MilesFox

removing an XT dash is like pulling teeth:grin:

its easy to accudentally pull the cable out the back when screwing with heater hoses. DO NOT REMOVE THE BEZEL as it is not necessary, and will break easy. to get ath the instrument cluster, drop the steering column. That bezel is worth 100 bucks not cracked. if you insist on removing it, remove the knockout plug in the clock, then you can remove the radio, then the bezel, but DON"T DO IT

the rear part of the xt will remain for the purposes of a jug to modify a legacy rear suspension in it, and if it works, i can just bolt it to my 3door!

It's actually less work to pull the whole thing as a unit than as individual pieces. consider this if you find a donor car, and just swap over the whole thing. once you have it out, you can inspect the underbody of the car

sometimes i will use ultra grey on the intake gasket. it would be nice to find the graphite faced ones any more. Have you tried Bosal? bosal is good with exhaust parts for these soobs.

broken timing belt. timing belt drives the distributor, which drives the coil and the fuel pump. non-interference, easy fix. Search the terms milesfox and timing belt. good info

I now have wheels and brakes. I got a new battery. Car drives at this moment. I will be starting a trans and frontend swap very soon

The xt6 is cut into about 4 pieces, all of the driveline is out, i am going to load it on the trailer to hold it, or go to the junkyard, whichever is most convenient. I am looking to go tho the junkyards and search out a obdII ej motor with trans, from 95-98 forester, legacy, outback, MT, 2.2 or 2.5, 3.9 or 4.11(with rear diff) I would like to do this next weekend if we can campaign for a junkyard day. I should see what sturtevant's has to offer. i can get my motor and trans for 500 or 300 for one or the other. for that price take everything from the car that is relative to these parts

May yours rest in peace. may mine rest in pieces

It can fit if you made it, but it would probably stick out past the grille. you would have to remove the bumper and make something crazy to look right. the best way would be to have an Xt to chop up and hybrid some stampings to not be hillbilly

you can do all legacy/impreza front end if you chop in ea82 control arms(and hog out the ball joint hole) will substitute for the xt6 parts in front. you will need axle doj's from a 3at turbo ea82(1985-1994 gl, loyale(part time 4wd, or FWD) for the rears, you need at least the xt6 rear hubs. if you can get the backing plate from an xt6, you might be able to buy loaded calipers with braket at an auto parts retailer with the xt6 rear hubs, you can modify legacy or impreza rear brakes. for the cost of individual parts versus a kit, there is a kit available out of australia. if you want to see about using the whole impreza/legacy rear suspensions, check out the land of oz. I am thinking of grafting in a legact rear end into an ea82, if i can figure out the struts. Brake Kit (MY Series) Looking for better stopping performance in your MY/Brumby? Check out our kit to upgrade to Impreza/Liberty brakes. www.crossbredperformance.com/products

This car is an automatic, but yes, you can. you need the AT crossmember and driveshaft. if you go through the trouble, swap a 4eat from an 88 and up gl-10 or xt, rx, special order GL. If you do this along with harness and tcu, you can go with ej 4eat's and have the bellhousing for an ej motor. you culd just chop in a 4eat from a legacy to start with. There may be the potential for custom driveshaft, at least is true wih ej mt swaps

Here is the video with the dogs. This is how they were barking at me in the bathroom. http://www.youtube.com/user/MilesFox#p/u/82/nVJvqIOiAuc So whatever happened to your brats. I thought i saw a post a little while ago. Nothing is more fun than swapping y pipes at 4:30 pm with a bad hangover. How did the ea82 swap hold up?

try looking in here on my channel 'subaru alliance series 1' http://www.youtube.com/user/MilesFox#g/c/435C316D927EEC93 was it the guy in lancaster that owes you the money? i have video of his house, as i was there to work on his car, got there late, stayed the night, and dude left before i awoke inside a house with a pack 7 dogs. When i woke up, the dogs freaked out, and i had to trap myself in the bathroom and break out of the window.

