MilesFox

we're gonna have a spare one for you before too long...

'88 Coupe Dirt Build: http://www.dirtyimpreza.com/forums/showthread.php?p=289758#post289758

4wd should be enaged and disengaged withthe steering straight on. you may have to reverse or go in the grass or gravel to get out of 4wd if you have been driving on pavement. 4wd no: dry pavement engaging with the wheels turned engaging while spinning wheels 4wd yes: snow mud gravel and dirt roads wet roads at highway speeds and straight roads. not ideal for city driving engage while driving, at any speed, just let off the gas when you hit the button 4wd can be run at any speed up to top speed

Is that painted, or just cleaned up well? I can appreciate the effort to paint by removing EVERYTHING to do so

Out of the shop! I drove half a mile to the gas station with a flat tire. Got there to not have the gas pumps work. i paid 1 dollar to air the tire. I got the car home, the driveshaft rubs on its mount, and there was a fuel leak.... Back in the garage for the first time The legacy had to forfeit its parking spot:eek: I fixed the driveshaft by jacking up on the carrier mount, flexing my bracket enough that it is no longer rubbing, and the driveshaft is further up in the tunnel more where it should be The fuel leak was a simple tension clamp that i forgot to replace with a screw clamp. I replaced that section of hose with high pressure line from e legacy fuel filter. This car was carb with the wrong hose and clamps for high pressure fuel I mounted the body kit! I used pan head self tapping #10 stainless screws, and #12 washers. 22 screws for the side skirts, 18 for the rear parts, and i need some more 6x100 bolts for the front air dam and the rear wing. The front valence is a bit different

I have never used a claybar. Technique and procedures?

I got a parts steering column, let me know if you need anything from it. I would think the ign switch part is universal in all models

Which part of the pipe are you referring to? You can go 2 1/4 inch from the y pipe flange, but the y pipe should be more lile 1-7/8

I would say within 2 inch. the pipe is much smalle behind theheat shields, in the header parts, anyway

I am taking my 86 3door to the Don Miller Dealer in Madison 5th annual Subaru Car Show. I would like to make my car pretty and clean! I have detailed the interior with a vacuum, and mequiar's 'armor all' type product. It did a good job to get the dry look out of the dash plastic, and left a pleasant fruity smell, and this car was very clean inside to begin with. The exterior, however, needs a good polish. there are a few dings and scratches that i can live with, so long as the rest of the car is shiny! I will be treating the rubber with siicone spray, as it works good, and i have already done it last year. The rest of the car is now covered in dust from my build and being in a shop environment. This car has been re-painted, and the celar coat is flaking off the side, and is foggy on the top. I thought of wet sanding some of this and re- clearing. Or at least do that, polish, and wax, and do the clear later when i am finished with body repairs such as rust on the wheel arches and rockers I know it's not a good idea to wax before painting, but the painting is still on the slate and is not immediate. So, i just want to make my car show ready. I am asing on what you guys would use, how much of different products for different details, and whether claybar and wax or some spray type product would work best.

Board Member: Miles Fox! Engine: 01 impreza ej223 and OBDII harness, ej22e intake boot/mpfi cover/alt/ps Chassis: 1986 GL Coupe Runabout 3-door FWD 5spd 1.8 ea82 Hitachi Tranny: 89xt6 Full-Time 4wd center lock/ea82 flywheel Other: 89xt6 suspension/axle/brakes. Slotted rotors. xt6 airbox and dummy maf. ej22 hose cut to fit. Hole made for MAP sensor Factory fit!

I notice that the outside bolts will totally un-torque. The first step is to seat the gasket. Then the next steps are torquing it down. Based on my last HG job a few weeks ago, this is normal.

