MilesFox

so now this is an axle issue and not a clutch issue. This makes it easier, and less costly to repair. If you put it back in 2wd, set the parking brake and put the car in gear. Observe whch axle you can see turning. If none are turning, observe the inner end. If one side is turnong, you found your culprit. If the whole shaft is turning, the outer end is busted. If the axle nut is turning, then it's a stripped hub caused by loose/improperly installed axle nut.

you know those peugeots you are riing on originally came from moosens via desmond, before i had them.. those wheels are now whores, being around the block on all of our cars

you can go without. Do not throw the tensioner piece away or its hardware, as someone may need it! if you notice, the alt has 2 grooves. If you can find the right mount(non-ac equipped) you can run 2 of the same size belts on the alternator. But the alt mount you need spaces it one belt width back so it lines up to both pulleys. You may get squalling in the rain or making tight turns, since the inner belt is going to help share the lad of the steering and the water pump.

I agree, Run it with some seafoam or marvel's in the oil, and then change to fresh 10w 30. Dont be afraid to warm it up and rev it out. Do be conscious of bleeding the cooling system, as the thermostat is on the bottom, and air pockets are a bit tricky with these subarus. Fill the block from the upper hose, then fill the rad. Run the heat. You should get good hot heat. If not, add more coolant, burp more bubbles. I suggest reading about burping, as this is the only thing you will have to worry about with installing the engine.

1995 toyota tercel, no seats, potential ute chop. Soon-to-be delivery vehicle(jimmy johns)

Thanks. I will consider the cap of the vacuum ports, ans the car does smell rch when running. I do have the ecu for this engine, but not the body harness to tie it in. This brat will have to drive to PA for a prospective buyer

Well, i guess the idle cut would be most important. I believe it is working, since you hear it click when the key is on. Some of the harnes on the ea82 carb has been matched color to color with wires originating from the brat. How necessary are the duty solenoids on the manifold? these route with vac lines in and out of the carb body. The brat seems to run better now. This is a known good engine, as it ran well in my 3door, but would stall at idle after warm. I will recommend we pull off the EGR and have a look and make sure its not stuck open.

The idea is to not twist the bolt faster than it can unscrew. I use a long breaker bar and slow steady torque. Moving too fast will shear the bolt. You are fighting to turn corrosion all the way up the shank of the bolt.

For the rest of you, this was the brat we got in ohio that originally came from florida. it is rust free by midwst standards. Althoughm with any car, rust prevention is recommended. Hey jim, desmond said you would contact me for spare parts, so i can let you know what i have around. For the rest of you, i'm sure jim wants to know what is expected to last, or is expected to wear out. And where to find odd interior pieces, etc. I can attest to a hub and axle nut being replaced. (not the whole knuckle, but the outer hub that engages the axle) This brat also has an ea82 engine and radiator.

did you test alternator volts at the output pin, or the battery terminal. Try testing the volts at the main fuse link. Perhaps the alternating is outputting, but has a bad connection to the rest of the car.

Desmond is selling the brat, and the motor ahs been used in something else, so we have a leftover ea82 as a replacement. The ea82 is installed, fires up, but does not run without feathering the pedal. The ea82 is from an 86 gl coupe, fwd 5spd. The brat is an 86 4spd 4wd. We had the haynes book for a schematic, 'typical 83-86 feedback carburetor' What i want to know is if the egir defaults to open or close. I know that hitachis will run only in the choke circuit with no electrical power. So car it appears that the 2 solenoids on the carb body are clicking, and also the ones on the thermostat(vacuum solenoids of some sort, must open or close at idle/wot?) although i am not sure of their function without a proper vacuum schematic.

With no experience with either, i would say smaller car with smaller motor wins the bet. Unless you have 6 kids and a camper.

yes, do it. As i stated above, i used to break mine down and transport in the sedan. But i had gl-10 seats that fold down. Just lay the parts across the back seat. Being in boxes will be easier than my method. That, and you will have more room since i carried a tool box and a spare engine along with.

go with a 5spd. use the 5spd driveshft, and fab a carrier mount. a 4spd ea81 trans mount will bolt onto the 5spd. use the 5spd flywheel on the ea81 crank, and the ea81 bolts. Use locktite or thread sealer since the bolts go through the crank you will have to notch out the bottom corners of the ea81 bellhousing to clear the teeth on the ea82 flywheel use a m/t starter from ea81/ea82/ej18/22 Simple enough, it's the same as any ea81 swap. Your swap was actually my first clutch/swap/turbo, and it worked for me the first time!

It does that. If you go back to it you can get more squeeze. It takes a few minutes, you squeeze off a millimiter till it's tight. let it rest, and do it again. It just needds to take its time, but it will go. What you are experienceing is normal. Just don't force it. There is more than one way to squeeze a log on your bench:lol:

Yes, you can. Yes, you can search and find plenty of examples yes, a whole donor car is best yes, it is all bolt- in except for having to make a carrier bearing mount, and drill some holes for the rear diff I have done several

entirely different

you would buy it, and it would come in some 3 boxes. The longest part is the legs, and the widest part if the middle of the bottom. you could lay the larger pieces across the back seat.

hmm. Fuse 5? maybe everything is on but the ECU. Does the code led flash or light up?

maybe it is a broken spring in the drear drums. YOyu might have to get into the rear shoes to replace the cable, but look there first.

Glad to see that worked. Someone else is going to benefit from this post when they break a blot. MAybe it should go in the USRM. the wooden wedge idea is pretty clever. My buddy has a stuck mpfi intake bolt, that trick may work since we tried other methods.

This has always worked for me. Including rusty suspensions, and corroded head bolts

There are pictures of a legacy dash crammed into a loyale. I have also heard of xt dashes in gl soobs

Hot syart or cold start? You should be able to administer some starting fluid in one of the pcv lines where it goes to the intake boot. I would rule out the disty/cap if you get spark at all plugs. maybe a weak ignition amplifier? maybe maf related? Try starting it with either the CTS unplugged, or the MAF unplugged and see what happens

assuming you have something like an 89 gl or a 92 loyale(85-94 l series, ea82), The cables run down to near the gas pedal, and the other end is accessible from the footwell. You will see a black plastic cover that snaps on, and behind it is the cable end. the cable just snaps into place, and has an eyeley on the end that fits over a peg on the heater box. YOu can remove the bezel if you need to remove the unit. There are some stealth screws, so dont force anything. The bottom part snaps on and contans the vents, lok for screws flush underneath the bottom edge. The pushbutton controls will come out by itself. BUT, you must first pop off the DEF and the OFF buttons to get at the screws, it just fits in thee onto a rubber peg in the dash. Do this before popping off the bezel. Do remove these screwes first, and be careful, do not break the tabs. Otherwise this thing will fall in and be annoying to use.