i have seen factor original belts go to about 135-145,000 mi before they let go on their own. The timing belt CAN outlast its service interval by twice. after the nd belt change, consider the new rollers and tensioners. if you just removed the covers, you could keep the spare belts in the trunk. with open covers, its literally a 20 min job with 2 tools, you can do it off the side of the road in no more time than it takes to change a tire.

my 78 toyota camper with 300,000 miles has its original clutch. Driving habit, and probper adjustment plays a lot in clutch life. most failed clutches i see are caused by over-tightened clutch cable. a clutch, with good maintenance and proper driving, should last at least 200,000 miles or more

We should make a list of your products that are applicable to 1980's thru 1994 GL and loyale subarus.

Yo, what it do! I landed up here in milwaukee shortly after that. Have you seen the videos? search Subaru alliance #100 and the next consecutive episodes on the 'tube. Sweet Baja. the day after the off road meet, we found a random dude in a baja at the car wash and made him join us. If you remember daniel, in the blue trashwagon, he has a baja now. His name is 'subaru alliance' on this forum.

Turbone has the most valid advice. The rest of you are speculating things that never occur. Original eom gaskets are graphie faced, same with exhaust and intake. The aluminum will squeeze down with the torque sequence. The graphite gasket allows for expansion of the head under such torque. The fl-pro gaskets have been alright for me. I never mill the heads, just clean them off with a razor and carb cleaner, and brass wheel for tougher spots. I would advise you to see if the freeze plugs are present(singe to took it to a machinist. This can be inspected by just removing the valve cover. I also agree with turbone about the oiling of the bolts to get a proper torque. I have seen carbon and rust on bolts. I used gunk and moved the bolt back and forth, and cleaned out with carb cleaner. I wish you could still get the victor reinz gasket, as they were oem with a fuji mark. Felpro supplies genuine grommets and with ea82, and genuine HG for 2.5 engine. Suppose milling the heads took some of it flexibility away and is now bowed at the edges with the torque introduced. Otherwise, you may just have a bad intake gasket. I have done a million ea82 headgaskets, so this is where i am coming from.

This will help you understand the routing through the hoses

The gates brand with rollers is a good product. Longevity is more based on driving habits, and oil seal maintenance. if you want to go all out, do the cam, crank, and oil pump seals. you can ditch the inner and outer timing belt covers to make any future maintenance a breeze. do the water pump and timing belts now, ditch the covers, and do the cam and oil pump seals when they leak or if you get a lifter tick.

I would change the bearing at the same time. the mechanic should have suggested a bearing replacement, he was already there. with my experiences, loose axle nuts that caused poor handling or striped splines, most likely compromises the wheel bearing, since the torque of the nut holds it all together.

i was gonna say:

it could just be rusty slide pins, dissasemble, clean, and lube with syl-glide. put some around the piston boot as well

I would first look at changing the PCV valve. this is a classic symptom. The PCV valve is located on the back of the intake just behind the throttle body. second, i would look at the insides of all the hoses. I have seen them carbon up like corroded arteries. These hoses are vinyl. you may be able to find vinyl hose, but 5/8 heater hose would suffice, but you may have to change them periodically due to oil infliction. Make sure to run enough length to not cause a kink. The original hoses may break at their fittings. I haet gun helps. Don'y be disappointed if it breaks, use a heater hose, or buy one from a forum member who have spares! Third, if you are ambitious, remove the valve covers and clean out the trap that is behind the pcv hose fitting on the inside after all that, do the sea foam treatment. the can calls for 13/ in oil, 1/3rd in fuel, and 1/3rd to suck into the engine. this engine may be so carboned, that you may just want 2 bottles, and treat the car 3 times with the first, feed it till the car stalls, and let sit. try sitting overnite. add some to the oil, drive it around in a spirited manner, and then change the oil.