MilesFox

I would change the bearing at the same time. the mechanic should have suggested a bearing replacement, he was already there. with my experiences, loose axle nuts that caused poor handling or striped splines, most likely compromises the wheel bearing, since the torque of the nut holds it all together.

i was gonna say:

it could just be rusty slide pins, dissasemble, clean, and lube with syl-glide. put some around the piston boot as well

I would first look at changing the PCV valve. this is a classic symptom. The PCV valve is located on the back of the intake just behind the throttle body. second, i would look at the insides of all the hoses. I have seen them carbon up like corroded arteries. These hoses are vinyl. you may be able to find vinyl hose, but 5/8 heater hose would suffice, but you may have to change them periodically due to oil infliction. Make sure to run enough length to not cause a kink. The original hoses may break at their fittings. I haet gun helps. Don'y be disappointed if it breaks, use a heater hose, or buy one from a forum member who have spares! Third, if you are ambitious, remove the valve covers and clean out the trap that is behind the pcv hose fitting on the inside after all that, do the sea foam treatment. the can calls for 13/ in oil, 1/3rd in fuel, and 1/3rd to suck into the engine. this engine may be so carboned, that you may just want 2 bottles, and treat the car 3 times with the first, feed it till the car stalls, and let sit. try sitting overnite. add some to the oil, drive it around in a spirited manner, and then change the oil.

dont forget that the axle issue needs to be solved. you would have to hybrid an axle. the axle is 23 splines, where an ej trans is 25. i am unclear that a turbo 3at 23 spline DOJ(larger cup) fits oon an ea81 axle, as it does on an ea82/xt6/ej axle

you can use parts form any gl trim subaru. the harness exists in the loyale behid the trim between the doors. you can salvage the door harness from a gl, and have plug and play.

same goes for all the hate on ea82 and ea82t. ea82t has a hose leak. chuck it and swap a 2.2, they say.

'parking lights' like when you are parking off the side of the road. some municipalities require it fro curbside parking after dark in urban areas. much different than hazard, which denotes emergency or stay clear

this is because there is no way to operate the lights without the key on. this is an override switch for the running light, to be used when the key is off

metric m6x1.00 thread, you can find them anywhere.

should you find an ej22t engine, i have a harness from a 91 ss turbo. at least your car's cossmember will accommodate a turbo engine. take a shot at selling the ea82 harness before junking it.

on the backside of the flange. a longer bolt would go all the way through

yes, this is the part that is missing, a little black thing that is a switch for the ke isert. if you can find the wires to it, touch them together and you should get your chime. but you will have the chime going any time the door is open with r without the key. maybe the previous owner tok it out because it was annoying

you might be able to put a nut at the other end of the hole. I have done this, on the frontmost bolt

the car would work in 1st, and in 2nd. when in D, the car may want to stay in 1st, but will shift to 2nd if you move the shifter to 2nd. this is classic governor problem. worst case scenario, the gear on the governer is chewed up. rebuild or replace, the part is the same in any 3at ea81 or ea82. this is the perfect excuse to pick up a car for dirt cheap, and fix for nothing, or almost nothing. 3rd gear is not out, but ut wont shift into 3rd with a bad governor.

I got one of these radios that came in an xt6 i picked up. I's much shallower, and fits without sticking out of the console.

I just parted off an 89xt6, originally with air struts, but converted to coilovers. I have a bunch of air strut related parts: o-rings, plastic lines, solenoids, compressor and tank. if you need spare parts let me know. i can bundle up all the extra lines and o-rings at least. let me know before i toss them the compressor and distribution is located behind the driver side fender catchthisfox @ gmail

I always recommend pull the engine when doing a clutch. do your timing belts and engine seals at the same time! It is possible the car still has it's riginal timing belt. don't be surprised if it breaks soon. when you have the engine out, i highly encourage you to replace the oil pump seals(pumps are never bad, but the seals suck inward and aerate the oil) and to also replace the cam tower o-rings. this should clear the lifter tick. these cars are relatively simple to work on. if you are not a mechanic, these cars are great to learn on.

I am a die hard subaru owner, and i have had some volvo experience. My first subaru was an 84 gl wagon 4x4 mt lighting silver. My current subaru is an 86 3door runabout, root beer brown, FWD 5spd(getting a 5 lug/fulltime/ej22 swap) I had a 92 960 wagon. great car for towing, good as a work van, not the best for fuel economy, but no worse than an ej22 with a bad o2. I did the brakes on this one, and i have done brakes on a 740, and the guy i work for just picked up 240. If not subarus, toyotas and volvos would be my pick for ease of design and service, as i tend to stay away from anything with a transverse engine. I was impressed the first time i drove a saab 900 turbo, fwd, in the snow, handled as good if not better than a fwd subaru-equal length axles!(non-transverse)

all that wouls cost more than the car, versus a nintendo laying around. eulators are not the same, and on any other design than the NES controller, is not the same, except for Captain N's belt buckle. Not trying to hate. I got my new nintendo in 1986. now if i only knew what it was like to have a new suabru in 1986

I have had the idea of salvaging the cupholder piece that fits in the ashtray of a GRAND AM, and drilling with a hole saw on the top of the passenger dash, and using that as a cup holder. it would work for 12 oz cans, but fountain drinks may interfere with the windshuiled. Definitely can be done, since there is plenty of hollow space in the dash

i am thinking of ea82. does your dome light work with the door? there is also a switch in the ign cylinder that tells the car if there is a key or not. suppose that could be it?

substitute 'clutch' for the word 'trans' and it makes more sense. clutch cable is probably way too tight. common mistake people make, and then it ruins the pressure plate.

the boot is there hot keep dust off of the inner tie rod, which rides along a seal. the seal leaks, and the boot fills with fluid. the leak can be caused by contaminants, age, heat, or the wrong fluids. the subaru uses regular old dextron II/III ATF for the power stering and NOT the gm/chrysler celar stuff. anyone who is using the wrong fluid should not be working on your car, since it is generally knowledgeable by most mechanics that japanese cars usually use ATF for the steering fluid.

dont he-man on those little bolts. use a 1/4 drive tool. the torque is measured in inch-pounds. just hand tight, then snug about 1/8 turn. same for the water pump and oil pump bolts. we got tiny bolts threaded into aluminum. all too often i see 'hillbilly torque' ruin parts on these cars that are serviced by old-timers whho are used to torquing coarse threads into iron