MilesFox

if your original WP has bolts, you will need the same style, the short shaft 105mm pump. The one you got, with studs, is the long shaft 110 mm pump, which has a slide on pulley over the studs. the radiator pupe at the water pump, and the o-ring, should somewhat snap into place. if it leaks, shove it in more, or move it around till it seats. Replace the elbow hose with any pre-molded 90 deg bend, and cut to lenght. this elbow goes to the steep water pupe that runs along the top of the motor to the heater core hoses. The other heater hose pipe runs alog the intake to the thermostat. I have seen these steel tubes rust out and leak. the mounting bolt is behind the intake, and may be rusted at the mounting tab. good luck, let us know how it comes.

Sweet! it would look cool if the topper was styled like the outback wagon-baja in disguise. In response to Shawn, a topper might as well be a wagon, but it would be cool to see a high topper that came up and over the roof, blended in with the rake of the windshield, and had standing room inside and encapsulated the roof rails, and have a side profile like the mercedes/dodge sprinters

I t has been doen millions of times. Totally worth it. Easiest to do if you get all your parts fro one car. you need: pedal box flywheel/clutch/and the flywheels longer mounting bolts trans and shifter, comes out of the car together. you will need the trans mount, and its longer body bolts shifter boot conslole plate, snaps in to the at's console driveshaft left foot!

left and right axles will be the same on any subaru

broken magnets. sticky starter is cured with beating of hammer. but beating with hammer ruins the magnets. that, or a bad bushing

you can use a starter out of a 20 year range of subarus. try one from an ea82 or even a legacy. they should work, and if there are any difference, you can mix and match it. it should be a direct swap if you get one from a 5spd

I bet the length of the trans, and the distance of it to the diff would be the same, and the overall wheelbase difference would be determined by the length of the rear control arms and lateral links. just a hunch. you probably have a 99% chance of any part you could use fitting 99% correctly I would use the rear half of the svx driveshaft, and the front half to the donor trans.

i was going to use teflon tape on my brake line fittings, but couldnt find it. I opted for anti seize, and then found my thread tape. D'OH! I don't think its a bad idea. I would try it if i thought of it.

I would like to see your finished project! did you know that an ea82 water pump will fit on an ea81 motor? it does, but the belt alignment will be half a width offsed from the crank. You can retrofit the ea82 anciliaries to the ea81 motors to match the belt alignment to the wp, but the crank will still be slightly offset. Plus you an use the clutch fan for reliability. I mention this because this will allow you to use the ea82 radiator, lower hose, and ea82 water pipe. I had a working example of this with an ea81 in an 88 dl with 3at it's amazing how far you can mix and match a subaru across several generations of design the ea82 pitch bar mount also swaps onto the ea81 block the ea82 flywheel bolts up, but you have to grind part of the bellhousing away at the bottom corners.

you will have more room if you remove the radiator. Otherwise, access the passenger side tensioner from under the car, and the driver side from above the car. you can remove the alt and ac assembly as a unit with lines connected for better room as well, as illustrated in episode 1 or 2 on the youtube series. i recommend you leave the overs off. With no covers, you can do the timing belts again later without having to remove the crank pulley, ac bracket, and you will have access to the WP without any covers to remove, and the WP can be serviced without removing the timing belts. going coverless will allow you do do an off-the-side-of-the-road t-belt repair with only a 3/8 ratchet with deep 12mm, and a 22mm offset box wrench. makes a 2 hour job a 20 min job. Remove the inside covers as well if you take the pulleys off to do the cam seals. Leave the one inside cover to the right of the oil pump behind the idler pulley, as this is the only place the belts are open form the back side. specutation aside, you wont compromise reliability. no covers th hold oil and coolants into the belts. rocks and twigs will nto throw the belt as easily as you think. I have had sticks between the belt and the engine where i parked with the car running. I have had a pebble rolling around on the belt once. don't leave loose shop rags under the hood, as this is the only reported belt failure so far from running coverless.

I know a guy who took a 1973 mercedes to a shop because it quit running. shop figured out it was out of fuel. The owner read the fuel gauge backwards, with the F meaining 'fill' instead of 'full'

maybe a block heater can help with the short run times. I agree with getting a moped. That is a whole nother world of fun outside of subarus. Mopeds are quite capable, with the right mods. I know some die hard folks with 60 mph mopeds with crazy expansion pipes and modified variators. mopeds used to be embarassing to ride, but now they are hip. But even with a hip moped, you run the risk of embarassment by being labeled a hipster.

