bit of concavity with no torque on them. You would have to cook your engine a lot harder to warrant any machining.

metric, and helicoil some people have uses a 7/16" x 14 bottom ing tap to go with that size stud. A helicoil would be a mpre proper fit. Going with the larger stud will compound if it fails or strips out, and then the hole is too wrecked to salvage. If you invest in the helicoils, it can be used on all of the 14mm head bolts (12x1.25)on the engine, especially the idler pulleys for the timing belts, as sometimes they can pull out the threads on neglected engines.

If your mechanic has NOT already replaced the bearing, i would say it has been compromised with the broken axle shaft. Sometimes loose bearings can be vague. This is especially true with ea82 style bearings. The legacy and newer stuff is more typical of modern FWD cars

can you sell a freezer to an eskimo?

Please pm me if you want them. I figure a rough value of 100 bucks. I'm open to offers that include shipping. They are still in the box as they were, and i only opened it to inspect the contents. They were given to me by a brat enthusiast when i hepled him swap out an ea81 in a 78 wagon. They have been in the box this whole time, some six years. They are wrapped in a wax paper, and the rings are in plastic wrapping.

i would suggest loose tranny mounts or pitch bar, and as the vehivle descends, the torque against the engine and trans is enough to bump the lever out of place. also, check for loose linkages. there is a degree a=of adjustability in the linkage

I have ea71 pistons NIB also, with rings and wrists

parking brakes only never work when never used.

Bubbles in the radiator, coolant steam or smell in the exhaust. Poor running condition, or overheats. Milkshake in the oil, when coolant mixes in. If you drain the oil and coolant comes out first. Bubbles in the radiator would be the first clue.

make sure you do not use the arrows on the cam pulleys. your crank mark is correct. did you unplug a cam or crank sensor?

Do you have trai,er wiring? sometimes the wrong pigtail (2 wire vs 3 wire0 will be installed, and it crosses the brake and turn circuits. See if the marker lights are coming on with the brake pedal.

a basic 40 pc socket set is enough to do most work, and some wrenches. Everyting you are dealong with is 10, 12, and 14mm, with some 8mm here and there, and 14, 17, qnd 19 for the rest of the car and suspension. you will want a 7/8, 0r 22mm for the cranl pulley, and the drain plug on he trans. The oil pump will suck in one of the ears on the 'mickey-mouse' gasket(hence its shape). This is common occurrence, and the tick of death is clue to it, and is usually the culprit, ans the dent in the seal will aerate the oil. It is not much out of your way to remove the pump and change this seal. The pump itself rarely fails, and only would do so if the sump were run dry of oil. also, the shaft seal may leak. You can change it without removing the pump. Here is a tip: remove the 12mm nut on the oil pump shaft when the belt is still on, and tighten it down after the new belt is installed. If you remove the pup, you can do this on a bench vise if you hold the shaft still in the vise with a rag to protect it. I would do the fornt seals first. If yhe problem persists, then get into the am tower o rings. But that part is a pain in the arse, and my preference is to pull the engine and just do it all The engine is easy to take out compared to other cars.

take them off completely. The valve cover seal lines up the the dot on the cam

mysterious parking lamp switch that no one ever sees. It exists to run the parking lights without the key on. Everyone does it. Mow, if you marker lies are flashing and wont let you start the car, there is a reset switch near the hood lever(if you have alarm) mystery switches!

235 thousand miles is normal for a subaru to last that long. Using the oil is going to be due to cam seals and other seals leaking, especially the breather plate on the back of the crankcase. you can go ahead and plan or a bottom end rebuild, buy tou wil be disappointed to see the cylinders still have crosshatches in their bores. The bottom ends just don't wear out on these engines. do the engine seals and get another 100,000 or more miles. The obove opinions may be expected of something that is NOT a subaru, but 'conventional' wisdom seldom applies the same way to soobs.