MilesFox

it fits everything

It's too bad you cannot just buy a panel for these cars, but instead, you have to self engineer something that otherwise should be simple to do. It forces you to be clever. no clever, no subaru! I had to to cut and weld on framerails in my 86 gl coupe, cutting and replacing layer by layer, trying to duplicate the stampings. I commend your efforts. I understand everyone's opinions about gong after western cars, but i see no one making the effort to export them.

Only if it will produce a fender. At least the paint is not scratched, cresed, or cracked. I can probably pull the crease with a block of dry ice. I just dont want to f with it.

dustin schmaus let his motorcycle fall into my 3door. There is like, the rest of the garage on the other side of his car. But his bike was all up on mine. There was a reason i had a preference for the far end. now comes the impossible: finding a brown fender with no rust

I second old appliances. I used part of a furnace cover, some thinner metal from home depot(not cost effective in large quantities) and part of an xt fender. The xt fender welded the best, being thicker. The xt metal was soft and pliable, versus the metal from home depot was stiffer and thinner. The furnace cover was more like the metal on the car, softer and more bendy. for rivet patching, i have used ductwork, roofing flash, and u-haul truck roof skins aluminum(the best!)

pull the engine

I built mine retaining the ac, what i can. 86 gl: I hae kept all the original ac lines and wirings. There is no room for fans, though. I have one of those aftermarket slim fans on the back side of the radiatir, since the AC condensor is installed. Typicallt this goes on the front of the rad. The fan is a tight fit, installed with zipties and washers(i could not find the little radiatir zips that come with a fan) I would have to hybrid some hoses. I found that a 94 impreza hose fits for the high side, to use the impreza compressor. The other hose would have to be custom, or somehow, you would have to retrofit an impreza condensor and all the lines back to the dryer to be a direct fit for the compressor. I have noticed at junkyards there are a good 3 different styles of compressors and fittings. There was no way for me to mount the car's original compressor. I would have wanted to see if i could make it fit, if i had the ame compressor from an xt with the flat belt. I say it can be done, if you can work around the hoses

finding ones with a philips/hex is best. Maybe snag some from a junyard? otherwise, what you will be looking for is a standards size in the metric section of the hardware store.

m6x1.00

i had an 81 suzuki gn400 with a broken cable. I drove it 150 miles with a passenger. Push off in neutral and pop the gear once rolling. when stopping, shift into neutral, and repeat step one. With normal driving, the clutch is really only necessary yo get rolling form a stop.

This makes me want to come up there and manufacture some subarus one day. It can be done.

you will have to invent a tee for the crank breather on top of the block, since it is not present on the spfi

yes, they will. and you should go up .5 in compression, too

all of the ea82 4eat(full-time 4wd) i have seen have all been 25 splines. what about legacy rear axle stubs, since they slide into the diff much like a 4eat?

I wonder if the brown one in duluth was the one from morgan m in minneapolos. I poked that car with a stick and made it run(firing order) some millions of years ago.

Might i add that if you part off and junk the old models, all of a sudden there are seas of spare parts fro cars that no longer exist. The last car on earth will not need 5 sets of doors

I would doubt the knuckle is deformed. You wouldhave to wear it down so much that the rotor locks up against the caliper bracket and make the car virtually undrivable to get anywhere near deform ing the knuckle. If you have your doubts, pull a junkyard knuckle, and have a new bearing pressed into it.

complete cars are better than piles of parts. ypu sell a part off one car, and then all of a sudden you have an incomplere car that either cannot drive or cannot sell. Don't try to bank on the cars. the idea lf having ithem is to drive them. Yu collect cars to make the ones you have run, and sell/dispose of the leftovers. spare parts are best kept for the next one that rolls in otherwise, you are just killing the last of them

I have used a 3/8" extension with black tape wrapped around it, and it worked for me. Another trik is to leave the pp bolts loose, enough tto hod the disc in place, but with some wiggle room. once mated, then tighten the pp bolts thru the starter hole. Cleverness is great!

Pull your hub and have a shop press in the new bearing. Install the seals yourself. You would only be in into one hour of shop labor. this is the most cost effective way to do it if you do not have bearing tools

That is too bad. And also what is worse, they sold many more millions of them out west, and they are stilla roundin abundance. I rescued the one ea82 around here, that would probably be in a junkyard if i didn't snatch it up for 300 bucks. I am not going to *************** about a rust spot on a car that would otherwise not exist.

I am not implying that the car has been ran hard, but this is what a potential buyer would presume. I woud think that buying a built car is a better deal than trying to build one. This going with being a buyer that is familiar with this kind ofcar, and the mods involved. Basically, your buyer should be someone who is a driving enthusiast that does autosports, versus some fanboy street racer, or overly worrisome suburban type.

I figure this car can be worth towards 3500 in the collector market. I have repaired the rust underneath with metal and welding. TO go for the 3500 dollar mark, i would intend on swapping agx sturts, or even sti struts or springs, and i would like gold rs or wrx wheels, or even lgt wheels. It has slotted brembo brakes in the front, for the xt6. I have parts to convert to 2 pot calipers and rotor, or at least the larger rotor and the xt6 caliper on the larger bracket. The engine is tight, but a reseal and timing belt would be due soon based on the presumed mileage. I would like to build a franken motor with cams and header, eventually. I have no interest in selling this car, but like on the antiques roadshow, the value placed on an item is based on what it should be insured for.

I have mostly 'restored' an 86 GL coupe, along with swapping to full xt6 suspension and trans, and ej223 engine. 1986 Gl Coupe. Originally ea82 carb, Fwd 5spd. 110,000 mi on body 135,000 on driveline/trans somewhere between 80,000-100,000 mi on engine All parts are oem factory parts NEW: trans rear seal, rear wheel bearing and seals Castrol synthetic diff and trans oil Full RX body kit. Wing is body color, sideskirts are gold Framerails have been repaired with new metal. Rocker sills and rear quarters repaired with fiberglass stainless steel fasteners on the fenders, gas tank, and fuel/brake line brackets. All fuel and brake lines have been re-conditioned Anythig disassembled has been treated with por-15 and stone guard in the wheel wells, underbody, trans tunnel. The interior carpets are immaculate, and all the plastic is in great shape, save for a few scratches in the rear. Seats are in great shape, but the vinyl is cracked in a few places AC would be functional with the right hose to make it fit. I am interested in how much this car could be worth, considering the condition of the car itself, and what it has for a swap. This is a very clean swap, looks factory, the harness is in a proper location and the ecu is under the steering column. IT won a best vintage soob trophy at the Don Miller meet in Madison.

I would think the water pump can make it till the next belt change. I would say do the cam seals now, though, since they will leak before anything else fails. The crank seal is optional, i think it can ride to at least 150,000 miles Typically, i see failed water pumps go at just over the 200,000 mile mark, which will ruin the timing belt, the original one. Yes, the original timing belt and water pump CAN go 200,000 miles But, you can do it now, if you chose, based on how much $$$ you want to spend for parts at this moment.