Please enjoy the video. Caution: video may contains incidental language for you family folks out there..... Washing soda, or baking soda (sodium bicarbonate) for the electrolysis dunk. I used a generic store brand, but arm and hammer is recommended. From there, i used a knotted wire brush for the angle grinder to knock down flakey rust, and a flat screwdriver and chisel to get some of the nastier flakes off, and a wire brush by hand to finish before paint. POR 15 from a quart can, dispensed with a scoop into a baby food jar to paint form the jar. I use the disposable 1" foam brushes for each application. I used the glossy paint, but i would recommend the satin finish for the suspension components. Por 15 is paintable, and should be painted on anything that will be exposed to UV sunlight POR-15® is a high-tech, high performance rust-preventive coating designed for application directly on rusted or seasoned metal surfaces. It dries to an incredible rock-hard, non-porous finish that won't chip, crack, or peel, and it prevents rust from recurring by protecting metal from further exposure to moisture. Use it to coat rusty frames, floor pans, farm equipment, marine equipment, or even a heavily corroded battery tray. POR-15® is sensitive to UV light (sun) and must be topcoated for prolonged exposure to sunlight. Topcoating is not required for areas not exposed to sunlight. Pint............ $29.95 Quart......... $44.95 Gallon........ $143.00 3m rubberized undercoating, and permatex undercoating. The permatex is more cost effective. I used the 3m in the area around the brake lines and suspension mounts, and the permatex above the gas tank. There are 2 formulas of permatex, one is rubberized, and the other is 'paintable' I used the 2nd product also on the intricate areas of the tailig arms and subframe components, and on the faces of the rubber bushings 3M™ Rubberized Undercoating, 08883, 19.7 oz Net Wt, 6 per case 3M Id : 60-4550-5115-5 GTIN(UPC/EAN) : 0 00 51131 08883 2 Aerosol Black Heavy liquid Aerosol Can 24 Fluid Ounce (US) 30 Minute 24 Hours @ 75 Deg F Synthetic Polymer 1 Hour Medium to Coarse Permatex® Heavy Duty Rubberized Undercoating Now with an improved formula! Rubberized for maximum durability; seals, protects and insulates. Excellent professional blend all-purpose coating. Ideal for home or shop use. Level 3* Suggested Applications: Automotive frames, rocker panels and wheels. Other uses include sealing gutters, roofs, drain systems and tree pruning Item #Container SizePackPart #MSDSTDS8183320 oz. aerosol can, 16 oz. net. wt.12135EA *NFPA Fire Code 30B Permatex® Undercoating Protects fenders, frames, fuel tanks, door panels, rocker panels, hoods and firewalls against moisture, road salt and corrosion. Won’t sag or drip. Sound-proofs and insulates. Body shop proven. Level 3* Suggested Applications: Wheel wells, rocker panels, frames and underbody, body repairs, rust holes, tree pruning, driveway cracks, minor roof repairs, post preserver Anti-seize compound. I have a can of industrial grade copper colored stuff. I use it for my build on the bolt threads, captive nuts, bolt shanks, and on the heads of the bolts, and inside of the bushing sleeves. I can't think of the brand i am using, but its in a quart can, and i have it leftover from my job at u-haul. I also used this compound on the brake line fittings. I was going to use teflon thread tape, but couldn't find it right away. sure enough, i found it after using the anti-seize Syl-Glide silicone grease. Normally used on brake caliper slides and boots, i am using this stuff on the plastic clips that mount the brake and fuel lines, and on nipples of the fuel lines for the rubber hoses Sil-Glyde is a silicone based brake lubricant recommended for the entire brake assembly and is compatible with rubber. It is moisture-proof and heat resistant to +600 degrees F, which means it won't burn-off like other brake noise products. Using AGS brake lubricant is one of the keys to eliminating disc brake squeal. naval jelly or equivalent rust dissolver gel (phosphoric acid), for treating areas that cannot be accessed with a wire wheel or brush. I used this product to get at hard to reach rust, and also to apply to bare metal that has been prepped to seal out flash rust, between the treatment and the paint application the next day. $4 online, $7 nearby This rust dissolver has been known and trusted for years. It's ideal for heavily rusted items as it dissolves rust, taking it down to the bare metal. Simply brush on , watch the rust dissolve and then rinse off. Use this product on automobiles, antiques, patio furniture and more. - Easy to use - Helps restore metal items by dissolving rust - Trusted for years - Industrial strength Add to Shopping List Harbor freight welder with .035 wire and tip, and scrap metal from a furnace access panel to patch the rust holes under the car