Maybe the timing belt is fine and the cam or crank sensor got broken. Save yourself some labor and remove the outer covers, and break off the middle cover so you do not have to remove the crank pulley. and once again, going with no covers makes future maintenance a breeze, as most folks will tell you Your engine is also non-interference(ej22e) and is voted the best reliable subaru engine

Not trying to point a finger. I have dreams at night that frustrate me about losing or keep ing track of my things. Like i said, it really doesnt matter, other than i just never looked at all the parts. I am also frustrated with the shop building, picking up large messes, and continually moving large volumes of too many things. Again, You are welcome to any of the parts in the stash, just so long i make sure there are parts that i will need. And as far as selling parts goes, first i will distribute any parts to all of our cars that need a missing or better piece. The rest i would sell on usmb to midwest regions, since the parts are scarcer, and use the funds to get into autosports where we would be team drivers.

You can go on right away with the lift and the wheels, all the while you are driving your car while you accumulate the ej22 and harness, and when you have it all, drop it in at one moment and keep driving!

Does this car have a trailer hitch or wiring? also, has the mechanic checked the brake switch on the pedal? Take a look under the dash at the top of the brake pedal. The switch is like a button that is pushed in at rest, and pops out when the pedal is depressed. Maybe the button is stuck, and you can free it up by wiggling it. This should be the first thing to check when troubleshooting the electricals

It makes me wonder how much of these things you have fro sale cam e from that load. Not that i really care, other than i wanted to know ALL of what was in that lot before divying it up, knowing what i will need, and then everyone gets their pick. I never got to look at this stuff since i was up under a car the whole time it was being loaded. And the stuff to be picked was to be used for yourselves, not to be sold! I am enforcing this since the last time i gave parts away, they were turned around and sold, when i could have sold or used them myself.

yah, i be rappin on my 2 turntables and 2 microphones. Bring it by my house. Maybe do a bonfire or bbq or TF on the mic

I am reserving it for the 86 3door Then i would use the one from the 86 on the 88 The other piece can be cleaned up for jodi or desmonds car I fixed my driveshaft problem by jacking up the carrier mount to bend it up off the driveshaft, and to tuck the driveshaft further into a more proper location. I fixed the fuel leak by replacing the tension clamp with a screw clamp, and a high pressure hose from a pull-off legacy fuel filter. I am going to fit the ground kit and the wing to the car to make the holes and have it bolt up. I would like to paint the wing at least. I may paint the skirts all brown. I have others to use, and reserve the cleanest ones for the final product. On the 88, i am going to fit the xt6 rubber guards against the rear wheel well.

where did that NOS valence go? i could not find it. I need it for my 86 3door

I had this problem on a 95 legact mt. Every now and again the key would not come out, and i would have to wiggle it at odd angles to get it out. The key cylinder or the key itself will wear out. You can have a locksmith remove a tumbler, as this was a fix for someone i knew with a chrysler van. if the key itself is worn down, the dealer can produce a fresh one with the VIN. sometimes you get copies of worn keys, and you have generation degradation like when you dub vhs tapes so to speak.

do the timing belts and get another 100,000 iles or more out of it. The car is more resilient than what people will tell you. I see ej22's go 200,000 miles on their original timing belts. At this point do the water pump. you can spend the same money on another car that will still need the work anyway. keep what you have, and it will keep going.

If you do look in a factory owners book, it will stat that "Towing with your subaru is not recommended" In my opinion, i think the driveline of a subaru with its engine would haul a 1 ton load on its back, or pull 5,000 lbs, if the subaru itself were heaveier, with heavy enough hubs and bearings to support the weight. I have towed whole cars with GL subarus, once across 300 miles through chicago. I would say if you are towing with a subaru, its not as relavant as what the car can do and the weight of the trailer, but the experience of the person driving, and understanding the dynamics of towing. Towing a fishing boat with a subaru is cake. end of story.

Typically tongue weight is 10% of the overall load, so that would be 200 pounds on a 2000 lb load

this has heppened to me. I bypassed witha toggle by backfeeding power nto the green wire, and drove it this way for almost 2 years before i discovered fuse 5 was out.