MilesFox

I got the framerail on the one side of the 3door 95% finished and then i ran out of wire. I forgot to take a picture. I think i have radiation sickness form the uv and xrays. I cut my helmet down to handheld and replaced the lens. And with spare tims, my welds are much better now. I made my tools portable, and now i can brek down the control arms in my backyard and degrease them, por15 them in the rusty parts, and paint hte rest chassis black, available in the can at napa. I am using a zink weld-thru prime as illustrated in a particular u-tube series on bodywork. I am together enogh i can mount the radius rod plate to the body. I am debating to do all the seam welds, and instead of welding on the edges, i am thinking f spot welding between the spots, for more penetration and a cleaner look. I am going to seam weld the radius rod plate body tampings, trans mount stamping, pitch bar mount, and around the strut towers. I may go down the whole trans tunnel. I will have to treat surface rust along the trans tunnel, and mount the xt6 shifter before installing the trans. I may go with mounting the trans, mount, and pitch bar to the body before installing the engine crossmember __________________

You can service the oil pump simply by replacing its seals. The dealer would naturally sell you a new unit, for the sake of it being apart, but the oil pumps do not fail by themselves. Also , the gauge on the dash is notoriously inaccurate al tlow rpms, but the owners manual will state that it is normal to read towards 0 psi at idle when warm. The next thing is the cam tower o rings. Replace these when servicing the lifters. If they leak, this drops pressure to the lash adjusters. Whay commonly happens id the o ting and the oil pump seals will suck in like a pac man shape, and aerate the oil causing the lifter tick. This, and compounded by excessive carbon, sludge, maintenance history. Sometimes the marvel oil and sseafoam may clear it, a different weight of oil, doing some spirited driving may make it go away. Sometimes it can come and go, or go away when warm. I would recommend replacing the oil pump seals. If it perssts, do the o_rings. These engines are relatively simple to work on. I would recommend pulling the engine to take the cam towers off as assembly will be infinitely easier

PArts do rust, and eventually disintegrate, in the rust belt at least. It would be worht your effort to pull the brake hardware off and clean up the rust, re-paint, ad then anti-seize all the bolts and silicone grease the caliper slides and rubber boots. Even if your brakes are not due for replacement yet, you will thank yourself that the parts come off easily. Otherwise, with a new car, going all the way till the pads are gone, can be long enough for bolts to seize and caliper slides to get stuck. Its a good rule to take something apart and put it back together, just so you can take it apart when its time for replacement

I would think that if your engine has the plastic pulleys, that the metal ones will be backward compatible. But this i assume since subarus seem to be cooperative in that manner. I am going to be asking a lot of questions about an ej222 in this regard, with what can be retrofitted from an ej22e

what to look for is if the engine is a 1.8 or 2.2 Usually the 2.2 is in the 'outback sport' package from 96 on. Also, anything older than 96 may be FWD. Although not horrible for someone desiring a 30mpg subaru. Other than that, its still a subaru, and mechanically identical to the legacy as far as the underpinnings

go for the gates brand. I used a used set of pull-off ITM rollers to replace some shagged oem ones. go for the cheap set for now, install them, leave all the covers off, and by 3oo miles, go buy a set of Gates or Goodyear Gatorback, or even Continental timing belts and change them out in 20 minutes.

U-haul will not approve a hook-up to a vehivle that is not qualified. A dolly will be rented to mid size sedans and mini vans, most v6 size cars, with curb weights around 3500 lb, and a 3500 lb class 2 hitch, 1-1/4 or 2 inch receiver. The general rule is, the vehicle in tow should noy exceed the weight of the tow vehicle. The nice thing about a dolly or towbar is there is no tongue weight on the tow vehicle. What model of tow bar do you have? I use one to tow my subarus. I have the valley unit like the ones sold at u- haul. Coincidentally, the pins that go into the supplied shackles, just happen to fit the tow loops on ea81, ea82, 1st and 2nd gen legacy, using big thick spacers leftover from hitch install kits(ask the hitch pro for a handful) and the supplied pins and cotter pin. I never used the shackles, and i have towed so many subarus, universally fitting, across anywhere from a few blocks to 300 miles but if your tow loops are ruined, i would sat remove the bumper and try to fashion a piece of hot steel angle iron that bolts in place of the bumper, and mount your tow shackles to it.

That is odd. Maybe the pic is just showing the different size of seals, although there should be 2 cam seals. The crank has no o-rings. you should have an o-ring for the cam seals, one for each side, about 2 inches in dia. for the oil pump, you shouldhave a large o-ring that goes over the housing that sticks into the block, the mickey mouse seal for the face of the block, and a shaft seal behind the pulley on the oil pump.

I would beg to differ that if the shifter would not go into gear, the car will not be in gear for the 4wd. And i also would say that if the front diff was shot, the 4wd still wont go, since it drives the PTO to the rear. I do like shawn's idea of the 2/4 wheel engagement being stuck n the middle, but i still maintain that a stripped hub is the likely acute culprit.