Probably burned out the bendix gear. if you can try to rebuild it, the motor itself and the reduction gear should be ok, but the bendix part should be replaced. I'm surprised it still worked after all of that. I had a ford truck where the bendix gear got stuck and was turning with the flywheel, and totally ate itself. bump starts from there till i got a new one you may be better off just replacing it with another unit, but if you are all for disassembling and rebuilding, that may be the clever approach

i would say that manually shifting through the gears will let fluids move through all of the valves more frequently, this helping to prevent sticky valve bodies. The 1st gen 4eat has a manual mode that will hod the gear you are in while shifting. I shift manually in in-town driving, because sometimes you need to drop down a gear, even though the kickdown will do it, but you can respond more quickly to downshift to maneuver in traffic (milwaukee's northside ghettos) instead of mashing the pedal and waiting the 3 seconds to downshift to let off the gas pedal once it does. If there was harm in manually shifting an auto trans, why does it let you. Just dont go dropping it into 1st at 45mph. I will drop down into 2nd for engine braking. sometimes i will go down into 1st from speeds within 20mph, say, when the abs wigs out on me and the car wont stop.

does this help? http://www.economysuperstar.com/milesfox/gallery/rust/ I saved these pics from online

shift at 3000 rpms when driving conservatively, and cruise between 2000, and 2500 rpm. shifting too soon and bogging the engine at rpms under 2000 is actually inefficient, due to the short stroke of the engine. its the kind of thing you would get better fuel economy at 70 mph than 60 mph. engine temp sensor could be weak the exhaust leak will affect low speed/rpm performance, and cut fuel economy, and make the car work kharder to get moving steering issue is most likely a wheel bearing. you can jack up the car and wiggle the wheel all you want, but if you feel no play, that is usually true with a bad wheel bearing, due to their design. Changing the wheel bearing is no more work than replacing the axle. The bad bearing can affect mileage having a rolling resistance spare tire goes under the hood.(im sure you know that) a full size does fit. There is actually a captive nut in the back to screw down the spare tire retainer if you wish to keep it in the back

if you want to try to cutdown or hybris a harness, i dont see why not, if you understand schematics and electrical. Some cars came with a dealer installed option, the unit is standalone, and that wold work if you found one at the junkyard.

You would be able to swap the trans adn the diff. The hubs on the svx are 4x114.3 and the forester is 5x100. I'm sorry i havent been under an svx to compare, but im sure it is possible to mx and match parts to fit, but maybe not all of them, some being svx specific. you will have to contend with either chosing a hydraulic clutch like in later models and tubo models, or cable clutch like the earlier legacies and imprezas. I have read articles with svx running with forst gen legacy trans. the forester might be a 4.11 gear, being a lower gear for acceleration, but it will cut you top speed down from 150 mph

If it hepls you any, the black wire on the coil is positive, and the yellow wire is negative, same for the disty. the fuel pump grounds to a common ground, and can be grounded to the body itself. in the original design f the mpfi, the optical disty has a reluctor and 360 holes on a rotating plate, and sends a pulse signal to the ecu. The ecu in turn sends a signal to the ignition amplifier on the coil bracket. from here this transistor breaks a field winding circuit to induce inductance and produce a spark, like electronic breaker points. also, the fuel pump should come on for 2 seconds when the car is first turned on. If you plug in the green test connectors under the dash, the fuel pump will cycle on and off when the key is in the run position. if this works, this verifies the fueol pump is live with the relay, and the challenge will be tripping the relay. IF not, then your fuel pump is not getting volts, or ground

The fuel pump needs to see a crank signal to operate. You can also hardwire it to a toggle, or to acc or even the coil itself. Teh fuel pump can ground to the body. This is a safetey issue, though, that in the event of an accident, the fuel pump will still pump if the motor is not runing(and on fire, upside down, people inside, etc) If you are using a carbureted ea81, then you will need a carb fuel pump. you can buy a generic aftermarket in-line for within 50 bucks at most auto stores. using an mpfi pump with a carb will blow fuel past the needle valve. If the car;s original harness is intact, and the distributor is connected to the coil, then the tachometer should be working, and the fuel pump should work by theory. you are going to have to find a way to trick the mpfi ecu to see a crank signal, since it is expecting a signal from an optical distributor. otherwise, the simplest approach is to tie it in to on with run. Perhaps you can retrofit the fuel pump control from the ea81

tech term would be universal jount, hence the U. I bet this is your problem. The part and design is similar to toyota, pressed and staked in. find a shop that does toyota. I believe even a toyota u-joint cross references as the same part. if you are into a slavage part, all the u-joints are contained in the rear half of the driveshaft. you can replace that from an AT or an MT car of the same platform. to remove the drivehaft, undo the nut side of the bolts, ans the head side is held stationary by the casting of the yokes. take the driveshaft out, and if the noise is gone, that would be your culprit. have it rebuilt or exchange it at a salvage yard good luck

nope. you must use 15's since the turbo has the 2 piston calipers.

no, you will need one for a turbo/mpfi. the short 105mm shaft versus the spfi 110 mm shaft. you can use an spfi water pump, so long as you have the right pulley to go with it, but only if you convert all of the pulleys yo v belts instead of flat belts, and the xt/mpfi motor did not ever have the long water pump, and therefore the right pulley for it would not exist.