MilesFox

I'm afraid the green stuff is copper sludge of some sort. The metal candle holder i used had great surface area, but it does have some sort of rusty brassy plating. I hope i am not poisoning myself. I should use an old saw blade if i had one

Subarus are always a good car to learn how to work on. Get to know this car well, as it is different than most examples of cars. Behold the wonders of 80's subarus!

Doing the electrolysis thing. These are xt6 backing plates. The one on the right is treated. the other one is cooking overnight. The forst one bathed for about 6 hours. The last picture is the one currently soaking

Please search youtube "art of subaru maintenance" #8 and 9. This explains the timing belt and distributor alignments.

That is like looking between your legs and finding out you have a penis.

Be knowledgeable to look for bubbles in the radiator anytime you are looking to buy a soob. Not always the end of the world, but you could call out a liar, or at least drive the offer down over it, and make the investment in repairs/PM

4000 rpm is normal for a 3spd automatic (3AT). a manual transmission would turn 3200-3500 rpms at the smae speeds. The subaru engine has a short crank and large pistons, and is designed to run in the mid rpm range

you could get by just doing the HG.

if the car goes dead entirely, i vote on bad terminal connections.

also check the hose that goes between the thermostat and the top of the block. you should see it just behind the power steering pump. when this leaks, it usually drips off the back of the head or the #3 spark plug

watch these videos: timing belt distributor timing

although the intake is unbolted, if it is still connected electrically, just unplug the fuel pump and grank the engine. this will open the injectors and relieve the pressure since the fuel pump would be disabled. you can just undo the line nder the hood, draping a rag over the fitting, and this will clear the fuel pressure all the way back to the pump. mind you, however, that when you disconnect the line at the fual tank, there may be some unpressurized fuel in the lines. keep a rag handy to soak up the fuel before it spills on the interior.

aside from the legality of this, you will get a sticky film of compressor oil all over the place, which is quite messy.

If you have removed the fuel line from theintake, then you hae already relieved any pressure. Otherwise, my advice is to wrap a rag or paper towel over the fitting while you disconnect it, to soak up any spilled fuel. the access panel will be immediately behind the passenger rear seat back. fold the seat down, and you should be able to lift up the carpet to expose the access panel.

I'll Take driver skill and input over ABS. I know how to make the brakes do what the abs was designed to do, keep control, but do a better job, with no malfunctions to compromise that.

you should do some researching on your trans, since it is not at all what you think it would be, with no transfer case or center diff. have fun. ............................................................................................

I would suspect another coolant hose there would w a water pipe that runs under the engine to a rubber hose behind the head under the turbo. Replace any and all hoses for reliability.

I agree strongly withstuds, since they thread in first, and then the nut takes all the torque, versus a bolt that will bottom out and stretch the threads against its bore. The 'HELP' brand studs have a burr on the thread, and when you thread in the nut and stud as a 'bolt' the nut turns the stud til it bottoms out, and then the nut takes all the torque. It is recommended tou replace the studs with new anyt time the exhaust is serviced, since it is most likely to come out with the nut anyway. Continually torquing and vibrating loose of old or junk hardware will compromise the aluminum treads. New hardware will insure a proper install every time. If the original stud stays in the head, this is ok. Clean the threads and use a new nut if you wish.

This is good advice, if you want to do work on the engine on a stand. Iprefer to have the room to install the trans form above the car, instead of my back under the car. pull the trans up n to the crossmember, bolt up the rear of it, install the axles, drop in the motor. too easy.

take off the bottom of your front fender and treat the inside, as dirt and leaves will accumulate behind there. Remove the inner fender liner and get behind the fender arch lip as well. Get the section of rocker sill at the bottom of the rear wheel arch. Remove the mudflaps and treat that, as well ans the inside of the fender lip. Remove the rear shock and treat the mount and seal it up. Rust can form between the shock mount and the fender well and rot from the inside out. look for rust that will form around the rear hatch window, and along the windshiled trim. anywhere you can keep dirt and leaves from accumulating will help prevent rust. Under the car, treat where the floor boards meet the bottom of the rear seat, just before all the brake and fuel lines. There is a seam weld that can start to rust out.

any 85/86 gl/gl-10 wagon coupe, sedn will be the same style, any 88-89 will fit the same as well, different orange lens, though, and 90-94 loyales will also fit. You have 10 years of car in any configuration that will fit the same.

Pull the motor. makes trans removal easier. Make sure the torque converter stays withthe trans. You have the opportunity to take care of the rear breather plate if you remove the motor. If you remove the motor, you will have wiggle room to remove the axles without having to disassemble the control arm or ball joints

just to make note, ea81 and ea82 hubs fit the same

That piece is left on as it is the only place where the belt is exposed on the back side. I usually leave that piece in.

If you have the complete ea82 tubeframe, then yes, make a lift block that adapts it. What i am saying if you just bolt in ea82 trailing arms to the ea81 subframe, they are in the same place. You will have to adapt the ea82 coilovers by modifying the mount in the wheel well (see McBrat's red brat for an example of the coilover mount mod.) ea81 and ea82 trailing ars are dimentionally similar, from the pivot bolt to the backing plate, width wise. ea82's are no wider than ea81's