Based on my experience, a subaru is the only car that can break down, and still drive home:banana:

connect the yellow wire from the car's original coil to the tach wire on the ej22

goes in 4wd is a dead giveaway. I broke an axle in arkansas, removed it, put in 4wd, ad drove another 600 miles. I managed to get another car home 15 mile on a stripped hub(fwd). I had the rear diff fall out of my sedan, and drove it another 250 miles before fixing it(now i am bragging) You can literally drive a subaru with the axles dangling off the ground. My answer is based on what is MOST LIKELY to happen and is usually the culprit when this situaion arises. So if it is a stripped hub, it is caused by improper torque or installation of the axle nuts(washer on backwards) and based on all of this, what may or will happen as a result of this is a compromised wheel bearing. i suppose i could direct to an article on how to do the axles and wheel bearings, what tools to use, etc Have fun and enjoy the subaru!

drain plug

deebo goes beyond Tiny Lister

explain how it goes in 4wd. what the OP is implying is that the car will not go, when in gear, in 2wd, but does in 4wd. This one is so obvious

broken axle or stripped hub. if the diff failed, you would have had problems over some time beforehand Set the parking brake, put the car in gear, ipen the hood, and see if the axle is turning. then look and see if the axle nut is turning. if the nit is turnoing, you have a stripped hub. If only the axle, or one of the axle cups is turning, then replace the axle

Yeah, this is a good idea. What i am saying is the felpro will have oem HG/s and cork oil pan gaskets are really arbitrary compared to durability of head gaskets. I used to have a list of napa/victor reinz sets for ea82's, high quality, but napa no longer carries victor and the part numbers no longer apply. if anyone were to look up napaonline.com for their subarus, it will give a whole list of diferent part numbers an manufacturers, price for the same part such as a wheel bearing or a gasket or sensor. there is really an art to shopping for auto parts around suppliers, retailers, manufacturers, and mark-ups.

Your best bet with modifying a legacy is to retrofit goodies from other subaru models and build from that. you can do outback struts and wheels for lift. you can swap a 2.5 in place of a 2.2, or get a header and a delta cam. Make your build based on your preferred driving environment, off road, street, track

pull the radiator. umbolt engine and pitch bar. jack uo the trans to make the engine clear the motor ounts. have buddy pick u one side of the motor and move it forward away from the trans. tie a chan and a 2x4 and 2 piople can pul it out. 2 people can carry a soob motor, one person can squat to lift it into a 5gallon bucket to set it on. you can drop the trans if you prefer, but i think cleverer ways to yank the motor is still easier than dropping the trans

Be aware that the hatchback is an ea81, and for 1987, the ea81 hatch and brat(80-89) were in production alongside ea82 wagon, coupe, and sedan(85-94. your key words will be 1800 SOHC or OHC, and NOT OHV 85-94 in years listings try an order for a 1990 loyale to eliminate ea81 cross references

Pulling the engine is easy if you want to do other service like timing belt or engine selas. A motor can come out within one hour. if you are good, you can partially pull the motor and move it forward, leaving a lot of things still connected like throttle and heater core if you are just trying to slip in a new disc. if you drop the trans, you may have to pop the ball joints to get the wiggle room to move the axlesm and contend with the shifter, driveshaft, and exhaust. standing over the car with a crane is much easier than on your back in a puddle of gear oil

Well, there are those who make decisions based on speculation, and those who make decisions based on experience. I brought back my old thread about the topic for further discussion. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=108259 BY the way, i am not endorsing felpro or dismissing OEM. the point of this argument is that peope are educated in what they are shopping for, and can make their choice from that

I am refreshing this thread due to the continuing OEM only suggestions for at least head gaskets, when, continually, we are still getting OEM gaskets with fuji stampings in ej22 composite and ej25d mls engine seal sets. The point of this thread is to see what manufacture of seals you get when you go non-oem for oem you would get NOK seals. typical felpro has national seals, made in canada or mexico, but, depending on the application, you may end up with an OEM part in the box. One example, and exception to the HG rule would be the felpro ea82 set. Felpro is now stamping their own 'perma torque' head gaskets for ea82, as everyone recommends, on the premise that there is no re-torque sequence, and is contradictory to the 'OEM ONLY' rule. BUT, at the same time, with the felpro ea82 set, you are getting OEM valve cover grommets and rubber, oil pump mickey mouse seals, and rear main seal. The easiest way to explain what you get as a mix of mfgs in any one brand is this: Parts vendors and gasket makers will do what it takes to fill a box per application. If fel-pro is making a subaru gasket set, they will stamp out their own cork abnd paper for intake, exhaust, and oil pan. But if the set calls for a part they are not making themselves, they will source the part from the next mfg, and the next, so they can package the whole deal in a box with their brand name. If anyone who is shopping to save dealer markup costs(if they cost too much vs other sources) i recommend the following brands as alternatives, as these are OEM manufacturers NOK seals BOSAL has been real good with ea82 exhaust parts, and the metal/graphite faced gaskets If your big chain auto store shows "listed, but not available" they will not get you the part. The part can be looked up, but they wont go through the vendoe that carries it if it's not in their current sales structures, as they want to sell the in-house brands and the cheap chinese wholesale mfg's. IF that is the case, get a part number, and go to napa, and use the number that napa can order the part for you from the vendor that supplies it. I hope this thread is useful, and i encourage and would appreciate if members here would make note of what comes in their gasket sets, and report them here! NGK ignition and plugs

I forgot to mention you will want the head gasket set with the most recent revision/part number. suppose it would be best to get a part number from subaru dealer, buy you can cross reference that number and go with a different supplier for a better price.